I know that it is not the best heli to begin with but it was a gift from my wife and it is what my buddy has. I can hover a Raptor 90 but this thing is a little more touchy than the raptor. First night I tried a could get the heli off the ground and hover for a few seconds and set it back down. I had a little disagreement with the concrete but after new blades the heli was fine. Now it seems like when I throtte up the heli wants to go forward and to the left. Is this just the nature of the heli or is there some adjustments I to do? I checked the fly bar and the paddles are parrallel. No bend parts and everything works properly. I'm just afraid to lift off and it go into forward flight with me because I am not that good with it. I have the training gear but it only helps to a point.

When throttling up and just before take off the heli will always drift left due to the torque from the blades. Mine sometimes drifts forward a bit as well. Just have to counteract with the right stick till youre flying .It wont drift left on you in flight .
Unless youre pretty good with it then goto the flat bottom blades till youlre used to it. And if you break lots of blades then you should buy a set of plasti blades. theyre pretty indestructable. JCS Hobbies has a site online for them

Look up Radd's school of rotary flight. YOU may be more advanced than most, but the basic lessons should give you a good set of steps to go through, both for learning and reducing the cost of replacement parts. There are also several good sites for setting up the 4 in one and some of the other things that are inherent to the Blades. Let us all know how you are doing. Lots of learning from each other on this forum,

And as Futura said...Hello' Im Andy and I am an RC Heli addict

As far as the flying forward issue I have this as well sometimes- I think it is the battery being too far forward. Even just a little bit maked a difference. I always check the balance before each flight but still need to trim if I notice heli wants to fly forward or backwards. I think when I get a lipo pack that is flat this will no longer be a problem (I am using the stock 650 nMh battery).

It should drift towards the left(most the time your flying) due to the thrust from the tail rotor.

But if its pitching forward, back, left, right. Then you have a cg problem or if the cg is right, a trim problem. It should go up relativly straight, with a small leftward movment, but this shouldn't be a roll left. Just a small drift.

I agree with the guys,

It is inherent for the heli to go left on take off. As you throttle up for take off, move the right stick about 1/8 to 1/4 inch to the right.

It should then take off pretty much straight up, then move the stick back to the left slowly to center point..

As far as the CG goes, it's darn hard to get the battery in the exact same place everytime, even testing cg with the flybar and it looks level, it could be off enough that you have some small forward or backward flight.

What I like to do, I spend about the first minute or two making trim adjustments.. Take off, hover about 2 feet off the ground, let go of the right stick, just for a second or so, and see which way the heli wants to drift. Land, make necessary trim adjustments, only 1 or 2 clicks at a time. Take off and repeat until the heli almost can hover by itself for a few seconds.

Don't make over corrections, this can cause the heli to start doing all kind of funny things, move all control sticks smoothly and slowly.

It just takes a lot of time, practice, practice.


Dave / Choppersrule

Thanks for all of the input guys. I'm spending a couple hours a day on the simulator. It is alot of fun but sometimes I get a little frustrated because I am used to just picking up on stuff and being able to do it. This is not the case with the heli! Guys that have been flying for years make it look so easy. I'll try moving the battery around and report back how that worked. Thanks for all the help guys

I have seen several people fly the CP Pro and none of them make it look easy! Spending time to get your trims right is good advice. Use a silver Sharpie to make an index point for your battery location so you can get it close to the same spot each time you insert it.
...j

Moving the battery back seems to be the fix. Also, before I was afraid to get off the ground because it was pushing hard to the left. It still does that but once you get off the ground it levels out. I ran the battery out with maybe four or five hover attemps. Thanks for the help guys and I'll let you know how I progress!

DOBERMAN150 ,

As mentioned in an earlier post, on take off, hold the right stick about half way to the right.
Just long enough for the heli to get airborne and slowly move back to center..

It takes awhile to get the hang of it, but try one battery pack, just taking off, land, taking off and keep repeating the drill.


Dave / Choppersrule

You know, it's funny... The drifting to the left is something most newbs are really puzzled by. I have to admit, it puzzled me too at first, but after I landed and took off about a 3 or 4 times, and noted it always happening, it just sort of 'dawned' on me what was happening.

I then went online, and looked it up, and found that I was right. It was the tail rotor blowing me to the left... After I realized it, I was like, 'Doh! That makes sense, duh!'...


I bet that once most people figure it out they have a similar reaction. That's what has always fascinated me about the physical world so much. Many times, the answers are so simple and just staring us right in the faces, but we can easily miss them...

the heli should drift to the left on take off, i learnt on a bcp, adn i'm doing basic ff, no nose in yet. the more you take off, the better you'll get at compensating the drift at take off, until it's second to nature. once in the air, if you look closely, the heli will lean to the right abit when it's in a hover. this is also due to the tail pushing it to the left, you'll still have to compensate it but you wont notice it because you're doing all other compensation of cyclic and rudder and throttle etc.

a while bak in this tread somebody mentioned radd's school of rotary flights, that's a good site but dont expect your bcpp to be trimmed so you can hover hands off for few seconds or more. if it's extremely trimmed, i'll say no more than 5 sec hands off. so you'll always need to compensate. even though it's extremely important to trim the heli good, a bcpp will never fly like those big birds/dual rotor helis.

with all that being said, the bcpp can be learnt on but i'd advise you to get the flat bottom blades until your comfortable hovering at least, adn get some training gears, the gears will slow down your heli making it more stable. but vibrations will be more noticable with it, so once you can hover a pack tail in, take it off, you'll love the feeling. also, the bell hiller on the bcpp will make learning harder in my opinion, some would say easier. put on the training gears adn go to a large area, lift the heli up only a few cm so that teh gear does come off the ground but not high. i found it impossible to learn on the ground since it needs a whole lot more of cyclic control than in the air which is not very useful. let teh heli drift and then lower the throttle, then the next time, try to compensate it, if you freak out, just drop the throttle, a few cm off the ground wont hurt you.

teh bcpp is by no mean a beginner heli and definitly not a first timer. it can be learnt on adn once you get comfortable flying it, you can basically fly anything there is.

