Building Ringmasters
 

I want to show my grand childern what I did in the 1950's. This is the plan from Barry Baxter WWW.CONTROLLINEPLANS.COM . The drawings are real nice the dementions are not all corect so before ordering balsa it is a good idea to mesure the meterials befrore ordering.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

These are the parts. I could not find leading edge that is the corect shape. I started using the table saw then used the Master razer plane and the metal template to make the final shape.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Assembling the wings.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Sheet the wing senter sections. The plans only show the maple engine mounts to the back of the mount opening. I extended the maple back another 2"

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Picture didn't appere on last post so I hope it is here.

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Align tail with wings

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Put on 3 coats of Randolph Rand-O-Proof nitrate dope. Sand between coats.

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Put on Sig Coverall covering. Put on 2 coats of Rand-O-Proof dope.

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Put on 2 coats of Randolph yellow Buterate dope.

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Put on Fox .35 engine and mount tank.

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First flights http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGaZHM1UPQc

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Good job Joseph!!!

I'm always happy to see a new Ringmaster come into being!!!

For others that might want to build a Ringmaster I will attach a PDF file the will print out a full sized plan (with the correct dimensions). If you take it to a copy shop, office supply or even a WalMart and have them print it at %100 it will be full sized.

John Cralley

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Yes I have seen your plans before. They are a lot diffrent. I have the remains of one built from the Sterling kit. The plans you have have a more readley avalible leading edge meterial. Your plans use 3/16 sheet for the tail my plans use 1/8 sheet and that is what the kit had. The plans you have gave me the idea to extend the maple engine mounts farther back in to the fuselage. I built my bellcrank mount to extend accrost the center section not just one side. What got me thinking about this project. About 5 years ago I was out at an R/C feild and an older man was flying his R/C's and we got to talking about the old days. He said he had a Ringmaster in his camper that he had not flown and if I could help him he would like to try it.He had built like 30 years ago. So we set it up and he wanted to pull test it. I held the airplane and he pulled. He pulled way harder than I would have and the bellcrank mount failed. So of course we didn't get to fly it. When I built mine I felt that anothet 1/10 oz of plywood might be a good idea.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Very nice. And I like how you decided to just cut out two sets of parts. I should start cutting out parts. I don't know why, but I'm itimidated by the leading edge.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Joseph,

Actually they are not MY plans. The plans were modified to update the original Ringmaster to a modern version that still meets the Old Time Stunt rules. The fellow who did the modifications was Pat King. Pat is standing on the left in the photo. Jim Swearingen is in the middle and I am on the right.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

At age 12 in 1968 I built my first airplane.  A Sterling Ringmaster.  Complete with McCoy 29.  I learned to fly that baby and have been building and flying ever since.  Keith AMA 50764

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Think I was 16 in 1969 when I built my first Ringmaster S-1 with an Enya .29? Man did the pull on handle get my attention.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

I schach build I buy plans and kind of follow them but I am not usualy fussy about folowing the details. This time I wanted to make them as authenitic as I could. Years ago some one gave me a fuselage, one leading edge, bellcrank mount and the tail from a crashed Sterling Ringmaster kit. So when I started out I was woryed about the leading edge. What I did I had a peace of galveniez steel I think from a washing machine. I traced the shape on about a 2''X3" piece and used a Dermal with a Carbide ber to cut it out. I fasened it to a stick thinking I could drag it over the balsa and eventualy shap the edge. On the table saw I cut the dementions for hight and thickness and beveled the front edges. I descovered that my plan to drag the shape wouldn't work. So I would drag the template and use the Master air screw razer plane to take a little off at a time. I was surprized at how fast it went. Each one of the 4 peaces only took about an hour each to shape. The ribs I used tracing paper and french curves to trace the plan. I have a Kodak 3 in 1 printer copyer. I needed 4 of each rib so I ran them through the copyer. I got some Bordon reposision glue kind of like sticky note and temproley atached the paterns to the balsa. I used a plastic cutting board to hold the parts down and cut through the balsa into the plastic with the Exacto.I turned out all the ribs in three evenings.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

That sounds pretty much what I would try and thanks for letting me know what it really takes. I'm going to start with the leading edge. I've built plenty of free flight models so cutting out parts is no problem. Just getting that massive leading edge right seems a challenge. Thanks for sharing Joe.

