skaha

I have made a plug for a 1/6 scale Beaver, 8' span, to be on Commander floats, how many layers of cloth and what weight should I be using after the initial gel coat and 3/4 oz layer, also where should I be building up layers for strength, this is my first fuselage so would appreciate all suggestions.
Thank you.

bear 57

Skaha, just got back home from laying up a 9' Beaver. We are not using gel coat. We are using 2 0z cloth, followed by two layers of 6 oz cloth. We put an extra peice of cloth in the windshield area to allow some "meat" for screwing in the windsheild moulding etc.
We are laying in the 2 oz cloth, letting it set up and then doing the two layers of 6 oz, usually the next day. We do the joining on the third day. It is done this way only because we are having to travel about 4 miles to do the work and we don't want to wait around for the resin to become tacky. This is by no means the only way, but it works for me.
Hope this helps.

Ed Smith

Skaha,

You say you have just made the plug. Is your question about making the molds?

Ed S

skaha

Thanks for the help bear 57, that is exactly the info I was looking for. What do you think of the idea of marking out rivet patterns in the mold then using a dremel with a small round bit to grind a small indent, this would then come out on the part in the form of raised rivets ?

skaha

Ed, sorry I was not clear, my question was about the finished part, I think I have my answer from bear 57. Thanks for the reply.

bear 57

Skaha, the rivets would be a nice touch but putting them on the mold makes it a lot more difficult to pull the fuse from the mold. There will be increased friction involved especially on the top and bottom where you have to pull against the rivets. I would not recommend doing it this way. Pull a smooth fuse and add rivets later with a fish tank pump, hypo syringe and white glue. You can do the whole fuse in an evening.
I would recommend taking one fuse cutting all the doors and windows, lay it back into the mold and mark the doors and windows lightly into the mold and you don't have to remark each fuse for window and door cutouts. the mold can be marked (carefully) with an awl or some other sharp object.
Hope this helps.

skaha

Thanks bear 57 you are right about the rivets, after I posted the question, I realized the problem. Appreciate the help.

skaha

Bear 57 you have got my curiosity going on the rivet process, could you elaborate on the aquarium pump etc method. I have used a plastic syringe type applicator but the pump is new to me.
Thanks
p/s based on your location, I probably have seen you at the Shuswap meet.

bear 57

Skaha, I Sent you a PM.