SPAD conversion need help
#1
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From: festus, MO,
HI Guy
Just keeping you up to date
Still fighting CG problem , with the axi 2826/10 a 3 cell kokam 200mah lipo jeti 40 3p controller and the wing moved back 2.25 inches it took 6 ounzes nose weight to balance
To date have not had succesfull flight, I am fight serious left turn problem as soon as airborne, is this due to engine torque???
upon a 30 to 40 foot roll with a 10 by 7 prop pulling back on stick makes this plane jump off the ground!!!
then veers left and pitches up , trying to stalll unfortunately I am not experienced enough to handle this all at once with a altitude of 12 feet what is my problem or am I the problem I wonder if I am not trying to get off the ground to soon and wing relocation is not helping matters
Am considering building wing with dyhedral good or bad idea????
For info purposes putting wing in orig location requires adding 16 ounces weight
was thinking lead firewall (LOL)
Actually a 10 cell subc pack would be very close to correct weight and likely give me serious air time though my rtf weight would be just over 6 lbs
if anyone could help with prop explanations of pitch versus speed and such it would be awesome
EXTREMELY OPEN TO ANY IDEAS
Doug aka
Bansheeman
Just keeping you up to date
Still fighting CG problem , with the axi 2826/10 a 3 cell kokam 200mah lipo jeti 40 3p controller and the wing moved back 2.25 inches it took 6 ounzes nose weight to balance
To date have not had succesfull flight, I am fight serious left turn problem as soon as airborne, is this due to engine torque???
upon a 30 to 40 foot roll with a 10 by 7 prop pulling back on stick makes this plane jump off the ground!!!
then veers left and pitches up , trying to stalll unfortunately I am not experienced enough to handle this all at once with a altitude of 12 feet what is my problem or am I the problem I wonder if I am not trying to get off the ground to soon and wing relocation is not helping matters
Am considering building wing with dyhedral good or bad idea????
For info purposes putting wing in orig location requires adding 16 ounces weight
was thinking lead firewall (LOL)
Actually a 10 cell subc pack would be very close to correct weight and likely give me serious air time though my rtf weight would be just over 6 lbs
if anyone could help with prop explanations of pitch versus speed and such it would be awesome
EXTREMELY OPEN TO ANY IDEAS
Doug aka
Bansheeman
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From: Spencerport, NY
It's almost certainly not torque. Sounds like you could still be tail heavy, or the wing is warped, or the plane itself is twisted. Does it seem sensitive on the elevator? That would indicate the plane is still tail heavy.
You might be able to trim it out. If the elevator isn't too sensitive, punch in some down trim before takeoff, and be prepared to add in some down elevator to keep the takeoff flat and gradual.
The position of the wing is far less important than the balance point or alignment.
You might be able to trim it out. If the elevator isn't too sensitive, punch in some down trim before takeoff, and be prepared to add in some down elevator to keep the takeoff flat and gradual.
The position of the wing is far less important than the balance point or alignment.
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From: St. Charles, IL
i disagree with Matt a little bit. I'm just picking up on this thread so I don't know all the details, but have you checked the motor alignment for left/right thrust? Also for up/down thrust. It does sound like it's tailheavy as well. Don't know if you have a computer radio, but you might also try slaving the rudder to the throttle, at least for takeoff.
I'm flying a Camel (original VK kit) and I've learned that you have to stay right on it or abort the take-off. Once it gets even a little bit out of whack it's almost impossible to get it straight. Also it's very wind direction sensitive. Cross wind take offs and landing are a definite no-no.
Hope some of this helpts 'cause there's nothing like a WWI bird(-:
Walt
I'm flying a Camel (original VK kit) and I've learned that you have to stay right on it or abort the take-off. Once it gets even a little bit out of whack it's almost impossible to get it straight. Also it's very wind direction sensitive. Cross wind take offs and landing are a definite no-no.
Hope some of this helpts 'cause there's nothing like a WWI bird(-:
Walt
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From: festus, MO,
Thanks guys
plane is having issues with tail heavy , had to move wing back 2.25 inches and still 6ozs lead
takeoffs were in dead calm
does 2 degrees down and right sound good or should I go more??
am considering switching to Sub C 10 cells weight would get me nearly balanced if wing was in orig location and id rather carry batt than useless lead
Bansheeman
plane is having issues with tail heavy , had to move wing back 2.25 inches and still 6ozs lead
takeoffs were in dead calm
does 2 degrees down and right sound good or should I go more??
am considering switching to Sub C 10 cells weight would get me nearly balanced if wing was in orig location and id rather carry batt than useless lead
Bansheeman
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From: Spencerport, NY
This is a SPAD, a Simple Plastic Airplane Design, not a WWI biplane fighter, Walt. 
Folding coroplast, it's very easy to build a warped wing or fuselage, especially if you don't have much experience and are working alone. That's where I suspect the odd tendencies are coming from, not the wing location or the thrust angle. 2 degrees down and 2 degrees right should be more than adequate. I know some of my creations have had up and left in them, and they've all performed just fine.
On SPADs, the wing is designed to be slid back and forth to achieve balance. 2.5" back is hardly extreme, though I'm wondering what point of reference you're using, since most SPADs don't specify the location of the wing. It's normally "just put it wherever it balances."
One thing about SPADs is that there are no rules. You may consider choosing to lighten the tail and/or making the nose longer to achieve the proper balance point.
Frankly, I would just attempt to trim the odd tendencies out. Don't forget that the ailerons should be parallel to the fuselage.

Folding coroplast, it's very easy to build a warped wing or fuselage, especially if you don't have much experience and are working alone. That's where I suspect the odd tendencies are coming from, not the wing location or the thrust angle. 2 degrees down and 2 degrees right should be more than adequate. I know some of my creations have had up and left in them, and they've all performed just fine.
On SPADs, the wing is designed to be slid back and forth to achieve balance. 2.5" back is hardly extreme, though I'm wondering what point of reference you're using, since most SPADs don't specify the location of the wing. It's normally "just put it wherever it balances."
One thing about SPADs is that there are no rules. You may consider choosing to lighten the tail and/or making the nose longer to achieve the proper balance point.
Frankly, I would just attempt to trim the odd tendencies out. Don't forget that the ailerons should be parallel to the fuselage.
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From: festus, MO,
Thanks forall theinput guys
still leaning to the sub c pack
www.spadflyer.com is where i got it, 48 inch model , holes were predrilled for wing and wing was made already
i think its a combination of problems mainly pilot error . i think i might be rushing takeoff pulling back on stick too soon and/or too much, though i didnt have this problem on other plane A balsa trainer type from world models , but it is need of massive repair now after interference of some kind took control for me
am going to correct these other issues while deciding what to do about weight problem
already drilled alot of holes in tail end of fuse to help
Thanks All
Bansheeman aka Doug
still leaning to the sub c pack
www.spadflyer.com is where i got it, 48 inch model , holes were predrilled for wing and wing was made already
i think its a combination of problems mainly pilot error . i think i might be rushing takeoff pulling back on stick too soon and/or too much, though i didnt have this problem on other plane A balsa trainer type from world models , but it is need of massive repair now after interference of some kind took control for me
am going to correct these other issues while deciding what to do about weight problem
already drilled alot of holes in tail end of fuse to help
Thanks All
Bansheeman aka Doug
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From: puyallup,
WA
had a friend who flew spads and if ya didnt use a spar the wing did some funny things but when in air seemed to fly ok, a tail heavy situation can make a model fly very erratic not to mention squirrley and act outta control like it has too much control,ya might wanna dail in less throw. wish I was thier to help ya but keep on strokin , youll get it!!!



