Hello everyone. I know that this is probably not the right forum for this question, but all of my friends are here, and I know that many of you own FP Helis.

Here is my situation. I am a dedicated CX2 flyer. I love my CX2's and will always have at least one of them around to get my Heli Jones out during the long, cold Michigan winter. That being said, many of you also know that I am working on a TREX. It is actually alomost done and I think that I will be able to take her for her maiden flight here in about a week or so!

Unfortunately, the weather won't be conducive to outdoor flight very much longer; and, though I do have a large space to fly in at work, this area is really only accessible on weekends.

I have been seriously considering picking up a decent fixed pitch, single-rotor Heli to practice on inside during the winter. I do have a simulator, but I want practice on something real as well.

I want this Heli to run on LiPos. I want something with plenty of power and a brushless motor. It would also be nice if I could fly it with my DX7 (even though I would probably have to pick up another Ar6100 Rx). I want to stay away from ANY heli that uses a separate motor for the tail rotor. I want either belt drive or shaft drive for the tail.

Sooo.... Any recommendations for this kind of Heli? Got any links to reputable online suppliers?

Well, the Walkera#4/Falcon40 are the same bird. The ESKY HBFP is real close (many of the same parts).

www.ushobbysupply.com

for obvious reasons.


PM me we can chat about combos and such.

Okay. PM Sent.

Anyone out there have experience with any of these Helis?

HBFP seems to be really popular..though i'ver heard the Falcon40 and WalkeraDF4/Sabre as quite similar
w/ interchageable parts.

I wish i can tell you how the HBFP is...but i can't even fly it...

like you im still stuck on my CX2[got 2]..

I upgraded to SuperSkids as that was the first thing i broke...i bought 2 pairs of main rotor and 3 of the tail but
it really seems sturdy and has not even broken those...i though it would be like the CX..where the rotor
would brush lightly and it shatters into pieces but its not like that at all....im even thinking of selling the spare
blades as i don't think i would even break what i have on it now..

i keep hearing people put upgraded blades like the kyosho m42 or GWS blades...and even wood blades etc.
Orion brushed motor. this is basically for perfromance..and also GWS direct drive tail..etc..im going to that path eventually as im just doing research for now..

also i have a Blade CP but i would advise you not on those...unless you have $$ to spend plenty of time on your hands on replacement parts while you learn on it.

an FP indoors would be great plus they are simple/quick/ and cheap to operate..u can use your CX batteries on them as well...but no Aluminum to upgrade to.

Okay Xtreme guys....time to build parts for the Fixed Pitch heli's as well! I'm at some point adding the Walkera #4 and would love to see some CNC goodies for it.

Kamov,

Thanks for your thoughts. I figure that any practice I do on a single rotor Heli (be it FP or CCPM) can only help me with flying the TREX.

hey all,

the hbfp version 4 / falcon 40 / walkera4#4 is the best for learning! - they are all about the same - the hbfpv4 has a 2 inch longer tail than the walkera #4 (for better tail power/control), dunno about the falcon 40

follow my fp setup instructions (about 30 minutes) and you'll be holding the tail and hovering in no time - it is all about setup and trimming

1) - take it out of the box and start charging the lipo - while it is charging, start familiarizing yourself with the head - pull the ring-like linkages from the rotor head and remove the rotor head from the bird - check out the bearings - get the blades aligned, tighten them up slightly and check for balance using the same trick as the cx2 balls - make sure they can move in the rotor head just like the cx2 with grips (same concepts apply to both birds), check for mold flash, etc

2) check out the flybar - the paddles are actually little wings - they have to be exactly flat to the heli, and locate and familiarize yourself with the 'control frame' where the flybar shaft goes through - see how the swashplate links to the flybar control frame and thus twists the flybar, making the little flybar wings pitch up and down - this is the most important thing about the flybar, cause after your first crash the paddles will get skewed and the heli won't fly flat, just as if you had a bent flybar on the cx2

3) - put the rotor head with the blades back on - set it in place and use pliers to pop the bearings into the holes - when the lipo is ready, power up the transmitter and power up the bird - the green light is the same as on the cx2 - remove the linkages from the swashplate to the flybar - spin up slowly and check the tracking on the blades and flybar and get them perfect - this is your stability, just like on the cx2 and just as important - rehook the swashplate to flybar linkages (watch out for longer and shorter linkages on some variants - stick with the shorter ones for now), spin up and get the swash flat - this is like the swash on the cx2 and the heli reacts the same to a non-flat swashplate - adjust the servo linkages to get the swashplate flat with 0 trims on the tx

