G90 Gyro on CPP
#2

Hey Jrizzle,
Well, I had one on my CPP, and stole it to use on my Gaui 200...but I ordered another one for the CPP...so that should tell ya something!
It helps alot, but don't expect miracles, either. It will keep the tail much more stable, but mine still had that tendancy to just flip the tail out 45 or 50 degrees with no warning. Overall, though, it is much more stable with the G110/G90 than without.
It is much more effective with a new tail motor. Helps alot. With a new motor, and some tweaking of the gyro and 3 in 1, it is pretty nice to fly.
Speaking of tweaking, expect to do alot of that. It's not really like the CPP manual says, and just turn the 3 in 1's gyro pot all the way down, to "disable" it.
I got the best results with a LOT of experimentation mixing the 3 in 1 pot, and the pot on the gyro as well. When you finally do get it close, it doesn't take much turning on the pots to get it dialed in.
I didn't realize how much it did until I took it out of the loop one day as an experiment. The gyro DOES HELP, for sure!
I never did get the tail "locked in" by any stretch of the imagination. But, alot better? Yes!!
Hope this helps. Let us know how you make out with it. I am dusting off my CPP as is Evedreamer, we are going to give them another shot!!
BTW, how's the Quark flying lately?
Glenn
Well, I had one on my CPP, and stole it to use on my Gaui 200...but I ordered another one for the CPP...so that should tell ya something!
It helps alot, but don't expect miracles, either. It will keep the tail much more stable, but mine still had that tendancy to just flip the tail out 45 or 50 degrees with no warning. Overall, though, it is much more stable with the G110/G90 than without.
It is much more effective with a new tail motor. Helps alot. With a new motor, and some tweaking of the gyro and 3 in 1, it is pretty nice to fly.
Speaking of tweaking, expect to do alot of that. It's not really like the CPP manual says, and just turn the 3 in 1's gyro pot all the way down, to "disable" it.
I got the best results with a LOT of experimentation mixing the 3 in 1 pot, and the pot on the gyro as well. When you finally do get it close, it doesn't take much turning on the pots to get it dialed in.
I didn't realize how much it did until I took it out of the loop one day as an experiment. The gyro DOES HELP, for sure!
I never did get the tail "locked in" by any stretch of the imagination. But, alot better? Yes!!
Hope this helps. Let us know how you make out with it. I am dusting off my CPP as is Evedreamer, we are going to give them another shot!!
BTW, how's the Quark flying lately?
Glenn
#3

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From: Lincoln,
NE
Like Rotarydoc said I am bringing my CPP back and putting a G90 on it. Rotarydoc and me are going to put the GWS DD motor on and see how that goes. I am getting a seperate ESC for the tail motor, so I don't have to mess with the gyro on the 3in1. I think that was some of my problems with my last attempt. I should have my G90 by the 5th.
Nick
Nick
#4
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Yeah I guess I dont expect a locked in tail feeling, but I would like a tad more trust of my tail. Thanks for the imput. Part of my love for the CPP is that you have to "FLY" the tail and it takes some skill. There are alot of frustrated CPP pilots that just want to get forward flight down. LOL The Quark is still stable is ever.
#6

