Just some pics and stuff...
#1
Thread Starter
Member
My Feedback: (2)
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Channahon,
IL
I was bored and thought I'd share a few photos. 
I just bought these over the weekend. 40 uppers, 40 lowers, and an extended inner shaft.

Nothing keeps a woman happier than always having lots of back-up parts, so there won't ever be a reason for you to not be able to annoy the crap out of them, while they're watching the Lifetime Network.

Some random pics of me and my CX2.




And two videos I posted.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCALOHaYies
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3JZd5sB55k
And I keep all of these just for fun... and the memories. Thats only half of what I've got already in only 3 months.

I just bought these over the weekend. 40 uppers, 40 lowers, and an extended inner shaft.

Nothing keeps a woman happier than always having lots of back-up parts, so there won't ever be a reason for you to not be able to annoy the crap out of them, while they're watching the Lifetime Network.

Some random pics of me and my CX2.




And two videos I posted.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCALOHaYies
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3JZd5sB55k
And I keep all of these just for fun... and the memories. Thats only half of what I've got already in only 3 months.

#2
Nice collection. And I thought I had supply of blades! Looks like you're set for life.
Did you go right to an alu lower rotor head or break a few, along with blades, before you switched? I'm on my third lower head now (and several fractured blades) but wanted to stay with plastic to keep the weight down. Am considering upgrading and sacrifice weight for durability. Plastic's cheap--until you keep buying enough of them to pay for one or two aluminum ones.
Does anyone know if you're more likely to tweak a shaft or break gear teeth with an alu lower head, as opposed to having the plastic head take the brunt of the shock?
Did you go right to an alu lower rotor head or break a few, along with blades, before you switched? I'm on my third lower head now (and several fractured blades) but wanted to stay with plastic to keep the weight down. Am considering upgrading and sacrifice weight for durability. Plastic's cheap--until you keep buying enough of them to pay for one or two aluminum ones.
Does anyone know if you're more likely to tweak a shaft or break gear teeth with an alu lower head, as opposed to having the plastic head take the brunt of the shock?
#3
Thread Starter
Member
My Feedback: (2)
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Channahon,
IL
wow, thats crazy that you said that because ever since i've had the aluminum heads ive took two teeth out of two gears already. and i bought it just to upgrade for fun. only thing ive ever really broken is blades, landing gear, and a body. i was sick of buying a pack of rotors every week so i said f**k it and just bought 20 packs for $80. now i just need to find a gymnasium to fly in.
#4

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 729
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Indianapolis,
IN
Thin - You will certainly bend a shaft before you will break gear teeth. I 've replaced 3 outer and 4 inner shafts and only lost 1 gear tooth. I have been running athe alum upper and lower now since I broke my first plastic ones. They are worth every penny. As far as weight goes you'll barely notice. stock lower is .97g eflite alum is 2.47. It is a gain but you can drop wight elsewhere to compensate. For example the xtreme 180bb motors run great in the CX2 and are 2g lighter then stock with heat sink. WWW.boomtownhobbies.com taliboom is 8g complared to the stock rear body which is 11g there's 3 more.
McLrn - Wow impressive. I have purchased quite a few blades but not anything like that. I am suprised you have kept the jet ranger body looking so good with all those broken blades or is that the good side you photoed

Good looking heli.
McLrn - Wow impressive. I have purchased quite a few blades but not anything like that. I am suprised you have kept the jet ranger body looking so good with all those broken blades or is that the good side you photoed


Good looking heli.
#5
Thread Starter
Member
My Feedback: (2)
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Channahon,
IL
well, you cant see in the close up pictures, but i found a cool mod for the jet ranger body. it comes with new pegs that keep it in place relative to the frame. those vibrate loose about a minute or two into flight and then the body wiggles around and gets scratched up. while i was making holes for my lights I used a Dremel to make the peg holes bigger and can now use the rubber grommets from the stock body to hold the jet ranger body on better.
#6
Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Rochester,
NY
ORIGINAL: McLrn227
well, you cant see in the close up pictures, but i found a cool mod for the jet ranger body. it comes with new pegs that keep it in place relative to the frame. those vibrate loose about a minute or two into flight and then the body wiggles around and gets scratched up. while i was making holes for my lights I used a Dremel to make the peg holes bigger and can now use the rubber grommets from the stock body to hold the jet ranger body on better.
well, you cant see in the close up pictures, but i found a cool mod for the jet ranger body. it comes with new pegs that keep it in place relative to the frame. those vibrate loose about a minute or two into flight and then the body wiggles around and gets scratched up. while i was making holes for my lights I used a Dremel to make the peg holes bigger and can now use the rubber grommets from the stock body to hold the jet ranger body on better.
#7
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: S. Lyon, MI
Did you get a discount for buying so many, or did you buy all 20 packs at the normal price of $4? I couldn't imagine dropping $80 plus tax for blades... Ok, I guess I could, but still, thats nuts.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: GARDEN CITY,
KS
You strip gear teeth when You don't shut it down in an immenent crash. If You goose it trying to save it and it hits something, they will strip. The heli's can take alot of abuse going straight down; esp. with unbreakable skids; so let it go.
You also strip teeth when the mesh isn't tight enough; people tend to overslop them, being afraid of too tight and losing power. You should have very, very little backlash on the sloppiest section of the gear, and rotating to the tighter side (they are never perfectly round) you should have next to nothing. Don't fret, the pinion and plastic gear will wear in within 2 flights and mate perfectly loosening up a bit more. You should have more slop in the vertical end play of the shafts; that's a real power thieve.
Your first photo demonstrates how many broken blades I've saved by getting the XTREME GRIPS and blades; I've been flying months now and have broke 3. Don't know if they will work with the bell canopy, though; they come very close to striking it, I found.
Gary
You also strip teeth when the mesh isn't tight enough; people tend to overslop them, being afraid of too tight and losing power. You should have very, very little backlash on the sloppiest section of the gear, and rotating to the tighter side (they are never perfectly round) you should have next to nothing. Don't fret, the pinion and plastic gear will wear in within 2 flights and mate perfectly loosening up a bit more. You should have more slop in the vertical end play of the shafts; that's a real power thieve.
Your first photo demonstrates how many broken blades I've saved by getting the XTREME GRIPS and blades; I've been flying months now and have broke 3. Don't know if they will work with the bell canopy, though; they come very close to striking it, I found.
Gary



