Looking for some good advice on painting/coating/doping the solid balsa wings, etc. on my 1/2a kits, any feedback on this?

Thanks,

Bob

I've had good luck airbrushing dope on smaller planes. (Works OK on the larger planes, too, just stinks up the house!)

I recently answered a similar question here: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4259093]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4259093[/link]

Do you have an airbrush, or will you be brush painting?

Phil

I use nitrate dope mixed with talcom powder, 2-3 brushed coats then butyrate color. Makes a decent finish. I buy randalphs butyrate and nitrate at about 27 bucks a gallon. If you brush on a coat of nitrate then cover with silkspan followed by a couple more coats of nitrate you can completely cover the wood grain.

Depending on how you want to do it, you can go dope OR you can thin light spackling with water and brush it on, sand it almost all off, then spray with rustoleum primer, sand smooth and check for imperfections then paint with Rustoleum right out of the spray paint can. Wait a week and it's fuelproof.

Butyrate Dope from the hobby shop is the lightest paint and most fuelproof. Thin it out, it goes a long way. I've heard of the Rustoleum method, but never tried it, worth an experiment. Dope with some talcum really fills the grain nicely, as long as you sand the excess off and just leave the grain filled. Best advice I can give you, the lighter the paint coating, the better. 1/2A's are small models and the lighter you make them, the better. I've even spread epoxy as thin as I could get it, sand it real smooth, then painted. But the best finish is one that is as light as you make it and still make the wood fuelproof. Glossy and shiny is not as important as lightness and fuelproof.

What is Rustoleum ? I've never seen it in my neck of the woods. Oil based enamel ? Epoxy enamel ?


Luke.

Look here:

[link=http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=18&SBL=1]http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=18&SBL=1[/link]

Phil

So it's basically an enamel with a rust inhibitor ? Sounds like Wattyl Killrust. I have used the small generic touch-up tins of enamel from the hardware store for years, but it doesn't like nitro and it really must be sprayed. Too heavy for brushing.

I guess you could say that. I use it in a spray can, and it flows out nicely. It dries to a nice, slightly flexible, glossy enamel-like finish. It's only drawback is the time it takes to dry and become fuelproof. I've not used it over balsa as Clean mentions, but I have used it over Ultracote plastic film on my Great Planes RV-4, and I love the results. After 2 full seasons, it still looks new. Some details and pictures are here:

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Finished_my_RV%2D4/m_1896658/tm.htm]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Finished_my_RV%2D4/m_1896658/tm.htm[/link]

My reason for going with Rustoleum for that project were primarily economic. In New England, spray Rustoleum can be had, at Home Depot, for under $5 a can, and the stuff at the hobby shop approaches $10 a can.

Phil

That's quite a nice job, Phil.

I wonder if, over here in the UK, "Smooth finish Hammerite" is the same as "Rustoleum" under a different name ?

I have used this Hammerite on models, but it goes on a bit thick from a spray can, and is quite heavy, though the finish is very good.

edit = Oh and it is fuel proof against Diesel and my 15% Nitro glow fuel.

We have another product over here called Krylon, it is not fuelproof which is a pain because it comes in a bunch of really nice colors that they seem to have the rainbow of at Walmart. Still, it's quick, cheap and if done correctly, light.

For something of real value I'd still go with dope, but for my CL Scale Racer, 1/2A sheet trainers, all my SPADs and anything with covering on it, Rustoleum is the thing to use.

Well, for military finishes I always use Humbrol or Testors enamels with an overcoat of clear polyurethane, flat or semi gloss. Unfortunately it yellows (gloss being the worst) and isn't as fuel proof as I would like it to be with 1/2A fuels. I have had great success in the past with the cheap enamels I mentioned earlier, but again, they aren't as nitro tolerant as I would like them to be.

BTW, thanks for the tip re the thin coat of spackle, I never thought of that. I have always used tissue, talc and nitrate dope, time consuming.


Luke.

A couple of points:

Some colors of Rustoleum are reportedly NOT fuel proof. Mostly metalics. Check before using.

I believe the spackle mentioned is the Lite version, not the normal heavy stuff.

Nitrate is not fuel proof and must be covered with a fuel proofer such as Butyrate dope, polyurethane varnish, etc. Also never try to put nitrate over butyrate. Nitrate adheres well, doesn't shrink, dries fast. Butyrate shrinks (unless you get the low shrink kind) and is good for tightening fabric covering. It is fuel proof but takes a long time to completely dry. Although usable quickly, it will continue to "gas off" for weeks.

That said, I mostly use butyrate. I have had best luck with Brodak butyrate dope, which is a derivative of Randolphs, especially formulated for models. Other brands work well too. I just prefer Brodaks because it dries faster and has has more pigment in the colors.

George