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From: Lincoln,
NE
I think the main problem with the tail holding on the CPP is the gyro in the 3in1 and a semi weak tail motor. I have seen people do 3D with a CPP and none of them were using the stock gyro and their tails held like my T-Rex does with a GY401. I have seen the new tail motor for the CPP2 on www.eboyztoyz.com and I have seen the videos of the CPP2. I think the tail holds pretty good with the DD motor and G110 on the CPP2.
Nick
Nick
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From: Tucson,
AZ
I just made the move from the CX2 to the CP+ last Friday. My first test flight was nerve racking. Trying to get it to hover was like trying to walk a greased tight rope. I think it took me at least 8 take off attempt to get it to hover in one spot for 3 seconds. Right off the bat I noticed the "tail" was the hardest thing to get under control. It took constant movement of the stick to get it under control.
The very next day I went to the LHS and purchased the G110 Heading lock Gyro. It was like night and day. After some tweaking to the proportional mixer and gyro gain. The bird will now lift off and stay in the position I desire it to. Oh yea....after you install the Gyro and disable the proportional mixer like the instructions say. You "will" need to go back and make adjustments to the proportional mixer. You'll find this out after your first test flight.
Like rotarydoc said. It won't hold the heli rock solid steady. But it will help "tremedously". You will at least be able to hover and keep the nose oriented in the direction you desire with small control inputs.
I was also told that the direct drive rear rotor will help with a more direct feel for the tail controls. I have mine on order. Should be arriving any day now.
Hope this help! Good luck!
The very next day I went to the LHS and purchased the G110 Heading lock Gyro. It was like night and day. After some tweaking to the proportional mixer and gyro gain. The bird will now lift off and stay in the position I desire it to. Oh yea....after you install the Gyro and disable the proportional mixer like the instructions say. You "will" need to go back and make adjustments to the proportional mixer. You'll find this out after your first test flight.
Like rotarydoc said. It won't hold the heli rock solid steady. But it will help "tremedously". You will at least be able to hover and keep the nose oriented in the direction you desire with small control inputs.
I was also told that the direct drive rear rotor will help with a more direct feel for the tail controls. I have mine on order. Should be arriving any day now.
Hope this help! Good luck!
#8
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From: Sac,
CA
hey guys, it's been a while since i've lurked these forums, so i just wanted to get up to speed with any changes or new discoveries that ppl are using on their cpp tails. a little background: a bit over a year ago i was active in researching tail options, which included gwsdd, g90, g90+3n1, brushless dd, and even brushless geared. the ultimate setup at the time was known as the "john adam's" cpp, which was actually published in rc heli.
i still have my cpp setup ja style, with a dd motor, g90, 3n1, and a few physical mods including lowered landing struts, shortened boom, and reversed hiller linkage. i've noticed many ppl confidently saying they use the g90 with the 3n1 propo. iirc, the ja setup also used some 3n1 gain as well. i still fly my ja-cpp, but still haven't been able to come close to "trex" locked in like some ppl have mentioned.
anyone have a link to a guide, or any good info on a way to adjust the 3 potis (g90 gain, 3n1 propo, and 3n1 gain) to get a good 3d capable lock on the tail?
also, is that new eflight dd tail motor any different than the gws HD motors we were using a year ago, or is it just an eflight rebadging?
thanks in advance,
kev
[edit: fyi, i also have a berg7p, himax 2015-4100 w/ 8T, phx10, and a tp3s730... the standard cpp steroids.
]
i still have my cpp setup ja style, with a dd motor, g90, 3n1, and a few physical mods including lowered landing struts, shortened boom, and reversed hiller linkage. i've noticed many ppl confidently saying they use the g90 with the 3n1 propo. iirc, the ja setup also used some 3n1 gain as well. i still fly my ja-cpp, but still haven't been able to come close to "trex" locked in like some ppl have mentioned.
anyone have a link to a guide, or any good info on a way to adjust the 3 potis (g90 gain, 3n1 propo, and 3n1 gain) to get a good 3d capable lock on the tail?
also, is that new eflight dd tail motor any different than the gws HD motors we were using a year ago, or is it just an eflight rebadging?
thanks in advance,
kev
[edit: fyi, i also have a berg7p, himax 2015-4100 w/ 8T, phx10, and a tp3s730... the standard cpp steroids.
]
#9