Tom

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Yea, I remember the pull on the handle.  It's something I'll never forget.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Tom,

Carving the leading edge will make an authentic Ringmaster leading edge but it will not be the best that you can do. The best leading edge is one which you form by cutting riblets that match the leading edge curvature but 1/16" less in dimension. These riblets are then glued to a 1/8" sheet that forms the back side of the leading edge.The leading edge is then formed by wrapping 1/16" balsa sheet over them. You moisten the balsa on one side (outside) and then gently wrap it around the riblets to give it the proper shape and hold it in place with Ace bandages.. After it has dried you can then glue the sheet to the riblets and this gives you a perfect, light and strong leading edge.

I will attach a photo or two to make clear how this is done. One word of caution: don't wrap the balsa sheeting too tight when you are forming it.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Oh man, that is awesome. I got to study that. That's got to save weight. Any other weight saving ideas for the fuselage or tail?

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To save weight don't put landing gear on. I had to add 1.5 oz in the tail to ballance.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

I've always liked landing gear on my CL planes, personal preference issue. One would have to put a skid on if flying over concrete, asphaltic or Portland cement, or hard stand paving (packed earth) which would increase weight. I guess one could go to lighter weight RC wheels if nose heavy.

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Only a Combat guy would add tail weight to not put gear on one!<div>Chris...</div><div>
</div>

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

John, that is a very nice looking wing jig. Do you also use it as a fuselage jig with other attachments? It looks very versatile.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Thanks, It took a few days to construct but it has served me well. I have not used it for a fuselage jig mainly because I have been building profile models and didn't need it. I now have a Vector kit and when I get around to building it I believe I will set up a bunch of fuselage stations on the jig.

You can get the plans for the jig (a Bill Gruby design) over on the Brotherhood of the Ring forum. You have to register there to use the forum. If you are already registered on the Brotherhood you can just sign in and click this link (otherwise you will have to register and sign in): [link=http://www.brotherhoodofthering.info/mbbs22/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=114&posts=93&start=1]Wing Jig build thread[/link]

Here is another photo:

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Thank you! I will check that out.

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OK Guys, Here tis, My first Ringmaster at the young age of 62...lol
After you've seen the pics, have mercy on me.
I'm an ex Speed and racing man so this Ringmaster has to make a noise and go fast.
The OS 40H in it was originaly built for TQR type models so no muffler and it won't 4 stroke.
Not running 20% nitro and either a 8x7 prop Shown or a 9x6 APC
Thew good thing is that Steve111 will get the honour of first flight at the Old Phartz in Coffs Harbour this weekend.
The only thing he gets to pick is to fly it on .015" lines or chicken out and fly it on .018" (both 60')
This is going to be fun.....lol
FYI
We didn't have enough Red or Blue covering for both wings hence the 2 tone colour scheme.

Cheers

Fredo<br type="_moz" />

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Sharp looking Ringmaster, PWF63, congrats.

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You would probably like the later version of the Ringmaster Junior. Plans show it powered by a Fox .25 schnuerle.

Mine sports an Enya .09. ;)

George

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

My Ring Jr powered by an OS .15FP-S Schneurle with earlier less restrictive muffler weighs in at 19 ounces.

I can't say the total accuracy of this recently purchased "fish" scale, but weighing various items seems to be on the money. Just curious, what is the optimal weight for a model of this size?

