Deception Build
 

Well the work bench is clean. I just finished up the Miles Reed Fun Fly this morning. I builds just like any Bridi kit. Glue four blocks together and carve an airplane. I have the wing and stab sheeting edged and glued. I laid out the fin/rudder parts and have a few fit issues which are easy fixes. I am not using any CA as it is to hard to plane, carve or sand.

RE: Deception Build
 

Very tastefully done colors on the "Fun Fly". Can't wait to see what do do with the Deception.

-Robert

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Deleted- double post.

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I'm going to try to follow this scheme from my old Tiporare. It is Red, White and Blue of course.

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I FOUND IT. BP Jr.

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Hey Ed,

nice thread start. Look forward to following. You must have got my PM... :D

I wonder what was forbidden in that previous Tipo/Deception thread?

David.

RE: Deception Build
 

I don't know. Maybe because I started a build thread or said the "E" word. Anyhow, the skins are done and on the cores in the husks for overnight cure. I used 30 minute finishing resin w/ milled fibers. I fixed the gaps on the rudder and fin and are also setting overnight.

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Cool.

Do you do all the retract, aileron servo stuff after applying the skins? Everyone has their unique methods which makes the CPF just great!

David.

RE: Deception Build
 

Yes, I'll put both aileron servos in the center section and use the torque tubes. I have done this on all my pattern birds. To me it just looks nice and neat. I'll also post on how I do my retract plate install.

RE: Deception Build
 

I did that on a little electric Tipo and the setup worked nicely. Especially good if the gear gets held up!

What was the problem with the fin/rudder. I'll have to watch for that in my kit.

Nice birds all the Bridi kits but not the best in QC or wood stock.

David.

RE: Deception Build
 

Zoom in on the rudder/fin assy. I added 1/16 to the rudder to bring the front half to even. I add a piece of 1/16 and 3/32 to the fin to fill that gap. Will be shaping it in the morning. Also they are not the same thickness some fat 1/2".

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See better what you mean. Hadn't realized you had things lined up per plan.

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Here is an update. The fin and rudder are shaped and ready for hinging. Not sure if I'm going w/ live hinge, Klett lg. hinges or Robart hinge points. The wings and stab are sheeted, dihedral has been sanded in the wings. I will cap the wing tonight and the stab left as is for now per plan. You use the stab core as a layout for the opening in the fuse.. And yes, I have three workbenches to build on. The two against the walls are attached to the wall and are very firm, flat and straight.

RE: Deception Build
 

Nice work.

I never did understand Jim's note on the stab for the fuse side cutout. I mean, the stab is symmetric about the root - zero dihedral except for taper on either side. The cutout needs to be slightly smaller than the size of the capped stab but not much. Certainly not the dimensions of the sheeted core without the LE/TE's attached. In any case, there is also the FG cloth to take into account if so desired. I can't recall if Jim suggests something for that joint. I used glass cloth to the fuse sides on the stab and to the fairings on the wing.

I guess a cut is a cut.

Ed, your B&D's must be pneumatic, right? If not, I need to see how you do this.

David.

RE: Deception Build
 

Dave
You glass the center section w/ 3 oz. glass. I will glass the whole stab w/ .6 oz. before it put it in. This way all I have to do is make a fillet. The B&D's are air driven. I'll put in Robart air restrictors to keep them from slapping up and down.

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Right,

I was trying to address the delayed stab finishing recommendation. I saw no need for it nor did it make much sense in my build.

Sounds like we'll have a fully painted Deception - great!

David.

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Nice to see another DECEPTION being built.

What a great plane, Flew my 2 with Black head SE Rossi’s back in the day.

You will definitely enjoy this plane, I did. Will be following your build.

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Thanks Paul
I have the LE and TE capped. I like the GP glue I'm using. I spread a light coat on both the caps and wing. I had to move one a little and it didn't want to pull apart after 2 minutes. I also included a few shots of my Bob Smith T2A I'm finishing up. I lost intrest in it a while ago as I was in the rubbing out phase. It will have a Enya .60 Chrome Mk IV AAC w/ the 10mm carb in the nose.
Ed

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Back to it. Wings are capped and tips glued in place.
Dave, this is how I mount my gear in foam wings. I will cap the plate with 3/32" balsa to keep the gear flush w/ the bottom of the wing. The wing is sheeted with 1/16" balsa. It was actually some pretty light stuff. but the tips and fuse. top block is another story. May have to get out the 40 grit.

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Ed,

Moving along nicely, I must say.

All you guys that take the time to do a build thread need to be commended.

I can’t fathom doing a build with the picture taking and commentary that you guys do.

Maybee someday if my computer skills get better I’ll give it a shot.

I have to comment on the T2A, just superb. Nice Job.

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Ed,

nice and classic. I was going to say, just by looking at the wings, you can see that the wood is pretty good. A quick browse of my kit revealed some pretty scary pieces of wood! I'll probably make use of them as lead weights for builds... :)

Both of my Tipo kits had some rock hard ailerons (3 of 4) also heavy as lead. In one of them, the left aileron weighed twice as much as the right! I plan to drill them out so I used them anyway and at least they should be less warp prone.

At first I thought you had mechanical B&D's and I was really curious to see how you would get those into a skinned wing - still doable but a lot harder. Do you use balsa for the wells or ply? I saw someone use those bendable straws for kids as a conduit for the lines - it was pretty cool actually. Tiny hole entering the well. But I guess running the lines parallel and above the wells might be even more elegant.

Maybe you can make some canoes out of the tips once they are carved to shape. Or drill them out from the bottom - good way to add tip weight when balancing.

I guess I'm seeing my Deception being built vacariosly through your thread! Sorry.

