Actuator setup how to
#1

I have a couple of actuators to install in a Micro Moth, these are just the coils. Can anyone point me in the direction of how to set these up? Pictures would be welcomed. I have the 2 actuator coils and 4 magents and it's unclear to me how the magnets are to be mounted/attached to provide control... feeling kinda dumb..
Thanks for any help
John Hayes
Thanks for any help
John Hayes
#2
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Hi John. I was just in your shoes a month or so ago when I set up my first RFFS 100 system. If you look around www.smallrc.com you should find a few pics of how things work or maybe even be able to download the instructions but I'm not sure about the latter. One thing that I did not find in the instructions is that you need two magnets stuck together for each actuator. I used small guage wire wrapped around the magnets and then stuck into the control surface and held with thin ca as per the instructions with great results. Another tidbit, the control surfaces need to be absolutely loose. If they bind at all you're going to have problems. I had a small amount of glue on my rubber band hinges for my elevator and until I removed it they surface would not work. Also, the better balaced the control surface the better it'll perform. If the actuator has to use a lot of energy simply holding the surface up there wont be much power left to give you up elevator. Best of luck.
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One other tidbit that just came to mind, The flat portion of the magnets needs to be facing for and aft. and they need to be centered right in the middle of the coil.
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Sorry I didn't see this post earlier. Here is a look at a surface mounted coil actuator.
The coil splits the hinge-line, the magnet is centered in the coil and the magnets point fore-and-aft. I changed from brass wire to guitar strings for holding the magnets - the guitar strings pop back into shape after you snag a piece of metal with the magnets...
The coil splits the hinge-line, the magnet is centered in the coil and the magnets point fore-and-aft. I changed from brass wire to guitar strings for holding the magnets - the guitar strings pop back into shape after you snag a piece of metal with the magnets...
#5

Thanks Roberts and Mike,
These explainations and the picture make things much clearer for me. One last question, the wire that holds the magnet, does it form a complete loop and attach to both the top and bottom surfaces?
Thanks,
John Hayes
These explainations and the picture make things much clearer for me. One last question, the wire that holds the magnet, does it form a complete loop and attach to both the top and bottom surfaces?
Thanks,
John Hayes
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The wire makes a small loop to hold the magnets, and then an arc comes off of that. I leave the tail end of the arc long, stick it through the surface, and find the right spot for a bend. I make a 90* bend and glue that to the bottom of the surface. A small dab of glue on the top surface locks it in place.
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Careful what you use to glue the coils to the surface if you want to get them out later. Acetone, CA debonder and electric motor cleaner are only three solvents that I know will remove the insulation enamel from the coil wire and ruin it. CA debonder caused a coil to delaminate and come un-wound. The winds of that coil may have been bonded with CA.
I started using only Elmers School Glue to attach coils. A little water will allow it to be removed from the airframe undamaged.
I started using only Elmers School Glue to attach coils. A little water will allow it to be removed from the airframe undamaged.
#8

Good info, I was thinking of using the Shoe Goo adhesive. It is able to be removed with dental floss pretty easily. The Elmers is a good idea as well.
I am building a MiniMoth and it is a bit of a challenge, I have alot of modeling years behind me but nothing has prepared me for the learning experience of 1/32 balsa and thin CA :-) All I can say is "keep the debonder close at hand" I'm having a blast with this small stuff!
John Hayes
I am building a MiniMoth and it is a bit of a challenge, I have alot of modeling years behind me but nothing has prepared me for the learning experience of 1/32 balsa and thin CA :-) All I can say is "keep the debonder close at hand" I'm having a blast with this small stuff!
John Hayes
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Hey mike, that is a nice picture. Do you have one of your entire plane? Id love to see it. From the pic above, it looks like it is worth seeing.
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If you meant the picture of the actuator, it is an aileron on one of my first Spicy Wings. Here are some more shots of them. There are three models (high wing, low wing, and low wing with 'V' tail). The low wingers are a lot easier to build a decent aileron system for since they lend themselves to strip ailerons...
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Doers anyone know how to get in touch with Bob Selman? seems is phone # will not work. here in Missuori. or his e-mail as WELL. (thanks Jerry)[
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Bob's phone # is (417) 358-9521, and his e-mail address is [email protected]
He has a regular job, and he may not always be available immediately, but he or his wife Jannel will get back to you...
He has a regular job, and he may not always be available immediately, but he or his wife Jannel will get back to you...
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See Dynamic Web Enterprises (http://www.smallrc.com) or Bob Selman (http://users.joplin.com/~bselman/) for your actuator needs. They have a variety of sizes (and corrosponding thrusts) for you in both surface mount and remote mounted types.
They also have the receivers, batteries, motors, gears, props and kits to get you started. DWE has combo packages that have a model, radio, optional chargers and transmitters.
They also have the receivers, batteries, motors, gears, props and kits to get you started. DWE has combo packages that have a model, radio, optional chargers and transmitters.