4) you may want to do some crashproof mods, like installing superskids (a bit heavy but totally worth it - leave off the fins, use the wire tailboom support, leave the battery hanger pins long and shove them forward to protect the 4-in-1, ca the joints to make it sturdy) - change out the carbon fiber flybar stick for a metal one, and add some collars for extra control - make a spring steel or plastic tail rotor protector

and enjoy! - you will crash a lot at first, but the little bird will take it in stride - just straighten everything out and keep on flying

note: the blades can be broken - don't sell off your old blades - when you lose your fp's tail rotor or break the little studs off or the whole tail gear and rotor vanishes mysteriously, the cp tail rotor will replace the fp tail rotor


edge

yes, those are scars from crashing on top of the rotor head - shows how much crap this little heli can take and keep on flying

Thanks for that detailed response. It does appear that I will be getting one of the three models you mentioned. I will be sure to follow your instructions when the package is in my hand!

michael at ushobbysupply carries the walkera4#4 ready to fly - order a set of superskids at the same time - cheap and effective, and he has the spares you will need

my hbk2 arrived today and i just ordered it saturday - thanks mr b!


edge

cx2cp+

thanks for all those pointers...maybe thats what im missing..havent really done any of those..just so excited to fly it and in the process broke the landing gear on d 1st try.

ok i'll keep the blades just in case...

i like the wire protector mod that you have...maybe i was just lucky not breaking the rear tail yet.. but the main rotors are quite sturdy

Bry keep us up to date as well and hopefully we all progres beyond coaxials..but .i wont give up on them just yet...

Like I said, I will ALWAYS have a coaxial around just for the fun of flying it and tinkering with a (relatively) simple machine.

i went with the superskids after i broke off my last spare skid set (for the cp no less, i had already done in the fp's) - just makes you sick how cheap they are made - superskids are the best thing to stop problems - the walkera4 from ushobbysupply came with nimh batteries - i used the cx2 lipos instead and they work great but you have to change the battery holder to take the cx2 velcro mod - i almost threw the nimh's away until i realized i had four good batteries just sitting there, so i stuck velcro on them but they are very heavy and screw up the balance unless you practically skid mount them - i use them in the honey bee instead because the mount there is a lot easier to get to with the canopy on and i made it so it can take either nimh with bottom velcro, or lipos with top velcro

i just finished taking 'the bee' (hbfp) and the dog ('mariner' cx2) out for a 3-battery walk - the bee did very well in the 5mph steady wind and it stayed out of the trees this time, but the dog had some problems with ff into the wind, it kept getting some sideways mixed in with the forward - i had just turned it around and was whipping it back upwind when i heard a big "twang" - it had drifted off the road and hit the car antenna! - i don't think it ever knew what hit it - the stock flybar actually came out with the flybar screw still in place! - and the flybar is still perfect, which is very weird - i guess it stretched it back out straight lol - but, a couple of blades, some ca, and some tlc and she'll be just as good as new - i love the cx2 - more videos coming i promise - i get a good laugh watching myself screw up and i need a good laugh too after the expensive micron ate itself - i finally broke down and ordered the parts to fix the micron, but now i'm really stoney broke what with the hbk2 and the palm-sized walkera 3d - if the tiny 3d walkera is sturdier than the micron and about the same size, i'll probably just sell the micron or pass it on to one of the gkids from santa

enjoy your fp!


edge

I've got the Falcon 40 and it is one tough bird. I'm a terrible pilot, but it keeps coming back for more. I have managed to break one blade.
I have never taken things apart as suggested - I'm roughing it. Yes, I know better, but I spend too much time on the CX. In fact when you read Kamov's piece you would be reading mine too. Pretty much line for line I agree. And I even fly it with the CX power packs. and bigger packs are better. The Falcon wants an 8.4 volt 650 mah / 10c pack, but it flies fine with a 7.4 v pack. The Nimh stock pack weighs about 4 pounds - OK, so it weighs 83.7 grams, but it will handle that weight easily. You can also use the Blade CP battery for extra punch.
The Falcon will run well with the Blade CP main motor and the tail motor. In fact, the Cp tail motor is an upgrade from stock.
I have the super skids on mine and they do stabilize the whole works. Heavy, but with a lip pack, you can get back to stock weight. As a beginner the NiMH packs are fine. They charge quickly and they aren't fussy like Lipo packs.

If you go with the Falcon I can send information that you will find useful. I think that it applies to the Walkera also, but no guarantees. IF I was buying a new heli, I'd talk to Michael at US HOBBY SUPPLY right here on this forum. He's on our side of the Mississippi so shipping is quick and cheap(er) than the west coast suppliers. And I have no reason at all not to get the Walkera heli. As always, get what is supported locally. If you have support for the Eflight CP, you'll have the tail boom, both motors and landing gear. If you go with super skids, you just took care of those problems in one kit.