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Here's A vid of my Ringmaster flying at the Coffs Harbour Old Phartz meet a couple of week ago.
I don't know that they are supposed to go this fast.....lol


<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ad-T9m6fDAc&amp;feature=youtu.be">Ringmaster Flight at Old Phartz - YouTube

</a>

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Fantastic flight there, PWF63! It flew like a combat plane, and really tight turning! You've given me inspiration for my Ring Jr with OS 15FP-S. I thought I was turning fast laps on 50' at 4 seconds. :)

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

PWF63  real fun I enjoyed watching.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Well GG, my Ringmaster Jr, powered by a PAW .080 SBR weighs 7ozs. To me,

that is optimal for the smallish 195sq" wing area. I fly it on .008" X 44' lines.

The Ringmaster Jr actually is a bit small for the PAW .080. It would fly even

better at 230-240 sq"s.

Your OS.15FP is overkill for such a small model. If you could build the full size

Ringmaster to weigh about the 18-19 ozs; your .15FP would fly it beautifully on

54'-56' lines. Or a more simple project would be a Profile Peacemaker(approx. 300sq"s)

using the .15FP for power. I have built and flown many 1950-1960's 330-395 sq" models

using .15 diesels; that includes full size Flite-Streaks, Veco and Dumas Tomahawks and

a CLC Super Clown.

Tony

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

That is rather light, Tony. Without the engine, wouldn't that be a 5 oz. plane? I gather that the diesels provide you with the power of glow at less weight swinging the same size props.

I built mine with the kit wood. Less engine and muffler at about 6 oz, plane itself is 13 oz. Sterling used 1/8" luan plywood instead of 1/16" birch for the front plank. I used Perfect streamline wheels, which I could go to modern RC light wheels. Just curious how you got it down to 7 ounces less?

You're right on the power for a light Ringmaster. That would take a careful selection of wood and finish. I'll have a similar problem on weight with the kit wood F6F Hellcat, aircraft is of the same proportions as the Ringmaster. For that I was going to the K&B .20 Sportster AAC Schneurle.

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

<span style="font-family: Verdana, Arial; font-size: 13.333333015441895px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);">PWF63! Looked like a lot of fun. So were you wringing it out or was it wringing you out?http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...sn/biggrin.gif

Ken<br type="_moz" /></span>

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Hi Ken
Mate, I was on the needle of that flight. The last time I saw the pilot he was still massaging his shoulder.....http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...ngue_smile.gif
Model weighs 870 grams. I flew it earlier in the day. It almost exeeds my ability now.
But, you're right. A Ringmaster at this speed is a lot of fun.
My names Fredo for future reference.

Cheers


Fredo
<br type="_moz" />

RE: Building Ringmasters
 

Hi George, I used the Paw .080sbr, because it gives more usable power than a TD .049....That's right I said usable power...

I fly with a 6X4 Cox prop, which is too great a load for the TD 049. I also am using a .5oz fuel tank to fly long enough

to complete a stunt pattern. My model complete, ready to fly with out the engine, does weigh less than 5ozs.

Of course I substituted all wood in the kit, using 1/16" ply doublers, and I shortened the nose to locate the CG close to

20%. It uses wing mounted wire gear with super lightweight wheels. A Ring Jr I built amost 20 years ago was

built from a kit, I only substituted the kit doublers with 1/16" plywood sheet. That model weighed 10.5ozs, and was

powered with an Allen Mercury .10cc diesel, commonly known as the AM10. It flew perfectly, flying the stunt pattern

with a soft ease on 42' X .008" lines. That model needed 3/4oz weight under the stab to bring the CG back for

optimal stunt flying. That is why on subsequent Ring Jrs, I shortened the nose moment, to eliminate the need for tail ballast

and shed more ozs to decrease the model's wing loading. The PAW .080 SBR weighs about 2.25 ozs and the AM 10 is about

3.2 ozs.

As a side note, When stationed at Kirtland AFB, I built a Jr powered with a Webra Mach-1. It was heavy and just flew big open

lazy eights and overhead stuff. My very first Ringmaster Jr was built in the early 1950's, it flew quite well with a Cub .099 on

35' lines. I'll be glad to answer more questions about my 1/2A Jrs and If I can remember how to post a pic, I shall.

Tony