Keep up the nice work.

David.

RE: Deception Build
 

Well, I got that pesky work week out of the way. The tips are on and rough shaped until I fit the ailerons. They didn't weigh that much after I pre trimed them. This is how I make ply LG mounts for foam wings. The dowels fit into pockets and the plate is epoxied in. I will cover it over w/ 3/32" to make the gear flush with the skins. I have been thinking af putting anhedral in the stab after reading the "Superception Thread". I know the Tipo liked it for knife edge. I can add the 1/4" per side with larger fillets for the fin.

RE: Deception Build
 

Ed,

Superception mods would be very interesting. My first reaction to the thought of an anhedral stab (aside from Jim saying "don't do it!" in his original article - he must have later...), was the tolerance for up elevator if keeping the rudder/elevator relationship per plans. With anhedral, the inner elevators would likely interfere with the rudder unless they were opened up in typical pattern fashion (cut at an angle).

Of course, a full height rudder would also be an option (again, despite Jim saying not a "good idea") along with the fuse faired fin LE. It seems to me that a simple built up "Tipo like" fin (3/32" or 1/8" angled sides) would be easier and cleaner than building up with heavy fillets on a slab fin but both are viable I suppose.

I guess the issue with anhedral stabs is cross-wind.

Great work!

David.

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The easier mod would be the stab and elevators. I can clip the inside edge like the Tipo. and leave the fin alone. Plus a anhedral stab does have a "look at me" effect at the field. I almost took the anhedral OUT of my third Tipo to see what the effects would be. As for cross winds, we have them a lot at our field and are well versed on how to correct for them. Winds East or West are rare for us. They always seem to be a quartering type. We fly from a full scale airport so we can adjust our position in or out a little.

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I look forward to seeing the changes.

David.

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The wheel wells are finished. Here is a shot of the tricks for a round wheel well. For something so minor, they seem to take forever to make. I have the torque tubes in place and I am ready to fit the ailerons. I going to go with Robart hinge points for this bird. I hope to have the wing joined and center glassed by Sunday night. I'm ready to start the fuselage.

RE: Deception Build
 

Here is the wing joined, ailerons fitted, sanded and hinged. The leading edge, tips and whole wing sanded. The bolt hold down dowels installed. The center section glassed w/ 8 oz. cloth. I made it by my deadline. Yesterday we celebrated my Dad's ( Bill P. in the post) 70th birthday. He taught me everything I know.

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Nice job with this thread "edp".

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba

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Thanks Rusty, a plus about doing a thread is that my shop stays a lot cleaner. I vacuum up before I shoot pics.

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FYI, I am driving to OH just to take your Kraft wheels when you aren't looking.....
Looking good!

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Hey Jeff,
Your not the only one who is after my wheels. I have a box full of them plus collars and screws. I just find them at swap shops and my Dad had a few.
I have the firewall creatively laid out for the nose gear mount. I had to recess the blind nuts. I have F3 cut out and the fuse sides are marked and ready to go.

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I have the four piece fuse. sides made up. I laid out for the stab. cutouts. The 1/2" and 3/8" triangle stock and 1/16" plywood wing hold down doublers are in place. I finished drilling all the holes needed in F1 and had to cut the angles in F2 to fit the triangle stock on the top. Top blocks are glued together and will be ready for the next step.

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Bulkheads are in and set. There were some minor fit problems but are easily fixed. You are better off to fit the fuse. sides then add the bulkheads. The sides and top blocks are two diffrent lengths. I popped the bulkheads loose to reposition. I used the aft portion as my zero starting point and worked forward as per the instructions. Not a big deal just 1/8" at F3 and 1/4" at F1. F2 just slides right in dead on square to the 1/16" ply plates.

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This is why they call it building instead of assembly. Easy fix.

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Ed,

Jim's first published MAN plan is correct and shows the belly pan/fuse junction formers as they should be. However, the Bridi plan contains an error and evidently the fuse sides are cut accordingly (too long in the wing saddle). I scratched from the MAN plan so I didn't run into this but I know that Mitch did. Basically the Bridi fuse sides are incorrect.

Which is a good reminder because when I build from my kit, I'll be sure to make new fuse sides and probably drop the stock from 3/16" to 1/8". I guess that will require wider formers too but a 1/4" ply FW should be fine especially if reinforced.

David.

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Well I'm at that point, do I put in the anhedral or not. Part of me says stay with tradition and anothers says don't follow the herd. I'm not going to mess with the fin as it is already shaped. "What say you?"

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Edp - Great build. Just got on, looked at everything. You and Klxmaster, doweling the plate for the gear to set it, I never did that, but makes sense to transfer the load. I will start using that method. Kraft wheels, the best, thought I had them all. The price's they are fetching on the bay nowaday's, the secret is out, or more guy's are seeing how good they are.

Is this paint or film ?

Crank

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You can NEVER have enough Kraft wheels. I trade the 1-1/2" ones for the size I need. This is going to be all paint w/ Klass Kote. Getting ready to glass the stab before I put it in. I'm staying with tradition and going flat.

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Good choice... I'm staying flat with my Deception stab as well. Mine is being built from MAN plans but with a built-up wing and stab. Wing halves almost ready to join... maybe tomorrow.

Greg

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Greg,

are you building from the built-up CAD plan that DOug (Patternguy) put together? It's a nice plan.

I've tried to reach him as I wanted to order one but he seems to be MIA. But maybe AK has the templates? Doug asked me to contact him for purchase but I haven't tried yet.

Do you have any news?

BTW, aside from the mistake in the Bridi plans at the fuse/wing TE junction, the MAN and Bridi plans are identical.

David.