Had this msr for two weeks now. Syma s107 before that. This thing does the TBE bad, but other times it comes out of the hole just as smooth as my s107. I dont have a whole lot of experience with 4ch helis. What should i trim to get the (TBE) or the wide circles to go away. i have tried trimming everything with no luck. It goes in a different direction every time i take off. Then sometimes it just flies beautifully? Any suggestions?

Almost all of the time the TBE comes from things like the flybar a littlle bent or binding and other parts of the head binding anywhere the little connecting links are and those little short plastic links can sometimes get bent a little and will bind just slightly. Also make sure the blades pivot freely and equal in both directions. From my experience with the msr and 2 mcx's it's always in the linkage binding in one place or another and depending on what kind of tools you use when popping those little links off to adjust somthing you can put a small bur on the ball or the other part and it will be a litle tighter here and there and it definately causes this. Be very careful especialy when you pop the linkage off the swashplate because those little ends don't take much rough handling. You need some small needle nose pliers to hold the swash while putting the connectors on or taking them off I know what breaks on thee little things because I've already broken it all but the little msr is one of my favorite ones, like a little hummingbird buzzing around.

This sounds like what i had some times it flys great then other times it was unflyable , in my case it turned out to be my fault when connecting the battery sometimes i held it upside down when plugging in and arming the gyro ,

have the heli flat and level when connecting the battery ( and the right way up )

phil.

so do you guys unplug the battery and reset gyro when you crash it. seems when mine does fly good i crash it from trying to do other moves then it starts the TBE after that.

I have an MSR also with the same problems, however this is how I solved my problems
Please under stand that this is a good and very tough bird that will take many crashes and still keep flying
It truly likes to wander in all directions if left to its own devices
Check first very carefully the rotor assembly for any damage including the blades, the blades need to be free of any nicks, you can use an emery board to carefully sand smooth.
Think of this like a motorcycle that will not stand up while stopped, but in motion will become stable
This bird must be driven or piloted ever second and preferrable in forward and lots of counter moves will be required
Make tiny stick movements as this bird is extremely agile and very fast.
Fly very slowly stay in control at all times
If u crash unplug and replug

My bird has had from 300 to 500 crashes and I just about gave up
I have learned to control it with tiny stick and counter movements
Now it is calm and a joy to fly and still remain challenging

Hang in there, this is a very squirely bird, but it is doable

Let me know how you make out

Bill

I have realized that after crashing it the flybar gets a little stiff, not much but just enough to make this heli do the TBE.Use the swashplate tool and its back to normal.

Those flybars can bend a little in a crash and sometimes you don't see it and if they aren't straight it will really give TBE and wobble too if bad enough. I had one that got a weak spot in it and I'd straighten it out and it would keep bending in the same spot because it got weak there. I got a helimax upgrade flybar but all that kind of stuff on these lttle msr's make it weigh enough more to wear the mtors out too fast. You can reinforce the stock flybar underneath with some small carbon rod CA'd in place as the underside of the flybar is concave and the rod fit's right in the little channel. Just make sure both sides are the same length and in the same place. I never have to re-initialize mine after a crash but just make sure you turn onthe trans first, plug the heli in and set it down on somethingflat real quick until the light becomes solid to set the gyro and it shouldn't need anything after. If you have it trimmed right and everything is straight and nothing binding it hould hover just like an MCXor at least real close to it.I'd say the weakest thing on them is the flybars and the blade grips, the metal blade grips from Helimaxare nice and I kept them on but I went back to stock on everything else and it's way better.

Man, My mSR has the TBE right out of the box, with no crashes. I have never removed any of the components, so I know I haven't marred anything up. I tried using the swashplate tool as per the intstructions, and it seems fine unless I am misunderstanding something. This heli is fun, but unless I get the TBE straightened out I prefer the MCX. That thing is solid and goes right where you want it!

the mcx is a coaxial helicopter and therefore should be basically too stable. The whole point of a 4 ch heli is to start getting the stick movemenfs down required to fly more advanced helicopters. I fly my msr outside all the time and over here in pullman wa where i go to school it is almost always windy yet unless its super gusty i can keep it under control. With the msr YOU have to fly IT, dont let it take over. I have crashed mine several times with no toilet bowl problem whatsoever. My stepdad is not nearly as good at flying his msr and he gets tbe all the time. Once you are able to aggressively control your msr i believe you will see the TBE eliminated (providing you consistently make sure everything is in place as it should be)

Swap out the links for the flybar, mine would only fly in a large circle left and back until I replaced them.

I have flowen the MSR many months now and have encoutered 2 main problems
The E-flight batteries our of poor quality and do not put out enough power to service these 3 pole motors
, as well poor cycle life. I aasume that you are using the 120map at 14 c I truly believe that these motors need more power
There are better batteries at Hobby King in Hong Kong that fit perfectly with ratings of 160map at 30c at $1.47 ea and $6.00 to ship, so buy a dozen
they have longer cycle times like up to 600

This has turned my bird into a smooth flyer without TBE
A computer radio is a great asset, My is DX8
True control of the servos

Check carefully for any broken parts as quides and make sure the air surfaces are undamaged
I do not crash my any more, but when I was I used and emery board to smooth

Best of luck

Have you tried the batteries from Hobby King
They are 160map at 30 c at $1.47 ea and $6.00 dollars to ship with longer cycle times of up to 600

I seemed to have discovered that these 3 pole motors require more power than the E-flight batteries

My bird has become a smooth dependable flyer

This is a truly engeneering success from E-flite
Inexpensive, easy to fix, parts are cheap and flies like models 2 twice the price
excellent learning tool and a lot of fun
I have paired my with a DX8, and the control of this bird exciting

Bill Truax