Modifications to slow down the Blade CP?
08-28-2006 | 07:29 PM
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
Modifications to slow down the Blade CP?
Aside from training gear is there anything I can do to slow down the blade CP for beginner's trainning? Maybe stick some weights on the flybar?
I realize why I was having alot of trouble with my blade CP during learning phase I had my collective at a positive angle of attack. Now that I've properly zero'ed it I need to push almost all the way (75-80% trottle) before i get lift off which the lift off also feels much more stable at that speed.
Although with trainning gear it's about 100% throttle for take off.
I realize why I was having alot of trouble with my blade CP during learning phase I had my collective at a positive angle of attack. Now that I've properly zero'ed it I need to push almost all the way (75-80% trottle) before i get lift off which the lift off also feels much more stable at that speed.
Although with trainning gear it's about 100% throttle for take off.
08-28-2006 | 08:19 PM
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From: Burlington, NC
RE: Modifications to slow down the Blade CP?
I not sure about slowing it down more, but you may need to add a little more pitch in the blades. Even though it has a faster head speed it will be very tough to maintain a steady hover. Just practice with it and you will soon learn to control and then also want it to be more sensitive.
08-28-2006 | 08:44 PM
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From: Louisville,
KY
RE: Modifications to slow down the Blade CP?
Plasti-blades worked for me. The added weight gives a nice stability that is more helpful than their durability. The knock on them, I suppose, is that they are so robust, you'll break things like grip arms and such if you collide w/ fixed objects.
Never tried it, but I would suppose, added flybar weights would have the same effect.
The machine just gets less 'twichy'.
Never tried it, but I would suppose, added flybar weights would have the same effect.
The machine just gets less 'twichy'.
08-28-2006 | 11:52 PM
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From: Canton,
OH
RE: Modifications to slow down the Blade CP?
I am running an extra set of flybar weights and it helps alot, slows the beast down some. Also where are you keeping the trim for your throttle? I turn mine up to a click or 2 under 50% as soon as the 3in1 has initialized I can get take-off a little before 75% throttle. I am somewhat wary about the plastiblades. My friend got a set and the first boomstrike shattered his tail boom, and I get enough boomstrikes to put me off the plasti blades. At least on the Blade, I have a set on my walkera it has asturdy enough tail I think....not that it matters, it decided all on its own to dive forwards and bury itself right under the front bumper of my car so it'll be down for a while AGAIN. The plastiblades survived for the most part though. Only some minor gouging on the tips nothing a dremel and some patience rebalancing them and they would be almost good as new.
08-29-2006 | 01:18 AM
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From: Sac,
CA
RE: Modifications to slow down the Blade CP?
flat bottom blades are better for training because they provide more lift at similar angle of attack and speed compared to symetrical blades. between plastiblades and wood flat bottoms, you trade light weight for durability. the added weight of plastiblades can additionally slow cyclic response. you can also add weights to the flybar shaft if you desire slower cyclic response.
however, by slowing the helis cyclic response to compensate for "dramatic thumbs" will also make the heli less quick to respond to an attempted save. having a sensitive heli in some sense helps you see what you're doing wrong sooner, and teaches you to control more precisely.
also, heavier blade configurations have more momentum, and with more durable material to go with it, you can cause more damage to your heli during a crash with them. for example: a buddy of mine recently pulverized the head on his cp during a chicken dance with plastiblades. after the crash he was left with his tough plastiblades and a not so tough heli that required $36 in parts and a couple hours of wrench time to get airborn. i've seen a few similar crashes, and would argue that he would've only had to replace the blades instead of half the heli if he had woodies on. i'm not trashing on plastiblades, i just think the thought of collateral damage has to be included when you talk about plastiblades. in fact, last week i was wrenching on my heli near my lcd monitor with the motors plugged in (stupid me). when the motor blipped for a second to full throttle, my poor woodies disintigrated on the face of my monitor without scratching it or damaging my shafts. if i had plastiblades on, my monitor would be toast, and my shaft would probably be bent too.
