i've got a li'l wizard sitting on my shelf and was wondering about cg because with a new Norvel on it i don't know if it's like an rc cg i was guessing that old engines weren't as heavy

and im having trouble with my engine and starting it the propscrew keeps undoing itself every time i try to start it with my starter any help?

i have no idea what control line is like it was sitting in my grandpa's plane shed and it had been sitting there for years

just wondering

A good starting point for the CG would be 20% of the chord. If I remember correctly the wing is a constant chord flat wing. Don't push the CG any further back than 33%, the more forward the CG the more stable. In general the CG on CL models is further forward than RC models.

IF you can find a local CL pilot to test fly it for you that would best, typically most first time pilots over control the elevator. As for the starter I'm not sure what to say.

look at the "Stuka Stunt works" forum. do a search with Yahoo and search for Stuka Stunt works, and locate the forum link. THere are alot more Cl guys on that forum that may have a better answer for the CG location.

Also get the right line length....that is critical, I forget how long that should be

You also might be able to locate someone in your own town that would be willing to test fly the model for you and teach you how to fly it....

Good luck

Old engines also weren't NEARLY as powerful. I would suggest locating an old .049 for it. With ANY Norvel, you will have your hands full...unless you are into racing.

George

Balance it on the leading edge to maybe 1/4 inch back. 25% is way too far back on this airplane. An expert flier might be able to fly it with the CG that far back but not a new flier. 1/2A CL airplanes generally need to balance further forward than larger airplanes.

Jim

You're right Jim, the entire premise of this model was for it to be dead stable, and bearly responsive. Jerry Brach was a club member of the Michigan Radio Control Society ith the sixties when he designed it for his son to learn on. Funny, he wanted royalties but the best Carl would come up with was his picture on the box. Don't know what ever became of him, the club disanded when the Farmington Hobby Shop went out of business.

Uh okay, I just don't know all this % stuff xplain please, I just want to fly it not make a career out of it I'm a kid so I just need it to work

Worry not about the % stuff as it is bad advice.

Jim

Just a couple things, balance at the front leadout, that is close enough for basic flight.

1. Norvel has probably twice the power of the Cox Baby Bee the plane was designed for. Also the overall length ( assuming standard norvel tank mount) is longer, resulting in more nose weight. You might want to try and locate a Cox for it. ESTES has them on their website for $5, but you will need an extrernal tank for that model.

2. Line length- with a Cox it's normal to use about 35 feet, if you keep the Norvel on it I'd go to at least '40. new lines can be made from " Spider wire" fishing line. I use "Fusion 10 lb test". It doesn't stretch like the dacron stuff you usually find on the handle for old 1/2 a planes.

3. Use the narrow spacing at the handle for your first flights. Over controlling is the most common mistake, narrow spacing helps prevent that. Hold your wrist locked straight up and down, and raise / lower your entire arm at the shoulder to control the plane.

4. pick a calm or very low wind day for the 1st attempt. Wind is hard for beginners to compensate for.

5. Ask around the local R/C club and find someone who used to / does still fly control line. They would probably be willing to help, and that will give you a big headstart.

Good luck

PS - I have a couple Wizzards and still fly them once in a while, and let people who come by to watch try them. Good planes!

By the way, I had a fellow modeler call me and tell me that the Lil Wizard is available now from Brodak. If you wanted to buy one.

Well I have to say that I do have norvel engine, and it is VERY POWERFULL!!!!!! For starting it, when you say that the prop always comes undone, I have the same problem most of the time. But what I do that makes it happen less often is, put like not even a drop of fuel in the carb. Like that when the engine starts it goes lean and pulls lots of fuel that it needs. After it stops, don't add any fuel and as fast as you can (after the engine stops), turn over the prop to start it again. It works like 3/4 or the time for me without having the prop to come off. When the prop does come off, put it back on and try again. It may be also because the engine is still breaking in, the more i make mine run the less it does that. I also have the AME .061. It never does that and has quite a bit more power in it.

If you need any more help ask me

LeBlanc

Sorry I've been away from this site getting other answers. I have an external tank on it and yes I'm still breaking in the engine but I have no idea what you're talking about leblanc can you put it in normal terms say step by step 123 type of thing. you're confusing me

For sure I can,

1: fill your tank
2: put just like a drop in the carburator
3: connect the power source
4: try and start the engine
5: if it doesn't make like pop or their is no sound of an explosion just add a little drop in the carb again, with time you ll get used to how much fuel your engine needs.
6: when it does the engine should only run for a second or two. (note do not fill the tank so that the line that goes to the carburator fill up and maybe flouds the engine ( that may be your case ))
7: as soon as your engine stops try and start it again as quickly as possible without going near the prop when it's turning.
8: the engine should be running then

If you need any more help i ll be glad to explain a little more

LeBlanc

Ok I just have to get a 12V battery for my box I spent my money already so it'll take a while to buy it.

Scrounge up a couple of D cells and make a starting battery with them. You might be able to find some around the house for free.

Also a 12V battery will burn out your glow plug. You need a 1.2 or 1.5 max volts.

LeBlanc

i've lost hope[&o] it's not as "easy" as I thought and wasn't planning on it to be easy. if i get to it, i get to it. i don't, i don't. but i'll still keep my stuff just in case i get to it. thanks for the help guys.

rcfreakk,

Don't make it more complicated than it is.
I assume that by box, you are referring to an RC flite box which usually has a 12V. battery for the starter and a dropping mechanism (electronic or resistor) for the glow plug. That's fine. Most CL guys use a separate booster battery for the glow plug...both work.
If the prop keeps spinning off when you start the Norvel, place a piece of thick paper between the prop and the engine thrust washer and tighten with the wrench (in case you were using a screwdriver).

George