Blade CX2 Bomber
#1
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From: edmonton, AB, CANADA
Here are some pictures I thought some of you might get a kick out of.
I used the 5th channel on my CX2 to run a servo to carry and drop a 'bomb'.
So far I only have a little plastic missile from a jet model, but maybe with a little C4...
Anyway, the system is crude but it works well. The pictures are not great either, but should show the idea.
I could not get a picture of the bomb dropping, sorry.
Also, I painted the bomb with a Sharpie and White-out, so don't laugh.
And I put some lights on it too.
Enjoy!
I used the 5th channel on my CX2 to run a servo to carry and drop a 'bomb'.
So far I only have a little plastic missile from a jet model, but maybe with a little C4...
Anyway, the system is crude but it works well. The pictures are not great either, but should show the idea.
I could not get a picture of the bomb dropping, sorry.
Also, I painted the bomb with a Sharpie and White-out, so don't laugh.
And I put some lights on it too.
Enjoy!
#3
Did you just use a led for the light? I just bought one yesterday and got 2 packs through it so far and love it. It is my first heli other than one I bought off ebay 2 years ago and never got the hang of. I still have it for when I learn more about the controls. Nice set-up.
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From: edmonton, AB, CANADA
ORIGINAL: Teamwoody
Why is a resistor needed? And what voltage LED did you use? Did you use the lipo for power?
Why is a resistor needed? And what voltage LED did you use? Did you use the lipo for power?
A resistor is needed so the LEDs don't fry. They are cheapo LEDs from Radio Shack, I think the colored ones are about 2 or 3 volts and the clear one on the front is a 4 volt. I stuck in a 100k resistor,also from Radio Shack(The Source),another cheapo item. I think the LEDS are $3.99 for 20 assorted colors, the clear one is about $2. the resistors come in assorted packs too, for about $3.
I don't have any fancy soldering iron, just a $12 jobber iron and a larger soldering gun. Grab some thin wire, get yourself a few bucks worth of leds and resistors, and a soldering iron and solder. And flux. For those who don't know, usually the LED will have one longer 'leg' than the other , this is the Positive + side, which must be connected to the positive input voltage. I don't think it matters what side the resistor goes on, just solder it inline somewhere. I think. This has worked for me(so far).You can find handy charts online and easy to use conversion tables to figure out what the little stripes on a resistor are trying to tell you about themselves. This way when you get a box of assorted resistors, you can read the stripes to figure out which is a 100k, 330k, etc.
Much easier than it sounds, trust me. Plus if you buy about $10 worth of parts, you can make lights for all your models, and your cat, and you can stick them in pumpkins at Halloween if that's what you're into, or pimp out your whip(whatever that is), the possibilities are endless.
The lights are plugged into the 4 in 1. They can be unplugged easily at will.I may add a switch.
I used the 5th channel for the bomb release, so guess which channel I plugged into for the light power.
Hint- there is no button on your controller for this channel.
Hope that helps, remember I am a rank amateur with almost no electronics knowledge whatsoever, except for the stuff I have learned myself the hard way by causing lots of small and expensive fires, so I take no responsibility if you do what I have done and your heli burns or your dog runs away or your truck gets stolen, don't blame me but do make us a video.
Ahoy-hoy!
#9
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From: Nashua,
NH
Here's the code for the resistors:
BB ROY from Great Britain had a Very Good Wife
Black Brown Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Violet Grey White
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
The first two stripes indicate the first two numbers and the next color is the multiplier. If there is a fourth one, it is usually a tolerance band (gold or silver) indicating 10% and 5% (can't remember which is which right off the top of my head).
So a 100k would be Brown, Black, Yellow, 330k would be Orange, Orange, Yellow
BB ROY from Great Britain had a Very Good Wife
Black Brown Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Violet Grey White
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
The first two stripes indicate the first two numbers and the next color is the multiplier. If there is a fourth one, it is usually a tolerance band (gold or silver) indicating 10% and 5% (can't remember which is which right off the top of my head).
So a 100k would be Brown, Black, Yellow, 330k would be Orange, Orange, Yellow
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From: edmonton, AB, CANADA
ORIGINAL: healthyfatboy
Here's the code for the resistors:
BB ROY from Great Britain had a Very Good Wife
Black Brown Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Violet Grey White
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
The first two stripes indicate the first two numbers and the next color is the multiplier. If there is a fourth one, it is usually a tolerance band (gold or silver) indicating 10% and 5% (can't remember which is which right off the top of my head).
So a 100k would be Brown, Black, Yellow, 330k would be Orange, Orange, Yellow
Here's the code for the resistors:
BB ROY from Great Britain had a Very Good Wife
Black Brown Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Violet Grey White
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
The first two stripes indicate the first two numbers and the next color is the multiplier. If there is a fourth one, it is usually a tolerance band (gold or silver) indicating 10% and 5% (can't remember which is which right off the top of my head).
So a 100k would be Brown, Black, Yellow, 330k would be Orange, Orange, Yellow
Check this site for a real lazy (easy) chart. http://www.micro-ohm.com/colorcode/rescolor.html
I have been lucky, since all the resistors I have bought have a silver or gold tolerance band.
You 'read' the resistor from the other end, the one opposite the gold or silver.
Pretty sure, anyway.
Oh yeah, the resistors I used are 1/4 watt,I have some 1/8 watt too but have not tried them yet.




