Hi, I decided to check the voltage on my stock cp pro lipo battery becuse I am getting less flight time. I am using the stock charger. I could use some help understanding what I have noticed while checking the battery. When I check the red wire on the balance charger lead on the battery I get 12.6 volts, when I check the blue wire I get 8.4 volts and when I check the yellow wire I get 4.2 volts. Is this the correct readings or should all the wires have the same voltage? I was thinking each cell was supposed to be 4.2 volts and increases with each cell because they are in series so three cells ends up being 12.6 volts, is this correct? Thanks Rick

I believe that is right on the money sportsman............ How many flights on your motors? The stock mains usually get around 20 hrs and the tails probably 10 hrs. If you are losing flight time (you didn't say how much) My bet would be on the motors getting worn out. Your battery voltages are right on.
www.bphobbies.com has mains and tails for cheaper than the eflite ones. 6.50 each I believe. Looks like they are out of tail motors, but have the mains in stock. http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=V019752 Those are for the honeybee CP2 but are the same motors and what alot of us have been running in ours.


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Of all the things I ever lost.............................................. I miss my mind the most!

Hi ArrowNaughtic, I was thinking that was okay but I'm glad to have you confirm. I have maybe 35 flights on the heli since I bought it, the tail motor does not hold at all anymore so I will replace it tonite. I ordered the DD motor setup and when I get it I might just install it to see if that helps hold the tail. One thing I haven't done is break in the motors so maybe that might be a part of the problem. I will also take the heli apart again as I have a slight wobble, I'll go through the set up, maybe I'll find something out of whack. The other issue might be the weight as I have superskids, training gear, extra flybar weights and jcs sym. plasti-blades on the heli. Thanks Rick

yeah, I agree your voltages are spot on...

what pinion are you running with all that extra weight?

Also you might need to lube up the heli with 35 flights on it if you haven't done that already. Check for wire shorts in both the main motor and the tail motor also.

How long are your flight times anyway? And is it with the stock 800mAh pack? How hot is the main motor getting when you set it down?

Those are just a few of the ideas I have

Hi mrasmm, I am using the stock lipo battery that comes with the cp pro and the stock motor with the 9T pinion. I have taken the heli apart lots so lube is not a problem and I did not notice any signs of a short on the main motor wires when I finally got around to doing the fuse mod tonite. The motors do not feel that hot after a flight but I do use two heatsinks on both motors. I confess I have not broke in the motors as per the forums so maybe thats causing a problem. Also I guess what I can be noticeing with the flight times is a progression from stock heli with training gear and flybar weights to adding superskids and then to adding the plasti-blades. I haven't really accurately kept track of the time more or less a glance of my wistwatch and an observation I have noticed. Thanks Rick

ahh... sounds good.

I am running close to the same setup as you. Flat foam blades, super skids, a dual tail, training gear, extra flybar weights. I was running plasti blades, but I wanted to try out these foam blades, and I just haven't switched them off because they have been working well for me. I am also running an 8T pinion. I get about 12 min flight time on the stock pack, and put back in about 720mAh with the balancer balancing while I am charing (so probably about 660mAh is what I actually put back in).

maybe that progression of more weight meaning shorter time is what is going on =)

If you have a way to measure how much mAh is going back into your pack, you could also check that too.

There is also a small chance it could have something to do with your tail motor failing and drawing more current or something. That stock tail motor can draw up to 6.5A in a stall, and my whole setup runs on average about 4A, so an extra amp or two from the tail motor could decrase flight times quite a bit.

Anyways, I hope you get 'er figured out =) Good luck!

