stock CPP lipo question
#1
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From: fairfax,
VA
I was wandering what is the average life of a LiPo battery (11.1v 800mah 3 cell)? My problem is that I can hover at 6ft for a few seconds but when I start flying around i.e. fwd flight, left and right the heli just looses power and it starts to slowly descent .. btw i have BL motor, micro heli swashplate, DD tail motor, sym blade, and bell hiller on my setup... I have 2 LiPos with at least 60+ flights on each battery...
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From: spring hill,
FL
I've been fling on my pack at least 2-3 times per day for about 3 months, and haven't had a problem. Mine still goes strong for about 15-20 minutes. Your cells may be unbalanced. I've heard rumor, but haven't had to try it myself, that if you leave the battery pack alone for a few days (no flying, no charging) that the pack will balance itself. There's also LiPo balancers. If you don't know anyone that has one, your LHS may have one handy that they use on their display products. They may let you use it in the store. Of course you may just have a bad pack. Rechargable batteries are kind of fickle. Never know when it's gonna give up.
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From: spring hill,
FL
Could be a bad ESC in the 4-n-1. But before you spend $50 on a new 4-n-1...
Are these E-flite packs that are being charged on the E-flite charger? I had a problem with my charger. They're not very durable. After repeated battery plug-ins and removals the terminal pins on the battery connector tend to break out of the solder on the terminal board. This results in either a charge error, or a false full-charge reading.
Pull the case on the charger and get the terminal board out. Try wiggling the white battery connector, and see if the pins move around in the solder points. If they do, and you're handy with a soldering iron, just reheat the points to re-set the connections. That fixed my problem.
Are these E-flite packs that are being charged on the E-flite charger? I had a problem with my charger. They're not very durable. After repeated battery plug-ins and removals the terminal pins on the battery connector tend to break out of the solder on the terminal board. This results in either a charge error, or a false full-charge reading.
Pull the case on the charger and get the terminal board out. Try wiggling the white battery connector, and see if the pins move around in the solder points. If they do, and you're handy with a soldering iron, just reheat the points to re-set the connections. That fixed my problem.



