I was thinking of the dd tail motor like Nick Maxwell has done, then CNC head complete, then brushless.
Take into consideration I'm new and still hovering.
Thanks
Steve Maxwell

Oh, are you related to him? What is he using for a setup anyway, I would like to do the same.

No relation unless it's way down the road somewhere, like maybe the pilgrims, LOL
Do search on RGGroups for his name you'll find his setup.

The first upgrade should be a better transmitter either a 7C or a 9C.
Next Direct Heli's blue gear with hardened shaft
Next Aluminum swach plate
Next Brushless
Next G-90
Next Dual tail motor or DD
On the way, try every blade made.

I didn't quite do it in that order, but I wish I had. I haven't seen any good reviews on the CNC head, so skip that one.

Only upgrade when you are ready for the next step, because at any point you may decide to just move to a T-rex and skip some of this.

I want to know why you people like the metal swash so much. Besides the fact that it is stronger, as i have had no problems with the rigidity of my stock one. The only reason I can see is that the micro-heli swash offers more range of movement for 3D flight.

Why would you need a better transmitter? It's a 6ch heli, why get a 7 or 9 channel TX? It doesn't make much sense if you only own 1 heli to get a 200-300 dollar TX.

I already use the 9C so that was a no brainer LOL. Talk to local heli guy at LHS today and he pretty much said the same as you Watson DD tail, G90, and CNC Swach, and that should be as good as it gets.
Virus I like having the versatility of the 9C I can do 18 models in the same TX, saying that If didn't have the TX I wouldn't buy for just this heli, unless I was going to build more planes or heli's one of the things I like best is having a throttle cut as a safety matter.
Steve Maxwell

I've got the CP pro as my first heli.
When I originally looked at the specs and the price I thought "What a bargain".
I found the TX to be as cheap as one could make it but I should have realized that.
I assumed that this would be an addition to my transmitters that I would use for other planes or ??? Again I was wrong.
1. it has no expo
2. it has no dual rates.
3. you can't use any servo as a replacement because the throttle and swash plate are tied together and cannot be programmed independently.
4. The antenna broke with a very light bump into a plastic snow fence.
5. You can't program the throttle or pitch curves.
On the other hand.
1. it does work.
2. I am using it.
I have programmed my Hitec Optic 6 to fly it as well and I can use all of the features that don't work with the standard TX.

As far as upgrades go, I'm looking for others inputs too. I find my CP pro is just fine as is, right now, for my skill level, which is still tail in hovering. I've spend enough between blades, and parts (tail motor, spindle, shims, balancer, o-rings,...).

put fuses on the motors to protect the rx, I went with the full cnc head, Helidirect main gear and shaft, lipo monitor, dual tail motors, plastic blades, helidirect tail fin, thats about it.

I'm not questioning your decisions but I want a little more data to understand WHY people make the decisions that they do about upgrading. I'm a newbee as far as heli's go but a retired electrical engineer.

1. I put a fuse on the main motor. It makes some sense but I've also read articles that the standard auto fuse is really not fast enough to really protect the ESC. It just sounds logical.

2. Lipo Monitor is also a high priority, potentially helps to save batteries by not discharging them too much. If you switch to brushless this should not be an issue as the brushless esc usually has cut off for your lipos.

3. Please explain the true benefits of dual tail motors. I haven't noticed a problem with my tail yet although as I said I have replaced a tail motor gone bad. Again I've read that the ESC really goes over current limits with the stall current of 2 motors. Yes the motors run cooler but at $6 for the motor and $45-$70 for the controller I think I should protect the ESC.

4. Why the cnc head? under load there is little or no play. I don't understand the benefits here.

5. Are plastic blades more dangerous? I had a run in with my heli when I switched offf the TX before disconnecting the RX battery. I got hit hard but not cut bad. I am switching to flat bottom blades as I'm not ready for inverted flight and I hear that they will increase my flight time. Th only problem I find with the $7/pr wood blades is that they pick up some grass stains at the field.

6. I assume that the landing gear and shaft are much stronger. What's the benefit of the tail fin?

7. I've also had people explain that replacing the rear geared motor with a direct drive helps under certain circumstances.

Thanks in advance,

I just finished my first flight on my cp pro after doing the direct drive tail motor ala Nick Maxwell. HOLY COW what a difference! The response is waaaay faster and i am not even using a HH gyro, just the stock rate one. It only required a very minor modifictaion to the tail motor mount to make it fit (the stock one has flat sides and this one is round) and a little creative soldering and voila, a heli that does what its supposed to. Not only is the response and holding ability much better under all loads, there is NO fear of a tail rotor strike becuase the new prop is about 2" shorter than the stock one. If i had to guess, i would say this mod is right up there on the "TO DO" list and it only costs $13 shipped including the motor, 2 blades, and the heat sink which is very necessary. It does add a bit of weight to the tail but probably not as much as a dual tail mod, all you have to do is slide the batt. about 1/2" forward. Oh, and here is a [link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1018873]link[/link] to Nick Maxwells actual setup.

