I’m building a Phantom from scratch, starting with the plans which I found online as an A4 sheet and enlarged to scale with Page Plus. I then cut and taped the parts together to make a plan and had them copied onto one sheet by my local copy shop. I had 3 sets made, 1 as master, 1 as working, and 1 to cut for pattern pieces.

The pattern pieces were tacked to the balsa and have been rough cut.
The photo shows the wood cut ready for finishing and assembly. Also a piece of GRP circuit board which I etched the copper off to make the bell crank. The engine is also lurking there somewhere. (Poser)

I have the plywood for the firewall/undercarriage support and bell crank support but it is not cut yet as I will cut it oversize and fit to the fuse as it is built so I get a very good fit. I also have the piano wire and wheels ready to fit.

The tank will also be made to fit the space available. Whatever happened to the tin oil can? plastic just doesn’t solder the same and a surprising number of tin cans are made of some alloy or other, again not ideal for soldering. Still I have some tin sheet I robbed from another project that will do the job.

I will post more pics as I progress with the build, and some more boring drivel as well if anyone gives me the slightest encouragement.

You have my encouragement !

Robert

Good to see someone who also likes to make everything. Is there any problem using brass sheet for tanks-chem. reaction or whatever? I will hopefully posts some pics this week of a viscous type rattrap freeflight dt timer with start-on-release that I built this past winter for my 1/2 A Zeek. I also built a full fuselage version of Crackerjack from an old profile plan. Good luck and have fun

No problem with using brass sheet except I dont have any and it costs. Whereas recycled baked bean tins dont. Thats also why I liked the old 1 gallon oil tins and such like as a great store of free metal for tanks, cowls etc.

In case you hadnt guessed, I am as tight with money as a bulls bum in fly time.

The cowl on my Crackerjack is from a Mug rootbeer can-origional graphic intact. I did not think anyone was tighter than me but i may have some competition...

Could it be the plastic coating on the cans? Try sanding the surfaces to be joined, then tin the surface before actually soldering it together.

George

Some types of brass tubing will split over time. Many use copper instead. Not sure about sheet brass.

Did you treat that Crackerjack to a Sky Fury engine as shown in the pic? [8D]

George

No its the fact that they are made of plastic not steel anymore. I do know how to solder. (should do after 40+ years) But thanks for the tip anyway.

I have not flown the Crackerjack yet. I do not have a Sky F ury; I was origionally going to put on an OK Cub, but it has never been run and I decided to keep it that way-I'm not really a collector,but... What I did put on is a Baby Bee with dual bypass ports and a GloBee head with a timing shim-I do not know the thickness of the shim as my caliper(digital) crapped out (Chineese). I just went trial and error until it ran good- and it DO run good. I am waiting to maiden flight it until my son can be with to help- I am no Spring Chicken and also have not built a stooge yet.Do you think 35' lines are enough for a hot engine? I have been away for awhile and do not remember what I used to use with my PT19 etc. I think those plastic jobs were alot heavier than this built up Plane-I am not sure if I need longer lines or not.( I built my version of the cracker jack with a built up sym. wing and full fuselage) I aim to find out pretty soon!!Thanks for your post-do you have any pics of the Sky Fury that are better than what I posted?[8D]

Sorry, don't currently have a Sky Fury. I had a Sky Fury twin once, but that "disappeared" many years ago. The K&B Allyn Sky Fury had a unique glow plug. The element had a square "notch" instead of a coil. Cute little engine with the twin stacks.

If you decide to give the OK Cub a go, make sure you break it in with a series of heat cycles for maximum performance.

Using 35 ft lines should be safe to start. Once you have flown it, you may opt for longer lines, but the shorter ones should provide better tension, etc. until you get it trimmed. The two bypass Babe Bee should really make it go.

Good luck with it.

George

Thanks George!I kind of feel like I hijacked this thread, so I will start a new thread when I can post some pictures. Thanks again[8D]

Here we have an over view of the parts. the port wing has been shaped and is ready for covering, the starboard wing is just rough carved. The fuselage has the bearers glued in place. The tail is rough cut with the elevator shaped and ready for covering. On the right are various formers and the fin. It also shows the bellcrank mounted on its bearer. The bellcrank is made from a bit of GRP circuit board. The former is going to have the undercarriage "sewn" to it.

