So I bought some of those plastic blades even though I knew that I would be chopping off my tailboom if i landed to hard...... Anyways I chopped of my first tail boom. I thought it would be an easy repair but it is not! it seems to be glued on. How Do I remove the tail boom and install a new one. anyone have any step by step instructions???

Thanks in advance

cut it flush and with the frame then drill the rest out with the appropriate sized drill bit. any other way and you'll likely damage the frame to where it is unuseable.

i've also heard of some ppl using larger cf tube to splice on a new boom, which would be easier to do but takes away from the bling and adds a little weight. the advantage of splicing is you can do it in a way that makes future boom replacements easier (basically you use a plastic tube and a pair of setscrews to make an easily removeable splice).

good luck,
kev

I figured there would be simpler methods than this since it seems to be a part that breaks often. I went to my LHS and got the entire tail assembly, which they said should be easier than trying to take out the boom

When I replaced mine, I just twisted and pulled it a little and it came out. Also, instead of buying E-Flites carbon boom or anything else made of carbon (rod/tube) on the Blade, just buy it from the carbon stock. My LHS has a stock of different size carbon rod, tubes, and others. I just took the boom still in the package and found one that will work. End result - 2 booms for a little less than the price of one.

Stock carbon tubes eh? Interesting...! As far as replacing the tail boom (I have plastic blades), I've had one frame that was runied because it wouldn't come out. The other one, fine. When I install a new tail boom on this frame, I use 1/2 drop of locktite plastic super glue. It will break loose once in a while and I'll have to re-glue it but I'm not wrecking frames if I have a boom strike. The one thing you have to remember is that the original hole for the tail boom is a METRIC hole requiring a metric drill bit. A reamer for that size hole would be real good to have.

true the cf on the blade is all metric, but as long as you've got 1/64" size increment english bits you can get it close enough where it won't matter after adhesive is used. besides, many lhs's stock cf in english sizes only, and obviously if you are using english cf tube, an english bit would be ideal. the reamer is a good idea, but unfortunately most reamers are designed to leave a tapered hole.

a word on adhesives: using loctite with plastic parts is generally not a good idea. the chemicals in loctite are known to break down plastics, resulting in a weakened bond and potential damage to the part (read the directions on a loctite bottle, it says it's for metal parts only). although the parts on the cp are a carbon composite, they likely still contain some plastic in the matrix, so loctite should generally not be used on our helis (motor screws or pinion gears are the exception).

still, i feel for ppl with plastiblades and broken booms, so i thought of something else that will probably work fine. use rtv silicone. the kind you can find at any automotive store that is used to make gaskets. i learned that's what airplane guys use to mount small brushless motors on CF tubing. if rtv will hold a brushless motor on as well as make removing it easy, i'm sure it'll do the trick with holding the boom on the frame.

I agree the plastiblades can eat tail boom particularly on hard landing. I have been using the plasti blades for 3 weeks now and I combine it with a aluminum tail boom (12" x 3/16) which really works well. I just have to put a masking tape at the end of each boom and screw it in. I got the aluminum tail boom from my LHS which is already pre cut and it cost around 3 bucks for 3 rods. I don't think I will be switching to cf tail boom anytime soon.

The superglue I am referring to is "locktite #2" which is specifically designed for use on "most" plastics. I just found out about it a few weeks ago, I have a couple tubes on hand because it don't "burn" the plastic I've been using it on, and it seems to work good with the CF. Stronger tail booms and plastic blades, that equals damage someplace else...like the rotor head it's self. There's always a trade off no matter how you slice it (no pun intended).

Have you tried to use a CA debonder product? That's I use and it works great. Apply it liberally to the joint. Allow it time to work into the joint. Slowly start applying gentle twisting and pulling to the parts. As the debonder works, the joint will loosen and eventually seperate.

Rod

I'd try it if I needed it but I've got a handle on this tail boom thing now.

I latched onto it with a pair of vicegrips and twisted ...it popped out pretty easy. In my LHS there is a rack of aluminum and brass stock. I found an aluminum tube that is the exact length/i.d./o.d. Its pretty thick walled so it should hold up well against blade strikes.

what about un soldering the motor? any way to get around that?

Err....I don't think so. Even if you went to a plug system, you'd still have to fish the wire thru the tube not to mention that new tail motors don't come with leads.