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From: Lincoln,
NE
I am going to do the same thing as John Adams, but I am going to use a GWS brushed ESC for the tail and see how that goes. I should get my parts by tuesday.
I have no idea if the E-Flite motor is the same as the GWS one.
Nick
I have no idea if the E-Flite motor is the same as the GWS one.
Nick
#10
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From: Moon Township, PA
I had my CPP on a DX6i and a G90 and the tail held great. Got a B400 ARF and took the G90 off for that set up. Dont know why but I had to put the G90 in reverse on the B400 or it spun like a top. Every thing else is stock. Since I took the G90 off the cpp It is colecting dust. Can not get the tail to hold at all. Tried revo mixing and nothing helps to hold the cpp tail. I have the new tail setup off the CPP2 on order for two or 3 months now. As soon as that arives I will look for a gyro also to put back on it.
Carl
Carl
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From: Sac,
CA
after looking at the eflight cpp2 videos, it looks like it's doing fine with the g110 alone. so for now i'll stick with "disabling" the rate gyro on my 3n1. when i make it to the lhs next, i'll pick up a 2n1 to shave a few grams off.
carl,
the stock tail should hold ok for farting around if the motor is good and the 3/4n1 is setup right. maybe your tail motor is going south?
fyi, revo mixing on your tx is basically the "cadillac" version of using the proportional on your 3n1. both accomplish the same thing (both increase tail rpm proportional to rotor rpm), but the proportional poti only tunes to one point on the throttle curve, and revo can be tuned to several points (5points for most newer tx's). anyhow, if you are using revo, make sure to turn proportional on your 3n1 all the way off (ccw).
imho, the best non-3d flights i've had on my cpp were with tx revo and a brushless tail (no hh, just the 3n1 rate gyro). with that setup, the tail felt absolutely locked in during aggressive ff, but of course it wasn't hh, which is necessary for the 3d stuff.
kev
carl,
the stock tail should hold ok for farting around if the motor is good and the 3/4n1 is setup right. maybe your tail motor is going south?
fyi, revo mixing on your tx is basically the "cadillac" version of using the proportional on your 3n1. both accomplish the same thing (both increase tail rpm proportional to rotor rpm), but the proportional poti only tunes to one point on the throttle curve, and revo can be tuned to several points (5points for most newer tx's). anyhow, if you are using revo, make sure to turn proportional on your 3n1 all the way off (ccw).
imho, the best non-3d flights i've had on my cpp were with tx revo and a brushless tail (no hh, just the 3n1 rate gyro). with that setup, the tail felt absolutely locked in during aggressive ff, but of course it wasn't hh, which is necessary for the 3d stuff.
kev
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From: Moon Township, PA
Truglodite
Thanks for the tip on revo mixing i printed it out and will use that info when I get my new CPP2 tail set up., i didnot know to turn the 3in 1 off to set it. I read some place that he had it set to 125 up and 125 down does that sound good or is that too much.
Carl
Thanks for the tip on revo mixing i printed it out and will use that info when I get my new CPP2 tail set up., i didnot know to turn the 3in 1 off to set it. I read some place that he had it set to 125 up and 125 down does that sound good or is that too much.
Carl
#13

jrizzle,
I stand corrected on my earlier post regarding the 3 in 1 gyro gain settings. I just got done flying my CPP with the GWS tail and the G110 gyro.
Before, when I knew alot less than I do now, LOL, I wasn't using the G110 in Heading Hold mode, just the rate mode, and was adjusting it via the potentiometer on the gyro.
This time, I turned the 3 in 1 gyro gain all the way down, and using the DX6i's gyro settings at 60% and 70% on HH mode.
It made all the difference!
Hope this helps some!
Glenn
I stand corrected on my earlier post regarding the 3 in 1 gyro gain settings. I just got done flying my CPP with the GWS tail and the G110 gyro.
Before, when I knew alot less than I do now, LOL, I wasn't using the G110 in Heading Hold mode, just the rate mode, and was adjusting it via the potentiometer on the gyro.
This time, I turned the 3 in 1 gyro gain all the way down, and using the DX6i's gyro settings at 60% and 70% on HH mode.
It made all the difference!
Hope this helps some!
Glenn