however, by slowing the helis cyclic response to compensate for "dramatic thumbs" will also make the heli less quick to respond to an attempted save. having a sensitive heli in some sense helps you see what you're doing wrong sooner, and teaches you to control more precisely.
also, heavier blade configurations have more momentum, and with more durable material to go with it, you can cause more damage to your heli during a crash with them. for example: a buddy of mine recently pulverized the head on his cp during a chicken dance with plastiblades. after the crash he was left with his tough plastiblades and a not so tough heli that required $36 in parts and a couple hours of wrench time to get airborn. i've seen a few similar crashes, and would argue that he would've only had to replace the blades instead of half the heli if he had woodies on. i'm not trashing on plastiblades, i just think the thought of collateral damage has to be included when you talk about plastiblades. in fact, last week i was wrenching on my heli near my lcd monitor with the motors plugged in (stupid me). when the motor blipped for a second to full throttle, my poor woodies disintigrated on the face of my monitor without scratching it or damaging my shafts. if i had plastiblades on, my monitor would be toast, and my shaft would probably be bent too.
08-29-2006 | 04:13 AM
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From: Grass Valley,
CA
RE: Modifications to slow down the Blade CP?
ORIGINAL: Truglodite
flat bottom blades are better for training because they provide more lift at similar angle of attack and speed compared to symetrical blades. between plastiblades and wood flat bottoms, you trade light weight for durability. the added weight of plastiblades can additionally slow cyclic response. you can also add weights to the flybar shaft if you desire slower cyclic response.
however, by slowing the helis cyclic response to compensate for "dramatic thumbs" will also make the heli less quick to respond to an attempted save. having a sensitive heli in some sense helps you see what you're doing wrong sooner, and teaches you to control more precisely.
also, heavier blade configurations have more momentum, and with more durable material to go with it, you can cause more damage to your heli during a crash with them. for example: a buddy of mine recently pulverized the head on his cp during a chicken dance with plastiblades. after the crash he was left with his tough plastiblades and a not so tough heli that required $36 in parts and a couple hours of wrench time to get airborn. i've seen a few similar crashes, and would argue that he would've only had to replace the blades instead of half the heli if he had woodies on. i'm not trashing on plastiblades, i just think the thought of collateral damage has to be included when you talk about plastiblades. in fact, last week i was wrenching on my heli near my lcd monitor with the motors plugged in (stupid me). when the motor blipped for a second to full throttle, my poor woodies disintigrated on the face of my monitor without scratching it or damaging my shafts. if i had plastiblades on, my monitor would be toast, and my shaft would probably be bent too.
flat bottom blades are better for training because they provide more lift at similar angle of attack and speed compared to symetrical blades. between plastiblades and wood flat bottoms, you trade light weight for durability. the added weight of plastiblades can additionally slow cyclic response. you can also add weights to the flybar shaft if you desire slower cyclic response.
however, by slowing the helis cyclic response to compensate for "dramatic thumbs" will also make the heli less quick to respond to an attempted save. having a sensitive heli in some sense helps you see what you're doing wrong sooner, and teaches you to control more precisely.
also, heavier blade configurations have more momentum, and with more durable material to go with it, you can cause more damage to your heli during a crash with them. for example: a buddy of mine recently pulverized the head on his cp during a chicken dance with plastiblades. after the crash he was left with his tough plastiblades and a not so tough heli that required $36 in parts and a couple hours of wrench time to get airborn. i've seen a few similar crashes, and would argue that he would've only had to replace the blades instead of half the heli if he had woodies on. i'm not trashing on plastiblades, i just think the thought of collateral damage has to be included when you talk about plastiblades. in fact, last week i was wrenching on my heli near my lcd monitor with the motors plugged in (stupid me). when the motor blipped for a second to full throttle, my poor woodies disintigrated on the face of my monitor without scratching it or damaging my shafts. if i had plastiblades on, my monitor would be toast, and my shaft would probably be bent too.
I've had plastic blades for awhile and the worst thing thats happened to the head is the spindle gets bent.
