Changing the color of a GP Little Toni
09-25-2007, 12:34 PM
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Changing the color of a GP Little Toni
I like the looks and the way the GP Little Toni flies. One thing I dont like about it is the color. The color red they use messed with my eyes and I lose orientation of the plane. I am wondering how big of a deal it would be to change the color of the red fiberglass pieces. The fuse, wheel pants, cowling, and landing gear would all need to be done. Everything else would just need to be recovered. I would like to keep the white stripe on the plane and do everything else in yellow monokote. I see that they also have Lustrekote that is suppose to match monokote, not sure how well that will work though. The covering wont be that bad, I am just curious how bad the fiberglass is going to be.
09-25-2007, 07:31 PM
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RE: Changing the color of a GP Little Toni
Chris:
Should be no big deal to paint as long as you use the right stuff and prep it correctly. Gotta get ALL that oil off everything. Wash it in dish soap several times prior to sanding and again before paint application, inside and out. Sand glaze off with 400 wet paper. Suggest you find some "Dupli-color acrylic-enamel" in rattle can form at "Pep Boys" or other chain stores. Was shocked at the quality of job and paint you can do wih this stuff if you have just a litte tallent. Is fuel proof, nice colors. This paint is way above the monokote paint, finish and ease of use, and best, not expensive at all. Had a Tony with Jett 90L, good sport plane, could even hover mine, unfortunately way to much drag to scoot over 120 or so, but so are all the others, shoestring, mustang, alley cat etc. But they fly well for sport as the design intends. ENJOY
Should be no big deal to paint as long as you use the right stuff and prep it correctly. Gotta get ALL that oil off everything. Wash it in dish soap several times prior to sanding and again before paint application, inside and out. Sand glaze off with 400 wet paper. Suggest you find some "Dupli-color acrylic-enamel" in rattle can form at "Pep Boys" or other chain stores. Was shocked at the quality of job and paint you can do wih this stuff if you have just a litte tallent. Is fuel proof, nice colors. This paint is way above the monokote paint, finish and ease of use, and best, not expensive at all. Had a Tony with Jett 90L, good sport plane, could even hover mine, unfortunately way to much drag to scoot over 120 or so, but so are all the others, shoestring, mustang, alley cat etc. But they fly well for sport as the design intends. ENJOY
09-25-2007, 07:49 PM
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RE: Changing the color of a GP Little Toni
Thanks for all the info. You said wet sand with 400 grit to get the glaze off. I dont need to get all the paint off then?
How well does the duplicolor match up with the monokote? And what about primer, will any primer out there work? If i go through with this mission, its going to be a new Little Toni I purchase, dont know if that will make it any easier or not.
How well does the duplicolor match up with the monokote? And what about primer, will any primer out there work? If i go through with this mission, its going to be a new Little Toni I purchase, dont know if that will make it any easier or not.
09-26-2007, 12:44 AM
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RE: Changing the color of a GP Little Toni
Chris:
Sure, if its new, there is no oil problem other than the release mould wax, or whatever they use. Still wash it down with dish soap. The finish on the fuse is paint in mold just about like epoxie paint. You still have to sand the gloss off it for he new paint to stick, you do not want to sand down to the fiberglass cloth, it will show. Try to take off about the same as you will add, you can only guess. Main thing about painting is to get a good color without lots of heav coats. Follow instructions on the can for best results. A light mist first coat per can instrctions. Pick your paint color from the color of the top of the rattle cans, and invenst you research $5.00 in a can & paint some cardboard or anything to get the general color. If you have a problem getting real close with the monocote colors, go to a shop that carries Ultracoat, and a color chart. There are a bunch of ultra-coat colors, far more than monokote. Don't shy away from ultra-coat, I now perfer it with around 30 years of experience with this stuff. Monocoat down graded their quality a number of years ago, and has not been as good as the ultra coat since. Ultra sticks better at lower temp. and shrinks much better, and lalys out easier. Too much heat can get you into trouble with the lines of your trim moving in from shrinking. Quality of a finish job is more a product of time than outright skill IMHO. I simply have no artistic ability, yet am known as King Monocoat in the club. Infamous for covering a P-51 fuse with one sheet, one seam on the bottom. Took me almost a week, got lucky, will never do it again.
Sure, if its new, there is no oil problem other than the release mould wax, or whatever they use. Still wash it down with dish soap. The finish on the fuse is paint in mold just about like epoxie paint. You still have to sand the gloss off it for he new paint to stick, you do not want to sand down to the fiberglass cloth, it will show. Try to take off about the same as you will add, you can only guess. Main thing about painting is to get a good color without lots of heav coats. Follow instructions on the can for best results. A light mist first coat per can instrctions. Pick your paint color from the color of the top of the rattle cans, and invenst you research $5.00 in a can & paint some cardboard or anything to get the general color. If you have a problem getting real close with the monocote colors, go to a shop that carries Ultracoat, and a color chart. There are a bunch of ultra-coat colors, far more than monokote. Don't shy away from ultra-coat, I now perfer it with around 30 years of experience with this stuff. Monocoat down graded their quality a number of years ago, and has not been as good as the ultra coat since. Ultra sticks better at lower temp. and shrinks much better, and lalys out easier. Too much heat can get you into trouble with the lines of your trim moving in from shrinking. Quality of a finish job is more a product of time than outright skill IMHO. I simply have no artistic ability, yet am known as King Monocoat in the club. Infamous for covering a P-51 fuse with one sheet, one seam on the bottom. Took me almost a week, got lucky, will never do it again.
09-26-2007, 01:12 AM
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RE: Changing the color of a GP Little Toni
I have been reading about ultracote being easier to apply and all around better than monokote. I want to do the Toni yellow, as of now will probably go ahead and use ultracote. I also read that the ultracote paint from Hangar 9 is better than topflites lustrekote but cant find the paint anywhere, not even on Hangar 9s website. You still recomend I go with the Duplicolor from pepboys? I hope I am not biting off more than I can chew with this project. Thanks
09-26-2007, 01:27 AM
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RE: Changing the color of a GP Little Toni
Chris: Yes, stay with the Dupla-color be sure to get the acrylic enamel. The paint can spray bar is much better in application, and quality of the paint is much better also. You will enjoy this stuff, its quite good. I have good auto spray equipment, but will stay with this stuff as a nice paint job will be $10-15.00 against $100-150 for automotive paint. Oh, the clear coat stuff is also good, but not required. Use the clear if you want something very nice after color sanding. Give us a pick when done!!!
