should the aft leadout cable come straight out parralel to the leading edge? Or does it matter?

Ideally the two leadouts should be as close together as practical but call it about an inch apart or less. Then, with the model suspended evenly by both leadouts, the nose should point slightly down. This assumes the CG is in a reasonably correct position of course . There's no necessity to have the rear leadout follow the leading edge whether swept or straight.

It is worth the trouble to make adjustable leadouts. Once you get flying well enough that you can tell what is happening, you can move them around and learn a lot. It is actually a good idea to make everything adjustable so you can change things and see what happens. Good in theory anyway.

Downunder and Jim are pointing you in the right direction. As you fly, drag will cause the lines to bow. How much depends on the diameter and length of the lines, how much tension or "pull" the plane is exerting. Having things adjustable allows you to maximize your setup.

By having adjustable leadouts allows you to set the plane to no engine or rudder offset so that it is flying straight, not skewed. Flying straight should provide good tension because the lines are pulling the plane's flight path in a circle.

But then you probably already know this stuff, just needed confirmation?

George

I have plans for Al Rabe's "Mustunt" series and I think the only thing "not" adjustable on those planes was the air pressure of the tires!
(I sure miss the good old days of "American Aircraft Modeler" and the old "MAN". Rabe, Fancher and Trostle amonst others were my heros back in the '70's)

George,
Can you provide a drawing of how to make an adjustable leadout?

There are many types of adjustable leadouts. Perhaps the easiest is to buy a Brodak unit and install it.
http://www.brodak.com/shop_productde...ProductID=6622
To adjust a line, just loosen with a screwdriver, move and re-tighten.

Many rig a line guide with lines a fixed space apart having both lines adjusted together with one screw. Usually the spacing is about one inch.

My own preference consists of a plywood/balsa laminate that contains a slot for the wires to slide in and some holes for the eyelets that hold wires in position. I got this method from a Bob Hunt video. To adjust, you pull the eyelet out of a hole and press it back in another. The lines are adjusted individually. Here's a pic of my rig during construction of a Ringmaster:

George

I use a setup similar to the one shown on the Brodak link above. I make the "box" out of 1/8 square hardwood, and use only one slider made of good quality plywood with the leadout holes on either side of the holding bolt. I use short pieces of the plastic golden rod outer sheath for the leadouts to go through and make them long enough to stick out into the open track and keep the slider aligned. There is a blind nut on the back of the slider and a washer under the bolt head which, when tightened down, holds the slider in place. I don't use the system George uses because I don't think I can make the holes right to retain the grommets. Also it does not give fine enough adjustment to suit me.

This is a fairly quick slider I made up on a flat wing stunt trainer for my son. The guide is 1.6mm ply set into a slot in the wing, the two brass tubes guide the slider in the slot and are bellmouthed both ends so there's no sharp edges to wear the leadout wires and the slider itself is made from 1/8" alloy.