Do you use a blade after you chip it? Do you try to fix a blade? When is blade damage enough to change the blade? Do you normally have alot of extra blades? Thanks Ron

What model is your heli?

And yes, you will want a couple of spare blade sets on hand. The good thing is that your local hobby shop (LHS) should have replacement blades for your Blade in stock. BTW, you should always change both blades as a set so as not to upset the balance.
Good luck and good flying!

P.S. Don't forget to wear proper eye protection while operating or working on your heli.

Blades come by the bag and you'll find that the blades within any bag are balanced. They may not match the blades that you have on hand, but that's easy enough to fix. I'll get to that in a minute.
As far as changing the blades in pairs, I balance the pair. And for repairing the blades, if it's a small chunk broken out, and you have the missing part, a bit of CA glue will stick the broken part back in place. BUT, be aware that by doing that you just messed up the balance and aerodynamics of the blade. When I was new at this and I was breaking blades by the bucket full, I resorted to all sorts of tricks to save a buck. As I got better, I also wrecked blades a lot less, so the blades lasted longer, and I could afford to replace chipped blades. Now I seldom break a blade and I am much more fussy about the setup of the heli. And the more fussy I get, the better it flies. And I always have a couple of sets of blades on hand. Stuff happens and if you never break a blade you're not having much fun.

SO about FMB42's comments about always changing blades in pairs. His method is the premium way to keep things in balance. If you take off a good blade along with the bad blade, save that good blade. Very likely you will run across another bag at a later date that it will match. There's no reason to throw the good blade away.
If you accept balancing blades ( I believe that the majority of us do balance blades) here's how I do it. Some add a bit of tape to the light blade, others sand a bit off of the heavy blade (sand the trailing edge). Your choice.

You say you’re unbalanced? I can fix that.

The blades have linkage balls on them. The blades lock together without screws, if you are gentle with them – or put the screws in. Whatever - Be happy. Get a couple of soup cans and set them side by side spaced so you can put the balls of the blades on the rim of the cans. The blades will balance on the edges of the cans (or glasses or steak knives or whatever). If one end of the blade assembly is light, add a strip of tape to the underside and smooth it out completely so it doesn’t mess up the aerodynamics of the blade. Keep adding lengths of tape until the two blades sit level, but it takes very little tape so don’t get nuts. I use packing tape in 3/8” wide strips near the outer end of the blades. Scared of tape? Stuck-on peanut butter works. So do boogers. But tape is smoother.

And after you replace blades, you may suddenly have a bad case of the dreaded T B E . . .

Get Outa the Toilet!
TBE. Toilet Bowl Effect. ‘Round and ‘round she goes in a larger and larger circles and you can’t stop it or control it. Like, wassupwithat?
A large part of TBE is caused by friction at the balls on the upper blade where the flybar linkage connects. From the factory there is often a ring of 'flash' plastic around the ball. When you snap the flybar linkage onto the ball there is just a bit of resistance. GET RID OF THAT FLASH. Use a knife and scrape it or sand it or whatever, but ANY resistance in the flybar linkage will cause TBE. And the less the flybar weighs, the worse it is. With clean balls you get no Toilet Bowl Effect. Even with the lightweight flybar.
So there are three things that I know of that cause TBE;
1- Flash on the linkage balls (oh the jokes, but I'm not going there)
2- Bent flybar - that little bit of bend will become a whole bunch of bend when the rotor is at speed. That bend causes the pivot at the center of the flybar to bind in the hub.
3- A bent inner or outer shaft - the bent shaft causes the rotor head to spin in a circle, not just rotate - and that pushes the flybar out of whack. But it looks just fine when you stop the rotors. It’s magic. Anyhow, it’s also causing TBE. Remove the blades top and bottom. Move the throttle to the right then forward to make just one shaft spin and look down at the hub from directly above. OK, now move the throttle to the left, then forward to turn the other shaft slowly and watch the rotor head. If it's not spinning true, fix it or replace it. If the hub is not spinning true, it's causing the flybar to warp at higher rpm and that does the same thing as a bent flybar.
Was all that worth anything to you?

Thanks for all that great info! Now that I'm chipping blades I'm getting nervous about flying and doing worst. Well gotta keep going. Practice is the key I guess!

Try this thread, and maybe the search function. Never underestimate the power of good CA glue!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5323225&key=