Cx2 blade problems
#1
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From: UP North
Ive had my cx2 for about a year now and am getting pretty good with it. My question is ( and i did searh for this already and couldnt find what i am looking for ) I have the top blades tracking almost perfectly and i also have aluminum upper head, bearing holder, lower head, and swash plate, and carbon fiber tail boom, but my bottom blades WERE tracking perfectly until i nicked a wall
so i replaced them and tried 4 different sets of blades. none of them will track , they are all about an 1/8th inch off, I have balanced them, tried the boiling trick that i saw on youtube, i dont know what to do it flew sooo much better when both upper and lower tracked good. Now that the bottom are off it doesnt fly like it used too. i know theres no real adjustment for this but does any body have any seceret tricks for this?
thanks for any help ahead of time.
Troy
so i replaced them and tried 4 different sets of blades. none of them will track , they are all about an 1/8th inch off, I have balanced them, tried the boiling trick that i saw on youtube, i dont know what to do it flew sooo much better when both upper and lower tracked good. Now that the bottom are off it doesnt fly like it used too. i know theres no real adjustment for this but does any body have any seceret tricks for this?thanks for any help ahead of time.
Troy
#2
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From: spring,
TX
see if the part were the lower blades mount onto the lower head is slid down and if the non adjustable pushrods are crocked instead of strait up and down because that keeps happening to me without even crashing
#3

Hello Try,
As I hold my good old CX2 and look it over I can only see that perhaps! your swashplate might be separating. Over time I have two come apart. Though it is 2 pieces it is flared inside to keep the top and bottom half together. If that is not and issue it could be one ear on the swashplate that the linkage hooks to from the blade that "might" be part of your issue. But before you go there as I explained check that swashplate for DEAD level and rock those blades at 12-3-6-9 o-clock.
Let me know what you find.....JPee
As I hold my good old CX2 and look it over I can only see that perhaps! your swashplate might be separating. Over time I have two come apart. Though it is 2 pieces it is flared inside to keep the top and bottom half together. If that is not and issue it could be one ear on the swashplate that the linkage hooks to from the blade that "might" be part of your issue. But before you go there as I explained check that swashplate for DEAD level and rock those blades at 12-3-6-9 o-clock.
Let me know what you find.....JPee
#4
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From: UP North
ORIGINAL: JPEE
Hello Try,
As I hold my good old CX2 and look it over I can only see that perhaps! your swashplate might be separating. Over time I have two come apart. Though it is 2 pieces it is flared inside to keep the top and bottom half together. If that is not and issue it could be one ear on the swashplate that the linkage hooks to from the blade that "might" be part of your issue. But before you go there as I explained check that swashplate for DEAD level and rock those blades at 12-3-6-9 o-clock.
Let me know what you find.....JPee
Hello Try,
As I hold my good old CX2 and look it over I can only see that perhaps! your swashplate might be separating. Over time I have two come apart. Though it is 2 pieces it is flared inside to keep the top and bottom half together. If that is not and issue it could be one ear on the swashplate that the linkage hooks to from the blade that "might" be part of your issue. But before you go there as I explained check that swashplate for DEAD level and rock those blades at 12-3-6-9 o-clock.
Let me know what you find.....JPee
the swash plate has a little play in it up and down on the shaft but nothing that i would consider horrible, I did notice that the with radio switched and heli switched on the swashplate does lean to the rear of the heli and to the left, if i push the right stick forward, as if to move the heli forward in flight, it levels out, also it is pretty much level for that trim on the remote, so how do i adjust that? and also the plastic arms that connect the bottom blades to the swash plate seem to have a little play on the balls of the blades. i know stuff wears out but it was just fine litterly yesterday untill i broke the blades but it wasnt even a a bad crash it was just a knick. But i think most of it is the swash plate.
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From: lake elmo, MN
Hello, I think your problem is just the blades. I have the same problem and did everything you did to fix it. After trying a bunch of different blades I got a pair to track close. Now I just live with it.
#6
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From: UP North
Yeah i was thinkin that since it tracked before the other set broke. But i think my swashplate does need to be leveled out but i dont know the process?
#7

