Hi guys,

I am going to build a CL for a friend as a gift. I have become allergic to CA, epoxy and dope so I can't cover in silkspan. I can still do monocoat or ultracoat (Barely- it outgasses.) Why is everyone in CL still using silkspan? Strength, fuel proofing or? If I do it in film will the new owner like it or does the film make the plane inferior to a seasoned contol liner?

Most of the "old timers" are still using silkspan and dope because that's what they've always used and it still works great. Probably still the lightest method of covering. But a lot of guys. including me, that have come back to C/L after years of R/C are using the newer type of coverings. Some use the plastic, but many are using Polyspan (a heat shrink polyester without a weave) or even Koverall. I have applied the polyesters with ModPodge or even water based Minwax polycrylic. The only way I've been able to get that to work is by applying the covering to the frame while the solution is still wet, and then paint thru it before the base coat dries. Kind of a pain for large pieces. It will not heat activate to adhere. That's about your only choice if your unable to use laquer based products such as BalsaRite or StixIt. Give it a try on a test piece. It will work.

Paul

Doped H/W tissue adds strength and rigidity to the structure, plastic is just a covering. Try the " twist test " on wings covered with each material.
Having said that, I use mostly plastic these days because it's so easy and fast.

Thanks to both Vauxhall and pmw for your replies. I know most of his are doped with some type of tex material. I would like to use plastic because of short $ and experience. I only use tex material when I build WWI scale RC's and that is not that often. Thanks again and since I haven't started the build yet, I am still open to suggestions or opinions.

Hey guy's what is the plastic covering that you are talking about?
Jim

Cover the wing with silkspan wet, stuck down with glue stick, whatever. Now mix some really thin titebond glue, maybe 20 parts water to one part glue. Paint the open bays. When it dries, cover with monocoat. You now have a plastic covered wing which has the rigidity of a silkspan covered wing. No dope smell involved. This is is how I did my slow rat wings.

For those of you with allergic reactions to dope and other adhesives, You should be using a respirator anyway. I use dope on full size aircraft and I refuse to even open a can of butyrate or nitrate dope without a respirator. If you have been doping for the last 20 or 30 years without a respirator, the damage to your lungs, liver and kidneys has already been done. A respirator and cartridges are cheap compared to permanent organ damage. Once damaged, you cannot go back. I know this sounds preachy, but if you can smell the product at all, you are doing damage. Sorry if I come off as annoying to anyone.

Not to me. I built a 1/3 Scale Sig Spacewalker last fall and used Koverall finished with Fokker Red Supercoat dope. I painted it in a spray booth at work and I couldn't believe the amount of red on my cartridges! I can't imagine what it would be like doing it in a basement or garage without any ventilation!



Mike

"Hey guy's what is the plastic covering that you are talking about?
Jim"

The plastic I referred to is Monokote or Solarfilm, that type of adhesive backed, heat shrink material.

There is never a need to feel an out cast for using Monocoat or a covering film of choice on your controlliner. Works fine even on half A ships.

John

I use light weight laminating film.

It's light and shrinks well enough. I do have trouble with tips though.

Can then be painted in however you prefer. I use rattle cans.

Regards

Greg

Greg can you explain more about this laminating film you use?

Thanks for all the replies. Controlliner what respirator are you using? I have the 3M masks that say they are OK for painting but I can still smell the product and if I use CA I still have a reaction. I would wear one if I could find one that actually works. Thanks!