I like the specs you set for the heli of your dreams. Good luck with that. Being able to fly with a DX7 would be great, but unless you replace some of the innards of the FP heli, you're stuck. On the other side of that, the Falcon comes with a sim cord. Two free downloads and you have a sim using the same Tx you fly with.

Hmmm. This is getting long winded. Sorry.
Soloboss

Thanks, soloboss. I've been PM-ing with Michael back and forth today discussing this. It sounds as if Michael has a lot of positive experience with the Walkera 4 and it seems that his service is top notch (I ordered the Xtreme Upgrade from him today ), so I am leaning in that direction, with a few possible modifications. I'm thinking of going brushless with an AR6100 Rx so I can fly it with my DX7. Do you think that's overkill for something like a Walkera, or will I be happier with brushless?

At our altitude, I think that brushless is an unrequired expense. The heli has a bunch of lift without the extra punch. Some like to 'get it all' and for them there is nothing less that will do.
To help feed your alloy habit, here's a link http://www.geocities.com/pierrehollis/mh3.htm You may find something useful there.

If you are going to the Walkera and it's the same as a Falcon 40 which is the same as an EF Sabre, I can send an information document to you if you like. It's from a friend in Albuqueque - about a mile high with thin air. He has some tricks to allow him to fly at that altitude as the stock heli won't lift out of ground effect. It's nothing earth shaking, but you may find parts of it useful. I'd post it here, but this is the wrong forum. PM me with an email address and I'll send you the document. I think that most of the stuff mentioned is available from Michael.
Soloboss

somewhat boring hover in the wind with esky honey bee fixed pitch (2 inches longer tail than the walkera 4) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9p3An4r0ai8

forward flight / chase - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8hPbxlhI1k


edge

As BryFlyGuy67 and I have discovered, its not such an easy thing to just go brushless on the #4. If you loose the stock 4&1 to go seperates, you loose the gyro, mixer and tail esc. Those all have to be put back in to run a seperate rx. You can leave the stock 4&1 and go with a brush2less converter, BL esc and BL main. Brushless tail IMHO never worked for me and is even more expensive.

i understand the receiver problem - you could swap the walkera's 4-in-1 for a cp's 3-in-1 (might not work exactly right because of the cp's ccpm though) but that would let you use the other receiver - or you could just use the stock tx while learning then move up to a hbk2 arf


edge

hey all - broke the balls off the flybar control frame on the rotor head on the esky hbfp this morning and the walkera version doesn't fit (too small) , been looking for a fix

i just found out the dynam hughes 300 rotor head parts match the walkera 4's, and the skids, etc, are the same as the cp, although some parts are white - the white blades also are a match to the walkera's

and the radio in the dynam hughes 300 is a separate rx and 3-in-1 !!!!! - yippee - it will work with the dx6i or dx7 by changing out the receiver

so get the walkera 4, and a dynam 3-in-1 then start crashing!!!



edge

no issue with the ccpm, because the ccpm is in the transmitter =) If you use a non-ccpm transmitter then you can use the 3 in 1 and/or the receiver from the blade and it will pretty much drop right in =)

yay - i've even got a spare cp+ 4-in-1 - what about the esc's, they got enough moxie to run a fp? - wouldn't want to ruin the 4-in-1 pushing those big ole heavy fp blades around at the cp's head speed

the dynam 3-in-1 is working ok right now, so i'm not going to nuke it yet for the cp 4-in-1, but if i smoke (or bust in a crash) this cheap dynam 3-in-1 i'll look at the cp's


edge

should be good to go. If you take the FP's 4 in 1 apart and give me some part numbers I'll let you know for sure =) Look for an 8 pin dip package, off of memory it's something like a 4401 or something.

4410. Only one present on this board.

good info there =)

I was close on the part number but didn't quite get it. It looks like you're looking at either 10A or 11.1A w/heatsink for each chip depending on the mfg =)

so the cp series uses a 7413 which is rated at 9A each with a heatsink, and there are two of them on the main rotor channel, so you're looking at 18A w/heatsink, and something like 10 to 12 without =)

I'm looking to get a single rotor when the weather gets nicer, seeing a lot of nice things here about the Walkera#4, but USHobbySupply only has a Walkera #5-5 and a 5#6 (can anyone explain their model number system?). Both of them seem to being of palm-sized variety; is that was the #4 is?