Weight Box Suggestions
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: SHARPSBURG,
KY
Hello all
I am looking for suggestions on how to build a weight box that is accessible from outside the wing. Jim Thomerson gave me a very good post on my adjustable leadouts and they worked out excellent. Now I am ready to build a weight box. Jim, if you read this, I liked your pill bottle installation but you did mention that next time you would build a weight box. Do you cut a hole in the outside lite ply and close it back up with a small piece of ply with two screws in it? ( after building a wooden box inside the wing next to the last rib) So why don't you guys tell me how YOU do it.
RWCherry
Sharpsburg KY
I am looking for suggestions on how to build a weight box that is accessible from outside the wing. Jim Thomerson gave me a very good post on my adjustable leadouts and they worked out excellent. Now I am ready to build a weight box. Jim, if you read this, I liked your pill bottle installation but you did mention that next time you would build a weight box. Do you cut a hole in the outside lite ply and close it back up with a small piece of ply with two screws in it? ( after building a wooden box inside the wing next to the last rib) So why don't you guys tell me how YOU do it.
RWCherry
Sharpsburg KY
#2

RWCherry,
Here is a basic setup. It is on the underside of a Ringmaster at the LE and tip rib. Of course if it is a competition plane you would want to blend it in better. It is a simple box with a 1/16" lip and balsa cover, blended to airfoil and held on with a nylon bolt.
George
Here is a basic setup. It is on the underside of a Ringmaster at the LE and tip rib. Of course if it is a competition plane you would want to blend it in better. It is a simple box with a 1/16" lip and balsa cover, blended to airfoil and held on with a nylon bolt.
George
#3
Here's how I've done it on mine. I carve the box straight through the tip then blank off the inner side with 1/8" ply which is drilled so the weight screw cuts its own thread. Then file the tapered seat and make a tapered plug. All this is done with the tip rough sanded almost to the final shape. Then tighten the plug in place and finish shaping the tip. One thing you don't want is loose bits of lead floating around inside
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: SHARPSBURG,
KY
Thanks guys,
My Twister has flat end plates and I can make a cover to conceal the opening I'll make to get to a box built inside the wing. Probably use buttonhead bolts, 6-32, to make it "aerodynamic", LOL. I appreciate the photos, they helped a lot.
My Twister has flat end plates and I can make a cover to conceal the opening I'll make to get to a box built inside the wing. Probably use buttonhead bolts, 6-32, to make it "aerodynamic", LOL. I appreciate the photos, they helped a lot.
#5
Senior Member
On the second twister I built, I installed a blind nut in the ply tip and drilled holes in some pennies and bolted them on with 4-40 bolt. Lately I have been building plywood weight boxes and closing them with a piece of a 1/4 x 20 nylon wing bolt. I Use BB's and can put them in and out the bolt hole. I started out using the maple wing-mounting blocks which are tapped and drilled. I concaved them a bit on the inside with my dremel and built a ply box using the maple block as the outside wall. Later, I just glued a second piece of plywood on one side of the box, drilled and tapped a hole, hardened the threads with cya. and that works fine.