The dual tail motors cut current load making the motors run cooler as you know the stock single motor gets very hot, another reason is if one motor dies on you, you have a back up to get you down safely. Lots of people are using the dual tail motors and I have read a lot at different forums and no one I have heard of has had problems due to the dual tail motors. Fuses are good the auto fuses may or may not be fast enough but sometimes they are faster than you. I know they have saved my 4n1. As for the cnc head I like it because it does not break less time fixing more time flying, Also looks good. Plastic blades may be a little more dangerous but they will save you a ton of money. The tail fin I believe is a little longer than the stock stick and much stronger (looks good too) also that little stick is very difficult to get out of their, if you need to change booms or it breaks off. The tail fin in the pic clamps on as well as the dual tail motor mount in pic in fact the tail fin is made to bolt right onto the dual tail mount to save a little weight but it comes with its own clamp if you are not using the dm mount. Both of these upgrades make changing the boom very easy, as said before less time fixing more time flying. As for the dd tail not to familiar with it as I am running the Duals.

Don't really need the extra weight of the upgraded landing gear stock ones are fine. The main gear I was talking about is the main rotor gear it is stronger and lighter than stock also gives you auto rotation

zenchal26
How did you like the conversion to the Helidirect main gear and shaft? The reveiws on there own site isn't good but I know how that is too.

Ungrades I just done, CNC swach,G90 heading hold gyro, and the DD tail motor as Nick done, still don't have prop for tail but I'm ready when it comes in, plus using my 9C for TX. For my level of experience I think that should do me.

Steve Maxwell

Good thread, I was wondering the same thing just the other day.
I'm suprised the TX is on the top of the list, but makes sense...and I guess makes it cheaper to have as far as one time cost on way to a TRex...heh.

Being a relative newbie I wasn't aware of features like Expo ro Dual Rates. The first sounds pretty nice... What is the real point of dual rates tho? Doesn't changing idle-up basically do that anyhow?

You can buy the 9c from Radio South for $299.95 and it will be all the radio you will ever need, I'm flying FAI pattern with mine and have been for 5 years, it will do 18 models and do heli, airplanes and gliders,heres a link.
http://www.radiosouthrc.com/closeup....d=442&offset=0
Steve Maxwell

I appreciate the responses with the details for the upgrades. Thanks a lot.

I have 2 hitec optic 6 radios. I have read many articles both pro and con for this radio and it's potential reported problems. Neither of my radios have shown any problems and I find they are the best value around. I fly several times a week and my radios are 1 year old. I've been flying since 1968.
I got mine with the spectra/all channel module, 4 hitec servos, Supreme RX, tx and rx batteries, switches and accessories for $200 shipped to my door. The Hitec has all the programable features needed for planes and helis and can work with futaba, airtronics, JR, flight packs that are PPM. It also has Hitecs version of QPCM built in too. My only complaint is that it only holds 8 model memories as I put 2000ma battery pack in it and only bring 1 tx to the field with 3-4 different planes that have different mfg flight packs.
I found TX with the all channel spectra module for $159.
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/755491.asp

patternrules: Thanks for the link. Seems like everyone recommends the 9c Futaba. One Q though... once you get the radio...don't you also then have to replace items in the heli? I mean just because I have the TX doesn't that mean I now have some otehr reciever included with it, and then will have to throw out the 4in1 and buy replacements for the ESC, etc..etc..etc.. ?

I just bought the Futuba single conversion RX crystal and works great, wanted all my stuff to be on same frequency. I have the Pro so it's the 3 and 1 but should be the same for the 4 and 1.

At $299 for the tX only it has to be a great radio.
I didn't have to replace anything to get my optic 6 to work with the blade cp pro.
When I got my Blade CP Pro on channel 17 I was able to review the manual for the cp pro and make all of the settings on my optic 6 so it mirrored the original TX. Took about 2 hours to set and tweak all the parameters. Had to learn a bunch of new words like pitch curve and throttle curve,...... The hardest part was turning on 1 tx then connecting the battery, then moving a servo then disconnecting the rx then turning off the tx, then turning on the other tx, then turning on the rx and setting the tx so the correct servos would move the same. This had to be repeated for all the functions.

bnrusso...Where did you get the 2000mah battery pack for your Optic 6?

I get my batteries from batteryspace.com
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...S&Category=267

If you want them cheaper, they have an ebay store too.
http://stores.ebay.com/All-Batteries...QQftidZ2QQtZkm

Be sure to double check the connectors. I found that some of the connectors are wired reversed or have to have connectors soldered. They carry those too. http://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...S&Category=317

Same company.

For my 2cents worth, The mini fuses for the controler first. They will help save the 3-in-1 or a 4-in-1 with a blade strike and overload of the electrics. It has already saved mine once. I added it to my BCP after I saw it work at the field on a very experienced fliers CP, then did mine.

ZENCHAL26 , good pictures. Where did you get that double mini fuse mount? TIA, Andy

patternrules

I have no complaints about the helidirect main gear and shaft works great and not that I have used it yet but the auto rotation feature is nice makes for a cool spool down.

Flying Foot Doc

I bought the fuse holder at AutoZone you can find them at most auto parts stores. It is a mini fuse add a circuit. You have to pull it apart and cut it down and solider wires on it but it works slick.