CX has been fun, CP Pro is en route. Any advice/experience regarding pre-flight checkout would be appreciated. Those of you that have been down this path already... Do you recommend Radds indoors or outdoors for starters? Anyone care to share key mistakes made during the transition from CX to CP?
Thanks...j

Been a CX owner for several months, just got the cp pro about a week and a half ago. The pro was setup perfectly out of the box. I could not believe how smooth it looked and sounded when spooled up. I have put 14 packs thru it and have not broken anything yet. Not bragging just suprised myself. I was expecting it to be extremely difficult to fly and it wasnt nearly as bad as I thought. I took my training gear off around battery pack # 9 and can pretty much hover tail in and spot land it. IMO the most important thing to know before you fly is to be VERY light on the controls. That thing is quick, not unmanageable, but quick and man is it fun!

My hat is off to ya....I'm having the worst time with my CP PRO. I must have put 75 packs through my CX....and it seems as if I never touched a heli before with the pro.....It might be on EBAY soon.

Jbeede, I am about a week into the Radds indoor method. It takes patience, but the learning curve has been great. So far it seems to me that the only thing I am missing each time I 'crash" is damage from gravity. So far, I am the limiting factor in controling the machine and altitude isn't necessary yet. I'm just starting helis after about 14+ yrs in fixed wing R/C. Andy

Has anyone tried moving the servo links to a more central point on the horns? Even moving them in one notch would reduce the throws AND reduce the sensitivity since a given amount of movement on the stick results in less movement on the swash. We might have to adjust the linkages but I doubt it'd be more than half a turn and might be skipable by using a click or two of trim instead.

Could one of you guru types pick at this a bit and let me know what the downsides would be? To my fuzzy sleep hungry brain it seems like it would make the controls a bit more relaxed without any major downside for those of us who have absolutely no need for the full range of motion on the swashplate.

If you want to 'tame it down' a bit, here are some easy things that will work:

- Add an extra flybar weight (or wheel collar) to the flybar, next to the one that is already there. This will dampen control response a bit.

- Yes, you can move the servo arms in 1 hole, but if you do, you will probably have to re-adjust the height of the swash plate. Not a huge job, but not simple either...

- Make sure the flybar paddles are level with the flybar holder frame. It is easy to not notice when one has been knocked out of position, but this can make it VERY squirrelly.

- Balance the blades and head. If you see the tail or landing struts shaking while spooling up, then something is out of balance, and the heli is going to be harder to fly because of it.