adding brackets to a metal tank
#1
Thread Starter

I have two metal tanks to put brackets on and a question, can epoxy hold the brackets or do they have to be soldered on? I only have a soldering pencil and am not sure it will make enough heat.
#3

Hi, SN,
Depending on the model, you might get away with an alternative.
If the model(s) are profiles, you could get away with wire hooks through the body and rubber bands. Just bend an open rectangle with legs long enough to go through from inside to outside, and bend hooks. Rubber band-lash the tank(s) on. A problem - your tanks might need to shift up or down as much as a quarter inch to find where the engine runs the same both ways. (Most of us didn't know about this, back in the '50s, and cussed at the engines for not running right.... Didn't use pressure, except for Combat. That was mostly pen bladders or even pacifiers (!) and gave a lot of pressure - which was a problem of its own.)
Could make the wires wider apart than the tank, and use scrap wood shims to vary the height.
Tanks rubber banded on didn't seem to suffer as much from engine vibration as hard-mounted tanks, btw.
Otherwise, soldering tabs on does work. If you need to shift the tank up or down, you might be able to file the tab's slots a bit in the direction you want. (If it goes richer inverted than upright, then the tank is relatively too low. I.e., it's a bit lean upright, fuel must be drawn "uphill", and flipping over to inverted locates the tank "high" so fuel pours "downhill" to the NVA.)
LUCK, and enjoy!!
\LOU
Depending on the model, you might get away with an alternative.
If the model(s) are profiles, you could get away with wire hooks through the body and rubber bands. Just bend an open rectangle with legs long enough to go through from inside to outside, and bend hooks. Rubber band-lash the tank(s) on. A problem - your tanks might need to shift up or down as much as a quarter inch to find where the engine runs the same both ways. (Most of us didn't know about this, back in the '50s, and cussed at the engines for not running right.... Didn't use pressure, except for Combat. That was mostly pen bladders or even pacifiers (!) and gave a lot of pressure - which was a problem of its own.)
Could make the wires wider apart than the tank, and use scrap wood shims to vary the height.
Tanks rubber banded on didn't seem to suffer as much from engine vibration as hard-mounted tanks, btw.
Otherwise, soldering tabs on does work. If you need to shift the tank up or down, you might be able to file the tab's slots a bit in the direction you want. (If it goes richer inverted than upright, then the tank is relatively too low. I.e., it's a bit lean upright, fuel must be drawn "uphill", and flipping over to inverted locates the tank "high" so fuel pours "downhill" to the NVA.)
LUCK, and enjoy!!
\LOU
#4

My Feedback: (2)
The rubber band method is the classic way of attaching the tank, but I have used the method shown in these photos for some years with great success. Holes are drilled through the fuselage and servo screw bushings are inserted on the left side. Aviation safety wire holds the tank in place. The tank should not be seated directly on the fuselage, but rest on dense foam rubber or inner tube.
#5
Senior Member
I’ve been going thru some posts and I found this old post on soldering Fuel tanks. And attaching tank to a profile U Control behind the engine. I have found vibration is a big concern. And you can control some of that with a rubber pad between the tank and the mount surface. I been using brass strips covered in heat shrink and blind nuts with machine screws. A previous post recommended Aircraft safety wire. In a flying site repair I used plastic ty raps and it saved the day. It’s always great to do a field repair. And get to fly. Guys keep them lines tite! AJ
#6
Senior Member
Hey Straight Nickle I was wondering what you ended up doing? Don’t leave us in suspense! Did you soldier ? Or Epoxy. I know JB weld works great for jobs like that. Hope it all worked out for ya. Ya been flyin? Keep them lines straight and tight, AJ