I spent two hours going through the heli last night, replaced the tail motor, did the fuse mod, replaced the main shaft, checked the setup, tracked the blades but then I messed around with the pitch. This morning when I went to fly I noticed I had to turn up the collective trim higher to get the tail rotor turning not really sure what to make of that maybe the three amp fuse? The other thing I noticed was I had to go full up on the collective trim and almost full on the throttle stick to get it to lift, I should have readjusted the pitch rods then but it was flying great and I was able to hover chest high and follow behind the heli while I flew around the yard for a whole pack. It did seem like I was getting alot longer flight so maybe it was partly to do with replacing the old tail motor. The second battery I was doing the same thing but then I decided to spin the heli around and try to nose in hover then Wham! dropped altitude real fast and I didn't have enough throttle stick left to accelerate out af trouble. *&_%$# now I had my first crash in a while bent the main shaft again, took out the paper clip shear pin, knocked off my tail rotor and the ball on the training gear. Not all that much damage but another couple of hours fixing and setting things up again, as for the mainshaft I'll have to start straightening them as this is the the fourth one now. Rick

I noticed the exact same thing, and at this point I've decided that it's nothing more than the extra weight from add-on's causing shorter flight times. I'm averaging about 8 minutes per pack on the stock batteries. I run superskids, titanium superboom, GWS DD tail, G90, aluminum swash & 1 pair of extra flybar weights so I know I'm weighing the bird down, probably enough to warrant a brushless main motor upgrade. One thing I did find that helped a great deal with the extra load was increasing the pitch control arm length by 1/2 turn. The little extra aggressiveness in your pitch curve will help with the added weight. Just keep in mind that it will also affect how your bird handles in idle-up.

Shafts have never been a problem for me, I've replaced 1. Probably because I stocked 5 extras in my part's drawer. Seems I never break the parts I keep multiple extras of! It's the feathering shafts that are my bane, the stock ones bend for me like they're made out of pewter. FlightTech stainless steel feathering shafts here I come... $16 a piece tho, ouch! Honestly the whole stock head on this bird makes me a teeny bit nervous. I've torn it down enough to see all the areas it needs improvement and am actually considering upgrading to a precision machined CNC aluminum head. The only thing stopping me is the $138 the head costs vs. $138 that needs to go into my TREX.

Hi xeos, I bend the mainshaft but the spindle has never been changed. I aggree the head looks weak but I have only had to replace one blade grip and a paddle control frame on it so far not bad I think as I have been warned about using plasti-blades and doing more damage(knock on wood). Flybars are another thing I have replaced a few of and three sets of stock blades before I got the plasti ones. I know what you mean about parts drawers as I tend to overdue things and have one of every part and a few of the common ones at this rate I could have bought a second cp pro. The only other conversion I think of doing on this heli is the tx as all the others I would like to do will take away money from my trex if I get a nicer heli and the tx I could use for both. The truth of the matter is this last wipeout has bummed me out a bit so I won't even work on my heli today maybe I'll get some yardwork done. My emotions are on a roller coaster lately with my love/hate relationship with my cp pro, for every three steps forward I seem to take one or more back and alas the confidence and sense of accomplishment I had flying this morning lasted two packs now I wonder will I ever learn to fly this thing. Rick

I know exactly how you feel about the CPP. It's kinda funny actually that this bird really does mimic the real thing in that it spends more time in the shop than in the air. The CPP is an incredibly touchy machine and has been quoted by many as "the toughest heli to fly." The small main rotor diameter lends to handling akin to balancing a top on a golfball that's levitating in mid-air. A somewhat tricky proposal but precisely the reason I bought the CPP BEFORE the TREX. I wanted to really push myself to the edge by fighting it out with a tough bird to fly from the start. By comparison the CPP is still a somewhat cheap bird to throw around even when tricked out & costing upwards of $500. All the time spent tearing the head down & rebuilding it is nothing but good practice as well. I run through periods of time where the CPP is just ticking me off too much to mess with and I'll take my CX2 out and bang her around the downstairs until my frustration is gone and I'm ready to address the current problem keeping my CPP grounded.

The last time I got bummed about my cp pro I got out my electric plane and flew it around a while. It always gets me smiling when I fly, maybe thats just what I need to get pumped up. I am getting really good at tearing this heli down and putting it back together, in fact from where I was last month when I bought it I think I've come a long way. I still have a very long way to go though.Thanks Rick