Stanzel 1/2A Mono-Line Unit
#2

Jetpack,
To use the monoline system you will not only need the actuator in the plane but also solid flying wire and a monoline control handle. Monoline controls the plane by twisting the wire, which moves either a spring-like cam (your pic) or a worm gear (the speed units) to provide control movement.
There is a Stanzel museum in TX run by Dale Kirn who promoted Monoline for Vic Stanzel, the inventor of monoline. I believe Dale has the last of the monoline units, if no one here has one.
I think most built the Berkeley Skyray as a FF model. For goodness sake, don't use that aluminum impeller as the duct fan.
Good luck with it.
George
To use the monoline system you will not only need the actuator in the plane but also solid flying wire and a monoline control handle. Monoline controls the plane by twisting the wire, which moves either a spring-like cam (your pic) or a worm gear (the speed units) to provide control movement.
There is a Stanzel museum in TX run by Dale Kirn who promoted Monoline for Vic Stanzel, the inventor of monoline. I believe Dale has the last of the monoline units, if no one here has one.
I think most built the Berkeley Skyray as a FF model. For goodness sake, don't use that aluminum impeller as the duct fan.
Good luck with it.
George
#3
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (1)
Thank you George,
Yes, I agree using the stock impeller is not a good idea if it's going to be flown. This one will be built only as a static display model that I am trying to make "period correct" in all aspects - motor, control unit, fuel tank, ect...it will not be flown, so a control handle isn't all that necessary...just trying to complete what goes inside the plane.
My idea is to patch in clear-view sections as it is built, to show the various operating features, so you can look inside and see how it all works, and its construction aspects - more or less like a "science" kit.
I am undecided whether to go with clear acetate sections near each feature, or simply going "half and half" with the covering...using tissue covering, doped and decaled on the right half of the plane and then using transparent monokote on the "inside" half where all the control links are.
I think the berkeley scale ducted fan kit series are a marvel, and should make a great display. They are definetly a "master builder" type balsa kit, as each one features much fueselage planking, and delicate framework. Truely the peak of design and building in its own era in my opinion for being a 1/2A engine class ship.
I have spoken with Dale about the possible availability of any remaining control units, but unfortunatly learned there are no more around for sale.
Yes, I agree using the stock impeller is not a good idea if it's going to be flown. This one will be built only as a static display model that I am trying to make "period correct" in all aspects - motor, control unit, fuel tank, ect...it will not be flown, so a control handle isn't all that necessary...just trying to complete what goes inside the plane.
My idea is to patch in clear-view sections as it is built, to show the various operating features, so you can look inside and see how it all works, and its construction aspects - more or less like a "science" kit.
I am undecided whether to go with clear acetate sections near each feature, or simply going "half and half" with the covering...using tissue covering, doped and decaled on the right half of the plane and then using transparent monokote on the "inside" half where all the control links are.
I think the berkeley scale ducted fan kit series are a marvel, and should make a great display. They are definetly a "master builder" type balsa kit, as each one features much fueselage planking, and delicate framework. Truely the peak of design and building in its own era in my opinion for being a 1/2A engine class ship.
I have spoken with Dale about the possible availability of any remaining control units, but unfortunatly learned there are no more around for sale.
#4

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: TELFORD, PA
Look at the North American Speed Society web site, there are some suppliers of monoline stuff listed there but I doubt they would have the scroll type thats shown on the plans. Time to hit the K&S rack at the LHS and make one.
#5
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (1)
Yeap, making one has crossed my mind, definetly...they are pretty basic units. I don't really have anything other than whats shown on the plans though, and still a little grey on what materials were used, or if its bushed or what...its a pretty generic reference on the plans, so I cant really nail a good copy of one. I'm capable of any type of metalworking or forming being a journeyman machinist by trade, but in this case im lacking a good picture of one.
#6

Jetpack,
Can't quite make out on the plans, but it appears that the upper engine installed is a Cub .049B with pull-starter and the lower is a Cox Thermal Hopper. Correct?
Sounds like you are taking on quite a project, especially since you are going to "show the bones". I remember looking at the kit at our LHS when Berkeley brought it out, but I have never built a ducted fan plane.
If you can't find the Monoline unit you can always build it as the FF version. I think most built them as FF anyway.
George
Can't quite make out on the plans, but it appears that the upper engine installed is a Cub .049B with pull-starter and the lower is a Cox Thermal Hopper. Correct?
Sounds like you are taking on quite a project, especially since you are going to "show the bones". I remember looking at the kit at our LHS when Berkeley brought it out, but I have never built a ducted fan plane.
If you can't find the Monoline unit you can always build it as the FF version. I think most built them as FF anyway.
George
#7

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: TELFORD, PA
Jetpack, I copied and zoomed the drawing and you have top and side view. if the drawing is fullsize (seems to be) then you can get most dimensions needed with the only one missing that was obvious was the torque wire length. The units I have personally seen were brass tube and piano wire soldered together. I would think that there is a small ball thrust bearing for the TQ wire to spin against since you would want to eliminate as much friction as possible but cannot say for sure. Give it a try, you can probably come up with a close enough copy.
#8
I have over 600 monoline torque units including the H&R units and original Stanzel. The 1/2A units are $35 shi[pped to you. 479-410-2863 [email protected]