Hello GUY 120,
JP back at you.
http://www.heli-wiki.com/mediawiki/i..._and_CX2_Setup
Go to this site and read slowly the fix's that yo umight make.
But here is answer to your direct question. With tramitter on! the heli battery plugged in, remove the canopy hold up your CX and look down the tail towards the front and over the swashplate. Look down the tail towards the nose and you will looking over the swashplate to see if it is level. If not! then set the heli on the table. Take a ruler and stand it up at the end of the bottom blade vertically. Look where the tip of the blade hits the ruler. WITHOUT moving the ruler, turn the blade around to the tip of the other blade and see if it is at the same height. Do this from both sides of the heli as if the nose is 12 o clock and the tail 6:00 so you measure at 3:00 and 9:00.
Overall with all trims set at Zero the swash should be level. if not try adjusting the trims to make them so. Also, I just tested my CX2 and my blades are NOT tracking perfect either and YET I can hold a hover and she hangs like from a thread in a hover. So dont get caught up the tracking, yes balance and boil but your CX does not require what big collective heli need, I'll bet its your swashplate.
Last, if you need to adjust your swashplate then like said turn on the transmitter, plug in the heli and pop off the linkage rods from the servo arms up the swashplate and turn them as needed and then pop back on. Don't go any more than one turn at at time.
Let me know................JPee
JP back at you.
http://www.heli-wiki.com/mediawiki/i..._and_CX2_Setup
Go to this site and read slowly the fix's that yo umight make.
But here is answer to your direct question. With tramitter on! the heli battery plugged in, remove the canopy hold up your CX and look down the tail towards the front and over the swashplate. Look down the tail towards the nose and you will looking over the swashplate to see if it is level. If not! then set the heli on the table. Take a ruler and stand it up at the end of the bottom blade vertically. Look where the tip of the blade hits the ruler. WITHOUT moving the ruler, turn the blade around to the tip of the other blade and see if it is at the same height. Do this from both sides of the heli as if the nose is 12 o clock and the tail 6:00 so you measure at 3:00 and 9:00.
Overall with all trims set at Zero the swash should be level. if not try adjusting the trims to make them so. Also, I just tested my CX2 and my blades are NOT tracking perfect either and YET I can hold a hover and she hangs like from a thread in a hover. So dont get caught up the tracking, yes balance and boil but your CX does not require what big collective heli need, I'll bet its your swashplate.
Last, if you need to adjust your swashplate then like said turn on the transmitter, plug in the heli and pop off the linkage rods from the servo arms up the swashplate and turn them as needed and then pop back on. Don't go any more than one turn at at time.
Let me know................JPee
#9

You know what, strike all I said about measuring the blade from the gound up. I am gogin ot send you PM so wait for a monent and check your messages
JPee
JPee
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From: UP North
Well i didnt have time to call and im not home right now and dont have my heli with me, but it does hover just fine and i can still control it without a problem it just seemed to fly better when the bottom were tracking perfect and also it makes it vibrate a little bit and i can see it in the tail when hovering and that just anoys me more than anything. I guess just would like it to be perfect ( kindof a perfectionist) but i probably wont achive that with a trainer heli even with all the mods. Hope when i get a single rotor heli like the cp pro2 or maybe blade 400 these things wont be so bad I HATE VIBRATIONS on any vehicle even my real vehicles[:@]
P.S. What do you think....should i get the cp pro2 or go for the blade 400. Either one will be my first single rotor heli and i just dont want to get the cp pro2 and have it not be enough and wish i put that money towards the 400 instead.
P.S. What do you think....should i get the cp pro2 or go for the blade 400. Either one will be my first single rotor heli and i just dont want to get the cp pro2 and have it not be enough and wish i put that money towards the 400 instead.
#13

