Well, finally got my CP Pro in and had to get my feet wet. After looking everything over and charging the battery I took her up. I haven't flown a real RC helicopter in 3-4 years and even then I wasn't good at it, so obviosly it wasn't a good idea. Anyhow, I am very impressed with this little copter. It isn't anywhere near as twitchy as people say it is. I got off several good hovers without a very good trim....I consider it good, lol..15-20 seconds at about 3 feet.

The biggest issue I was having was keeping the tail in. At lift it was trying hard to spin clockwise then in the air it'd reverse to going counterclockwise. Just need to adjust the gain and sensitivity. I had a blast and messed around for 10 or so minutes. The blades made contact with the ground right as I was on my last hover attempt...they barely touched it, but it dented the wood and peeled the mono...you think I can still fly with the blades? Or not worth the risk? Stuff peeled off fine and the dent is on the leading edge : / Really wish I had picked up blades when I got it, LHS is closed over the weekend too......

The only thing I can comment on is that I'm VERY surprised at the power this little guy has and just how much things will move if you really want them to. The only other electric I have to compare is an Aerohawk..and well, it sucked compared to this.

They need to put a warning on the box: Do not fly this the first day you get it home. Hehe, I was so anxious I almost skipped the once over, battery charge, and manual read.

I repair my blades all the time. Since the white sleeve is shrunk on the wooden blade but not stuck to it, I find it is easier to remove all the covering and recover the whole blade with Ultrakote. I sand the nicks and I even patch up the wood if the nick is too large, as long as it does not compromise the structural integrity of the blade. What's important is to balance the blades carefully before putting them back on.

First, Welcome to the frey.

Yes, the blades will still fly as Georges says. For ballancing blades, do a "Search" on here and you'll quickly find good instructions on that process.

Many on here, including myself have used [link=http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html]"RADDS School of Rotory Flight"[/link] which is an online step by step flight plan for learning to fly rc heli's while minimizing crashes and broken parts. I highly recommend it and the concept of keeping it simply, being patient and practicing one thing till your bored before going on the the next move. It takes many many battery charges to get through but it works. Best thing is it gives you a flight plan...a goal before you even plug things in. Having a plan or routine that you practice over and over, and simply add new things to as you get better, is a great way to go.

Happy landings

Dream Models also has an article on ballancing blades. Even if you don't have the exact tools yet, a little creativity will get you through the first times till you do have the tools. http://www.dream-models.com/eco/Blade_balancing.html

Heres how I fixed the covering on my CPP blades. Tore it all off and added a thin spray of primer paint. I also have the carbon fiber blades that I recommend, once you can fly the heli without crashing.

Pearl

wow, that looks pretty sharp =) I like how you can see the grain through the coat you put on it =)

nice, & it is probably just as tough as with the covering on. 2-part epoxy paint would definately make the blades stiffer & stronger, but i'm not sure about weight.

btw, how did you keep the tip weight on? or was it already glued in there?

[edit: i like the idea, but i wouldn't feel safe using those on my brushless cpp.]

Thanks mrasmm and Truglodite.

Hellion, most people hate and think the CPP is a total ripoff, cause all they do is crash it. You already flown yours and seem to be very happy with it. The covering on the wooden blades on my heli was coming off during flight, so the best thing for me was to remove the covering and find an alternative. If your like me and all you wanna do is hover and simple forward and backward flight, then you don't need the covering on the blades. Like Truglodite says, if you have a brushless motor and intrested in 3D flight, you may wanna avoid useing the non-covered blades and insert the carbon fiber blades or re-cover your stock blades for strength. As for the tail of the heli not staying in 1 place, you may need to purchase the Heading Lock Gyro to keep heli steady, otherwise it will yaw left or right. The Locking Gyro will also burn your tailmotor up much faster. I went the cheap way and did without the Locking Gyro and correct the yaw with the radio sticks during flight.

Truglodite, I never saw a weight in the blades and never knew they had weights. I guess they were already installed.

Happy Flying

Pearl

i might try and remove it and then stain with a poly urithane then coat. would look good and be strong but then again the weight issue. will let you know what i think

there is a metal rod implanted in the underside near the LE tip of the wood blades. you can see it through the covering, but it's very easy to see once the covering is off.

atcspaul, i suggest weighing & cging the blades as you coat them (while wet). pu coatings don't go on well in multiple coats; you usually have bonding issues going over cured coats, even with sanding. otherwise you'll have to use tape on your beautiful blades.

-kev

I looked at the blades Trug and still can't see a rod or any weights, although it does look like something was inserted, cause I can see that the blades are not made of 1 piece of wood. No biggie I'll take your word for it.

After I finish wearing out the new motors I installed in my CPP, I'll retire it to the shelf and seeking a harder heli to fly. I was thinking of the Trex, but any 3 year old can fly that thing blind folded. Could you help me find the hardest heli on planet earth to fly, so I can continue my success and not be bored.

Thanks

Pearl




Heading Lock Gyro = No talent required.