The copied and enlarged plan can be seen under the parts in pic 1.

Davred,

You probably already plan to do it, but you might want to chamfer or radius those bellcrank holes unless you are using solid leadouts.

George

Hi George. The holes are not full size yet, just pilots, but I will be using solid leadouts on this model.

Good tip though for anyone reading this who is going to use flexible leadouts on their models. On larger models I also sometimes run the leadout wires through soft brass tube in the bellcrank to stop the wire sawing through.

Coming together nicely now. The wings are made and joined, filled and just need sanding before tissue covering and doping. The fuselage is joined and the engine bearers drilled. Fire wall with the undercarriage is fitted. Not in the pic but the bell crank has its wires fitted ready to install.

The tail is ready for covering and having the hinges fitted. Not sure yet if I am going to use small rc hinges, tape, or sewn. The control horn is a small rc one. The fin is the only part that is only cut out and had no work done on it. The fuselage top block is rough carved to shape.

The tank will be next to be built and fitted followed by the cowl.

Taking into consideration I am building a medium sized rc model as well, things are coming on well.

Looking for ideas on colour scheme now.

It looks really good! I do hope you plan on hollowing that top block or you may face a tail heavy model. The completed model (less covering and finish) should be significantly nose heavy else you will need to add lead ballast to the nose and that will hurt overall performance.

Good job and keep up the good work!

Robert

Yes the top block will be hollowed before sticking down. The tank will be forward of the CG which will help a bit. If it ends up too tail heavy I have a bigger engine I could fit but then it would be rather overpowered. (.015)

I came across this pic. It looks very like a Phantom biplane. Might build that next just for a bit of fun.
Wonder what size engine to put in it taking the wingspan to be Phantoms 21". About a 2.5 cc maybe. What do you think?

I believe that would be plenty of engine-assuming that my conversion to .15 cu. in. is correct(Silly American-that's me!)[8D]

Yes I think you are right .15cu in sounds about right. I was wondering if it might be too much engine for the size. I suppose the only way to be sure would be to try it and see.

Not a lot of obvious work but quite a lot of progress. The tail has been completed ready for covering. I went with the cloth hinges and a small rc control horn as can be seen in the pic.

The main fuselage blocks have been shaped and the top fuselage block has been hollowed out. I might do a little more on this but with my luck I would go through it.

The fin has been shaped but still needs sanding to an aerodynamic shape and the offset being put on.

I have made a paper template of the tank which will be half round and mounted behind the engine on the firewall. I hope to cut the tank and solder it over the next couple of days.

The cowling I am not sure on yet. It might be balsa or I might go the beer tin route, or even both just for the hell of it. Then it needs covering and doping, fitting it all together and finishing it. Still no ideas on colour scheme yet though

The fuel tank Mk1, Im not happy with it so will have another go.
I think I need a bigger spinner otherwise I have a lot of wood to lose on the nose.

The tail plane has been fitted and the bell crank, control horn and rods connected. It’s beginning to look like an aircraft now even though most of the parts are just pinned together. The wings have been tissue covered but might have to be recovered as the tissue I’ve got is heavy weight and is not sticking too well. Have to see what a couple of coats of dope will do.

The fuel tank has been remade and is airtight so it might do. Have to make a decision on the engine soon, shall I use the AP 06 in the pics or shall I overpower it with a .12. Probably stick with the 06 for now but who knows what I will get up to next.

Ive got a copy of the plans for the Keil Kraft Joker. Anyone remember that one? gonna build that for one of my cox engines.

The Phantom is coming on well. More pics and waffle later.

The wings, tail, fin, top and bottom of the fuse have been fixed, the tank stuck in place. The tail skid has a hole in it for a stooge. The pushrod needs to be in a lower hole to give more elevator movement.

I am making this as the MK1 and only a windscreen not a full canopy.

The cowl has to be made and I have some 1/32 ply that i will be using. The engine is RC so the throttle will be wired open.

I have aquired some silkspan an decided to use that to cover the plane.