Hello ThAt GuY 120,
On the Wiki site I provied it explains how t take the twitch out by adjusting you 3-1 if I am understanding your tail issue.
Many of the guys here have had the CP Pro and spend more money replacing parts from their inherent "unstable" tail motors, they are a squirrly heli and not for the faint of heart. Everyone is waiting for the new CP to be out about Nov which is have those issues delt with this modle year. Also the parts for a CP are more expensive than those for a 400. Most everyone I know here have sold off or don't use their CP for those reasons. I have two flyable 400's and love them. Their only issue is their servos are their weak point. If you "touch" anything like a blade strike their striiped and need to be rebuilt, $4.00 but it adds up for a newbe. Short story, we rebuilt them for several times then listened to the guys with experience and moved to either the Hitec's with metal gears or the JR servos (their are others too). The Hitecs need a "little" dremal work to sqeeze them in but the JRs drop in.........but.............there is alway a but........the JRs cost more. Myself and friends here both use these and I plow the field OFTEN or "lawn dart" the heli as we say and have never had one fail! Nor have my buddies so they are worth the $135.00 -$200.00
The 400 is much larger heli so it is more stable and you can see it further away so that in and of itself makes a better flier for you. It has a "belt driven tail rotor" too and comes with a DX6i transmitter which you can program up to a total of 10 RC planes and heli in! As you grow in this HOBBY you will be buying other planes and helis and you will only have to buy the PNP (plug and play) models and you'll have command of them with one transmitter!
Hope that helps
JPee
On the Wiki site I provied it explains how t take the twitch out by adjusting you 3-1 if I am understanding your tail issue.
Many of the guys here have had the CP Pro and spend more money replacing parts from their inherent "unstable" tail motors, they are a squirrly heli and not for the faint of heart. Everyone is waiting for the new CP to be out about Nov which is have those issues delt with this modle year. Also the parts for a CP are more expensive than those for a 400. Most everyone I know here have sold off or don't use their CP for those reasons. I have two flyable 400's and love them. Their only issue is their servos are their weak point. If you "touch" anything like a blade strike their striiped and need to be rebuilt, $4.00 but it adds up for a newbe. Short story, we rebuilt them for several times then listened to the guys with experience and moved to either the Hitec's with metal gears or the JR servos (their are others too). The Hitecs need a "little" dremal work to sqeeze them in but the JRs drop in.........but.............there is alway a but........the JRs cost more. Myself and friends here both use these and I plow the field OFTEN or "lawn dart" the heli as we say and have never had one fail! Nor have my buddies so they are worth the $135.00 -$200.00
The 400 is much larger heli so it is more stable and you can see it further away so that in and of itself makes a better flier for you. It has a "belt driven tail rotor" too and comes with a DX6i transmitter which you can program up to a total of 10 RC planes and heli in! As you grow in this HOBBY you will be buying other planes and helis and you will only have to buy the PNP (plug and play) models and you'll have command of them with one transmitter!
Hope that helps
JPee
#14
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From: UP North
Thanks much that was very helpful info. The tail isue I have is just vibrations traveling down the tail, though it does twitch a little. Also it sounds like the 400 might be be a better choice are the parts really cheapr than those for a cp? Maybe an example part with cost for both.
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From: UP North
Hmm sounds crazy but sometimes weird price things like that happen. Well like I said, I'm pretty decent with cx2 and its time to move on it has taught me the basics that I need to know, so I think right now the 400 is sounding like the way to go any other info about pros and cons between the two is still welcomed
#17

ThAt GuY120
I'll close and add, get yourself a SIM (simulator) G4's are very popular as is Pheniox. Most of my freinds like I have the G4 at $200.00 but it will save you so much money in repairs down the line.
When I was where you are at I told the LHS geeks (local hobby shop) I was ready for a 400. He asked if I could do figure 8's in my livingroom, No I replied. He said go home!
I came back after mastering fig 8's and flying fast backwards. Then he said OK now your ready for a G4. Every time you crash on your computer you save a minimum of $35-65.00 in not buying parts for your heli. Well it paid off very fast.
Once I got good on the SIM I went back in. He had my fly there and saw my skills and replied YOUR READY. One might argue he was sell me a line so I would buy the G4 but he was dead on.
Good Luck......JPee



