covering help - ww1 camoflage
#1
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covering help - ww1 camoflage
I decided to get back into the hobby, and I picked a covering scheme I can't find. I've used monokote/econokote all my life, so finding this type of scheme has me stumped.
this pic is from a rendering of luther von richthofen's fokker, jasta 11. the yellow seems easy enough, but not the green/brown/white camo on the wings and fuse
has anyone every seen a fabric or film like this? i thought i had found it in oracote, or something like that. ended up being a optical illusion, as the rolls of film looked like what I was looking for - hard to explain here.
I think i need to go old school silk/dope, or coverite, white, and just spray the colors I want.
not sure where to put this thread - apologies.
thanks in advance,
Chris
this pic is from a rendering of luther von richthofen's fokker, jasta 11. the yellow seems easy enough, but not the green/brown/white camo on the wings and fuse
has anyone every seen a fabric or film like this? i thought i had found it in oracote, or something like that. ended up being a optical illusion, as the rolls of film looked like what I was looking for - hard to explain here.
I think i need to go old school silk/dope, or coverite, white, and just spray the colors I want.
not sure where to put this thread - apologies.
thanks in advance,
Chris
#2
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Measnes, La Creuse, France.
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If it's anyhelp, I used oil-based glaze, sometimes called "scumble glaze," on Linen Solartex to simulate the streaked appearence on my Flair Baronette which I finished in the colours of Hans Weiss, one of von Richtofen's flight leaders . Polyvine Traditional Oil Scumble I'm sure there are American suppliers as well.
With this product you mix the glaze with white oil-based (solvent-based) eggshell paint, tint with a brown oil-based paint which you can buy from shops supplying artists' materials, then thin with white spirit or turpentine to the consistency of milk. Apply thinly to the wing surface and brush out using a cheap brush. Put the odd bit of neat artists' colour on the wing to simulate the darker sections of the streaking. The object is to remove most of the glazing. In the decorator's trade this technique is known as "dragging." I believe that there is a water-based glaze these days but I've never used it.
I'm sure you'll find something on YouTube to help you out.
With this product you mix the glaze with white oil-based (solvent-based) eggshell paint, tint with a brown oil-based paint which you can buy from shops supplying artists' materials, then thin with white spirit or turpentine to the consistency of milk. Apply thinly to the wing surface and brush out using a cheap brush. Put the odd bit of neat artists' colour on the wing to simulate the darker sections of the streaking. The object is to remove most of the glazing. In the decorator's trade this technique is known as "dragging." I believe that there is a water-based glaze these days but I've never used it.
I'm sure you'll find something on YouTube to help you out.
#4
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Chris, do you have the DR-1 kit, what size it? The best covering for WW I airplanes is Solartex, but you quit making it this month. Hopefully there is a German company that has something similar and will sell it in the US.
For now, there is the old way of Sig Kover-all and a new similar product (Planetex) from BALSA USA. These will work well but more time consuming and must be painted. Youtube has videos that shows you how to use Planetex product. Just type in how to use planetex covering. The painting of the German Lozenge scheme is not that hard at all. I made my stencils (5) and used an airbrush and Latrex paint from Lowes home improvement store. You can see how I did it on my build on RC Scale Builder web site. This is how you find it: rcscalebuilder.com , forums, KIts, Balsa USA section, page 3, then open "Building the BUSA Fokker D-VII". You can read through the build or go to page 19 that is where I start the Lozenge painting. My Fokker D-VII turned out very well.
Here is a couple pictures
For now, there is the old way of Sig Kover-all and a new similar product (Planetex) from BALSA USA. These will work well but more time consuming and must be painted. Youtube has videos that shows you how to use Planetex product. Just type in how to use planetex covering. The painting of the German Lozenge scheme is not that hard at all. I made my stencils (5) and used an airbrush and Latrex paint from Lowes home improvement store. You can see how I did it on my build on RC Scale Builder web site. This is how you find it: rcscalebuilder.com , forums, KIts, Balsa USA section, page 3, then open "Building the BUSA Fokker D-VII". You can read through the build or go to page 19 that is where I start the Lozenge painting. My Fokker D-VII turned out very well.
Here is a couple pictures
#5
Join Date: Apr 2008
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The triplanes were never finished in printed lozenge fabric. The prototype Fokker DVIIs were painted in a streaked finish similar to the Dr1s. Some of the Fokker DVIIs left the factory with streaked fuselages and lozenge covered wings and tailplanes.
PS. If using scumble glaze to simulate the DR1's finish, allow the glaze to dry thoroughly over two or three days then give it a coat or two some kind of fuel proofer. I've found that a couple of coats of ordinary household varnish will work. Scumble glaze is very soft and needs to be protected. When I worked as a decorator we had to protect the glaze even on walls, with matt varnish. Glow fuel will certainly attack it.
PS. If using scumble glaze to simulate the DR1's finish, allow the glaze to dry thoroughly over two or three days then give it a coat or two some kind of fuel proofer. I've found that a couple of coats of ordinary household varnish will work. Scumble glaze is very soft and needs to be protected. When I worked as a decorator we had to protect the glaze even on walls, with matt varnish. Glow fuel will certainly attack it.
Last edited by Telemaster Sales UK; 02-22-2018 at 10:32 PM.