Hello,

I just went over the head/blade setup and while doing that I noticed that some of the ball-links are rather stiff ... what am I supposed to use for lubing these ? is silicon spray ok for that ?

also, is it ok to use WD-40 on the shaft or do i need a specific type of oil ?


finally ... for loctite, i get that i'm supposed to use the blue loctite for metal-metal fastener connections (Blade 400 bible)... but what is CA ? (for metal to plastic)


can't wait to have the heli all setup so i can finally try flying it !! (bought it used and been tinkering with it for a week to get rid of shaking/wobbling/spinning out of control)

thanks!

You don't need to lube the ball links. There is a tool called a ball link sizer and is normally around $5 and you use that to make the hole bigger in the link, so it moves easier. You can also fly with it like that and the link will size itself over time.

I wouldn't recommend WD-40 on the mainshaft. It will probably collect dust and dirt and make it hard for the parts to move up and down easily. Tri-Flow works pretty good and doesn't collect dust. You could also use a polisher from time to time. That would probably be the best way to go. I just don't put anything on the shafts.

You are correct that CA is for metal to plastic. I don't normally put CA on screws going into plastic unless it is a part that is hard to check if it is tight.

Nick

Thanks for the info Nick, I really appreciate it. One thing though, about CA, I was trying to find out what CAwas... I know that i'm supposed to use CA but I have no idea what CAis

CA is the abbreviation for Cyanoacrylate. It is the generic name for cyanoacrylate based fast-acting glues such as methyl 2-cyanoacrylate, ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate (commonly sold under trade names like The Original Super Glue and Krazy Glue).

Don't use WD-40 on anything on your heli, or fine machinery, guns etc. It leaves a residue over time and it's really not oil at all. It is really intended to dry out components. If you must use an oil, use a fine low viscosity machine oil like gun oil, or maybe 3-in-1, but if you want to lube the shaft, I would put a drop on a cloth and wipe a one molecule thick layer on it then wipe it off with a clean cloth several times. I have never lubed my shaft (ahem - helicopter shaft) and it works just fine.

And yes, you want the BLUE Loktite. At least that's what the LHS told me.

Mack

lol

wow so i'm supposed to use super glue on plastic/plastic connections?. .. that's scary ... seems to me that they would never come apart afterwards!. for example, the screws that hold the tail rotor blades to the grips...

Hey, I'm just reporting what CA means. I think it's scary too! Maybe just a little bit? A tiny bit? Maybe just touch a dot of the stuff on the screw after tightening? Sounds pretty permanent to me!

Someone please help us here!

Mack

There is no need for CA on plastic to plastic. With all the flights I have, I have never seen a metal screw back out of a plastic part. My opinion is you don't need to put CA on any metal to plastic parts. However, I have seen metal screws back out of metal parts. As long as you look at the screws as a preflight check you should be fine.

Nick

Interesting topic...I guess I'll throw my 2 cents in the bucket too...

I agree with Nick, I've never seen any metal screws driven into plastic back out...and Fadious has an excellent example...the tail blade to grip screws on a Blade 400....mine have never backed out, or even loosened for that matter...and that's with at least 150+ flights.

However, it might be a bit different on a nitro heli, where there is much more vibration, and you have the issue of the oil residue getting in the screwholes and possibly helping work the metal screws loose in the plastic...but for electrics, I see no need for CA on metal to plastic fasteners.

Just a comment on CA, if one ever does need to use it as a loctite type application, is that it will release it's bond quite nicely when heated....the melting/release temperature of cured CA is approximately 185 degrees F....so an application of heat with a heat gun, or even a lighter or match should do a nice job of releasing a CA bond...works wonders on the CPP2 tailbooms, we have many testimonials on the forum here to that!!

Glenn

Very interesting! Thanks for this. I understand that Loctite (blue?) has similar properties.

Mack

+1 on the no requirement for CA on metal to plastic. I researched this only a short while ago. None of my screws on the Blade 400 into plastic have ever come loose and interestingly I have left them loose by mistake and they don't come out the rest of the way either!!

I have used Tamiya RED on my metal to metal stuff.

Jon

+2 on Glenn's idea of dissolving the CA with heat. It works perfect ! I never have to worry anymore about "freeing up" any parts with the CA. I even have a bottle of CA remover, and it compares to nothing like the idea of heating it up.

I also have never had a screw or fastener become loose yet going into a plastic component. One one of my heli's which is the Trex 450 I still even have the stock plastic tail blade grips and those screws are still fine after almost 2 years old now. If they become a bit sloppy then the idea of CA might interest me then to maybe get it more snug, and less fear of it backing out.

Like Jon, I also even keep the fasteners a smidgen loose if anything to keep them free and loose and not binding any and they still have never backed out. And I like to fly like a madman if I can get away with it running high headspeeds. I wouldn't worry about it to much not using the CA going into the plastic, although you will see Finless in some of his videos recommend it.

For metal to metal, I've always just used the blue stuff. Just from the nearest Napa is all... I've also never had any back out, except a few times on the 450, but that's because the metal components are getting worn and tired. I just make sure I always clean the screws or fasteners really good with some acetone and a small microfiber cloth to get rid of any foreign debris or oil, old loctite etc. Then apply the fresh and its good to go !

No WD-40 on any of my heli's either... I only like to use Triflow, white lithium grease, and food grade silicone for the belt... I also have some gun oil I'll use from time to time.

I'am anal about the shafts and use Dave's (Choppersrule) idea of chucking it in the drill and buffing it out. Not much, but not to little...Boy she'll slide in those bearings and is smooth as butter then ! Every bit helps.... I do this on my MCX and all my other heli's....



Cheers,

~ Jeff

awesome stuff! thanks for all the feedback !!!!