hoverferry-2006

I must be an idiot...I am building an RC hovercraft, and am getting to the point where I need to solder the wires however, I haven't done any soldering before, so require some advise - what do you do.

Thanks

Hoverferry-2006 <- Soldering idiot!!!

saleens7

i would buy a soldering gun (just a warning, do NOT get the coldheat one, it sucks) and some rosin-core (or better yet silver solder) solder. Get some scrap wire and practice soldering on that till you get a hang of it....

this might help also if you are using deans plugs on it..

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/info.php

(go to "video on how to solder deans plugs)

Deadeye

I like a 40 watt soldering iron, but a 25 will do the trick. First I strip both wires 1/4 inch or so, dip them in flux paste, tin the ends, then simply apply heat when the two ends touch. Hold it still for a second or too until it re-soldifies, and you are done. Heat shrink or tape the exposed wire.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Soldering gun is good, but an iron is more versatile, I think. Get one at least 40 watts, but if you get one around 60-100 watts, you can use it for soldering up heavy stuff like piano wire as well as electrical stuff. Get one with interchangeable tips; you want a pointed one for electrical wire. You have to flux the wire to clean it, or if you strip new, clean insulated wire, you can use rosin core solder (the rosin is the flux). It will flux the connection as the solder melts into the wire. You can "tin" the ends, like Deadeye says, which simply means heating the wire end by holding the iron to it, and flowing solder into the strands of the wire. I like to twist the wire ends together first and heat the connection, and apply the solder into the twisted wire. Hold the iron against the wire so the wire gets hot, then feed the solder to the wire; when it gets hot enough, the solder will liquefy and flow into the twisted strands. You want the wire fully coated, but not globbed.. Wrap with electrical tape or use a heat shrink tube over the connection to insulate it.

donkey doctor

Hello; That is good soldering advice. I just came in from soldering a rust leak on the fuel tank of my plane hauler *87 VW van), so I have recent experience. I learned a neat trick for this problem; load up a penny with solder on one side and let it cool while you scrape and brush the rusty hole. Put the pennt over the hole, and apply gun until the solder runs out from under the penny. You're done, No need for a torch and all the danger that brings with it.

As a mechanic, I made mostly crimp on butt connections, but I wondered how to make a connection that was tidy and easy to hide with heat shrink tubing. I had to wire new two-pronged connectors onto a new lipo 2100 pack, I tinned the tow stripped wire ends, then just layed them side by side on the gun until I saw the solder melting, let go of the trigger watch it harden and cool. Makes a solid joint. The solder completely hides the individual wires. I should have mentioned that I use a waxy soldering flux, that makes the solder flow and adhere

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I have four irons, one is 40 watts, two are 80 watts, and one is 120 watts. I used to do quite a bit of leaded stained glass and copper foiled stained glass, and getting a long, smooth bead without having the lead melt through took practice. I also have a rheostat that I can plug my irons into, it allows me to fine tune the heat for different types of solder. Leaded glass took a 60-40 solder, which melted at a lower temp and was less a risk to melt the lead. For copper foil I used 50-50 or 35-65 which took higher temps to melt, but was harder when solid.

I haven't done a single piece since I started flying. HEY! Maybe I can make a stained glass airplane. Think of the sound it would make crashing into the concrete runway

Deadeye

Get some video too, Ken! And make sure it's a sunny day. [8D]

jettstarblue

I always twist the wire together, then heat the wire, touch the solder to the wire and as soon as it flows in remove the heat (iron or gun, I prefer the iron) and a second later remove the solder.

I vote is for liquid electricians tape, followed up by heat shrink tubing.

Also, those things with a small magnifying glass and two clips on adjustable arms make things very easy.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Darn right, I've got one of those, makes a great "third hand". What DO you call them?

Gilhooley?

Thingamabob?

Doohickey?

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

read this article.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=172

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

What I have is a pushrod wire with an alligator clip on one end and the other end is glued into a block of wood.

bend it however you need it, and hold one wire with it

Bigshark

I did exactly the same thing. Cheaper and better than store bought.

As to iron or gun, if you're planning on doing battery packs or really short leads, I'd recommend an iron.....

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

If you are new to soldering the best advice I can give is to have everything clean. Next in order to transfer heat from either a gun tip or an iron - "TIN" the tip with solder. The liquid solder will transfer the heat efficiently. If your "TIN" gets looking dull refresh it with more solder and wipe the excess off. There should always be a slight mound of liquid solder on the irons tip. Practice and you'll soon get the hang of it.
John