Yah I agree with ya. The BH would be hard to learn on cuz of the fast response. I learned on stock then recently upgraded to the BH and I love it.Id never go back to stock.Im so used to that superfast response now. I also added the aluminum swash which I think speeds it up as well.

I dont know if I couldve learned with the BH. I think overcorrecting wouldve been a problem

i had just upgrade to the bh and also did the fuel tubing mod on the stock tx. i also removed the flybar weights so the response is even faster. but when your learnin with bh, your heli wont be as stable, so i'll think it actually makes it harder to learn on. i can tell you exactly because i cant go bak and be a beginner again. it'll take some time to get use to the faster response if you started with a bcp though.

I tried the fuel tube mod on mine only yesterday and Im sorry I did. When Im hovering in the basement the throttle stays pretty much at one spot so the little clicks hold it there better.
But NOW I find that if I have to make a quick tail correction Im either pulling back or pushing the stick the equivalent of 2 or 3 clicks. Which is quite a lot when youre trying to stay low enough from hitting the ceiling. I think Im gonna try bend it back

the thing with the fuel tubing for me is that i dont really feal teh small throttle imputs i make until i see the heli doing something, which i consider is alittle too late. this 'not feeling the imputs' feeling will make me make bigger imputs and thus will result in wat was originally bout 7 clicks, i think i like the clicks better too.

Couldnt have said it better Chopper. Thats why I like the little clicks as well.
That guy on runryder or where ever those videos are from says your thumb will go numb. On that subject I think his brain is numb lol

I HATE HATE HATE HATE HATE the clicks on the throttle stick!!! I put fuel tubing in all my TXs as soon as I get them.

It's just a matter of preference. Having a smooth stick is harder at first, but once you get used to it, it is better IMO. It's more precise then those stupid clicks, which are always right in between where you need to be...

I don't even like the clicks when flying planes, and always used to mod the TX for them as well....

i understand the smooth throttle is more precise, but i dun think that THAT precise is needed on the blade, i got no clue bout the bigger birds. because with teh blade, you'll always need constant imputs and counter reactions, so it's not gonna stay in the same altitude for long anyways. but i think it's just a matter of preference. i found it quite hard to 'feel' teh small imputs you make, that is until you see your heli responding, which in my sense i consider to be too late, i like to be 'ahead' of my heli. with the bigger birds i cant say cuase i've never flown one, but i dont think that this much precision is needed for the blade.

The main prob I have is that when I make a rudder correction I sometimes move the stick up or down a bit without really knowing I did it. At least with the clicks I can feel what I just did. Brail for the heli impaired I guess lol

Yah, like I said tho, it is just a matter of preference. Some people do prefer the clicks, but personally, I don't like them.

I can hover my BCP in a place protected from wind for a LONG time with only my right hand on the right stick. I can get it into a nice hover, and trim the tail, then just let go of the left stick, and it will sit right there as long as I don't let it move around too much. With the clicks, I don't think you could do that very easily...

i know wat you mean when you said you only need to use the cyclic stick, but wat i mean is that ppl deal away with the clicks only because the heli wont stay in the same altitude, but when you do move the cyclic, it will lose altitude. but my tail have a tendency to be really trimmed out, and then suddenly swirls to the right and then stay there, wonder if it's time for a new t. motor?

i want a bigger bird!!!

Im having a problem with my cp pro. the first flight it hovered - only a foot or so off the ground, outdoors low to no wind (with heading lock gyro) - very unstable, the tail boom was loose so I unplugged the battery and fixed it then it would just spin left, I think that was just the battery getting low. Now it doesn't lift off and drifts left, even after I called the service number for the company, they had me adjust the servo arm and I had adjusted the trim full right and it still goes left and right stick will only slow it, stop it or tip it over to the right. I need help getting lift and not drifting severly to the left. My CX is in the shop too, it burned out 4 batteries in 2 weeks - it was brand new, I had to send it in for service - they think one of the motors is working harder then another - I didn't have any serious crashes. They said the turn around time is 3 weeks! Is there any quality control there?

the drifting is normal, but from wat it looks like is that it was ok the first flight but not the second. if it wont lift off, then try adjusting the pitch control links before spending any money. too much/little will cause it to not lift off. it could also be a defective lipo. try making the pitch of the main blades at exactly 0 degrees when throttle and trim is low. but i always end up increasing it abit. when on the ground, the drifting is normal due to the fact that the tail rotor is pushing it to the left. hold right stick until you stop it and then lift off, when in the air however, you wont notice it as much.

also, i want to ask anybody out there who knows this, will the bh upgrade on the bcp only gives faster response? or will it also give faster cyclic control as in roll/flip rate?

Itll do both for you. If youre still running stock and never flown using the BH you wont believe the difference. Chances are youre gonna dump it 1st time flying thats how sensitive it is compared to stock. Night and day.
I think BH would be a must for stunt flying.