Pitch is set fine.
I put the 400 on a table with a board trough the landing gear and hold it down. I'm viewing from about 3 feet from blade tip. I can see that at 3/4 throttle the one blade is higher. I can't tell which is higher. Do you try to look at the blade from the top or from side or angle down at the top? Anyway I could see which it is better? I can see one is highter about 1/4 inch on the end as it spins.

Darticus,
I'm far from an expert at this, but I had to go through my Belt CP after a collision with the ceiling. I started from scratch and as I went I got my work verified. But I missed something, so maybe there's something here that will help.

Tracking is viewed from the edge of the rotor disk. It's like looking at the EDGE of a round pizza stone. You want safety glasses on, and you are looking at the blade tip as it comes at your face (from a safe distance).

At half throttle you should be at zero pitch. You can check that with the motors disconnected (pull any two motor wires). Put the throttle at mid point and trim BOTH blades for zero pitch.

Mark the leading edge of one blade with tape or something that will be visible at high rpm. White Out works fine
Either mark both blades with different colors or just mark one blade.
Mark the leading edge of the blade(s) near the tip.
I place a bright light behind me so it shines over my shoulder to illuminate the mark on the blade.
Now look at that blade edge as you bring up the rpm.
Both blades should look like a single knife edge.

If you see two tracks, the blades are out of track. That means that one blade has more pitch than the other AT THAT RPM. The marker you put on one blade should be visible and that allows you to see which blade is higher.
As you look at the blades they should be straight out. If one is low, it needs more pitch. If one is high, it needs less pitch. Again, with zero pitch, both blades should be dead flat level.

Here's the part I messed up. When I replaced the feathering shaft I over tightened it. The flybar must be free to move - free to pivot easily. Maybe if you have a LHS, you could ask them for a tip on how tight is correct. Anyhow, I overtightened my shaft and every time I adjusted the blade pitch and checked tracking it was different. And my cyclic control was pretty slow. That was caused by the feathering shaft being too tight.

Was anything in there worth the trouble? I hope so. If I can help someone on a CP machine, I'm getting better.

Soloboss

I just wanted to add make sure your swasplate is level from bottom stick to top stick. Then I use a pitch gauge to get the right degree of pitch. If you don't have one tracking tape works good. I just increase the lower blade until it tracks with the other blade.

Nick

+1 to what was said. Make sure to first have all your servos at 90 degrees and horizontal. Then your swash should be level and your washout arms. Do what Solo said and disconnect your motor, it will not work in Throttle Hold (I tried, lots of issues). Put it into Idle up to do all this. Set your blades to 0 pitch at mid stick. Then unplug the battery, reconnect the motor, turn off idle up, plug in the battery and put a sharpie mark on one blade. Then spin it up to mid stick. Raise the low blade higher.
Sokal11 on youtube has about 20 videos on how to do all this. Worth watching.

Thanks xyster101, evdreamer, soloboss
I used the info you posted and also placed a spotlight about 3 feet from the blades. I see it all! The red taped blade with red marker on the end was the low blade, than after some turns it became the high blade. Than after some fine tuning they became the same. Actually the link was shortened one full turn to make it right. Won't get to try it till tomorrow but hope it makes the fly time better. Thanks Ron