Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
01-12-2013, 03:55 PM
#1276
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RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
I won't modify the nose either. I bit the bullet & ordered the silver bullet from extreme flight. It also uses a 20.5 x 14 prop on 10 cells. I have the Castle HV speed ctrl. Should be a good combo. I will use the Robart type hinges and seal all hinge lines. I may sell the Hacker, we'll see how it all works out.
01-19-2013, 09:45 PM
#1277
RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
I seem to have misplaced or did not receive the set screws for horizontal stab. Can anyone tell the me the what metric size they are?
01-20-2013, 05:17 AM
#1278
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RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
Hello,
These are M4 set screws.
Good luck!
Best regards,
Nickolay
These are M4 set screws.
Good luck!
Best regards,
Nickolay
ORIGINAL: rightflyer
I seem to have misplaced or did not receive the set screws for horizontal stab. Can anyone tell the me the what metric size they are?
I seem to have misplaced or did not receive the set screws for horizontal stab. Can anyone tell the me the what metric size they are?
01-22-2013, 07:08 PM
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RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
Steve,
I have two of the Vanquish planes set up with the Hacker A60-7S. I can tell you that both planes have UNLIMITTED vertical. I fly at about half throttle or less and using Blue Lipo 4000 packs
I get 8 or so minutes (plenty of time for the Sportsman sequence) and end up with 20% left in the batteries upon landing.
On the first Vanquish I used the standard method to mount the motor. This required that I extended the cowl nose about 5/8". The way I did this was to go to IN and OUT burger and ask
for a few of their water cups. I then waxed the inside of the cup and used carbon fiber cloth and epoxy to mold a "ring" inside of the cup. If you notice, the cup has a series of rings molded in
that you can use as a reference to cut the 5/8" wide ring needed to extend the nose. I did this with a Dremal tool with a cutting disk. Next I cut out two 3/32" lite ply rings to epoxy in place inside the front
and rear of the carbon fiber extension. The rear ring provides a good gluing surface to attach the ring to the cowl.
On the second Vanquish I removed the blind mounting nuts and then glued a plywood plate with a 1/4" hole aligned with the center hole in the existing firewall. This is used as a guide for the next step.
I then used a hole saw just larger in diameter than the A60-7S to drill through the existing firewall. I then removed the triangular balsa supports behind the existing firewall.
Next I cut out two lite ply firewalls the same size as the existing firewall. One of these firewalls is 1/8" and the other is 1/4" lite ply. I then used the same hole saw to drill through the 1/8" firewall at the
motor center location. Finally I duplicated the cooling and mounting holes in the 1/4" firewall. Glue both of the firewalls together and then mount the cowl and motor up and align the spinner back plate
to match the cowl. Glue in the firewall keeping everything aligned and you are done! I use 1/2" diameter fender washers under the screws holding the motor in place. They prevent the screws from
digging into the firewall.
It took me longer to type all of this up than it took to do either setup. If you want I can send pictures.. let me know.
Oh yes, Ace hardware has the 4mm set screws for the stab.
Best regards,
Steve Hosner
01-23-2013, 12:44 PM
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RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
I am able to fit mine into a 2007 Charger with the front co pilot seat reclined.
Plenty of room for the wings behind the driver seat.
Plenty of room for the wings behind the driver seat.
01-27-2013, 03:51 PM
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RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
ORIGINAL: pvogel
So, did a couple of modifications to my plane:
I reinforced my LG plate which had the grain going the wrong way (horizontally across the fuse instead of vertically along the fuse given the shearing stresses the LG apply to the plate) with a second plate of 1/8'' lite ply with the grain going the other way epoxied to the bottom and the blind nuts moved to it's bottom instead of the bottom of the original plate, which necessitated longer LG mounting screws).
I used gator incidence adjusters in the front instead of the fiddly aluminium plates, which necessitated removing the carbon fiber tubes used as anti rotation pins on the front of the wings to be replaced by some balsa blocks drilled out to receive the gator phenolics, those balsa blocks bridge the first two ribs of the wings the same way the carbon fiber tube did, and the blocks are epoxied in.
I use secraft wing bolts with the bolt loctited into the wing and the nut spins on quickly on the interior of the plane when I mount the wings. A little heavier, but much easier to get the wings bolted on given the constrained finger space in the fuse where the wing bolts go in.
As far as equipment goes, I am running a powersafe receiver with two 450mAh 2S lipos and HV servos all around (JR 3711 for E + A, JR 8911 for R) so no reg needed. OS 1100HV ESC and Hacker Q60 motor, APC 20.5x14 prop is the heaviest prop I use and I weighed with that prop in place. Tru-turn 3'' turbo-cool spinner. I'm also using a TM1000 telemetry module just for RX and main system battery voltage. Deans connectors all around except the telemetry voltage tap which is a JST connector. I have a Sharp RC arming plug in place.
Fuse weight with RX batteries in place: 2903g
Wing weight: 401g and 420g, respectively
Wing tube: 70g
Zippy Compact 10s 5000 packs: 1116-1169g depending on the battery.
Total AUW: 4910 - 4963g
Peter+
So, did a couple of modifications to my plane:
I reinforced my LG plate which had the grain going the wrong way (horizontally across the fuse instead of vertically along the fuse given the shearing stresses the LG apply to the plate) with a second plate of 1/8'' lite ply with the grain going the other way epoxied to the bottom and the blind nuts moved to it's bottom instead of the bottom of the original plate, which necessitated longer LG mounting screws).
I used gator incidence adjusters in the front instead of the fiddly aluminium plates, which necessitated removing the carbon fiber tubes used as anti rotation pins on the front of the wings to be replaced by some balsa blocks drilled out to receive the gator phenolics, those balsa blocks bridge the first two ribs of the wings the same way the carbon fiber tube did, and the blocks are epoxied in.
I use secraft wing bolts with the bolt loctited into the wing and the nut spins on quickly on the interior of the plane when I mount the wings. A little heavier, but much easier to get the wings bolted on given the constrained finger space in the fuse where the wing bolts go in.
As far as equipment goes, I am running a powersafe receiver with two 450mAh 2S lipos and HV servos all around (JR 3711 for E + A, JR 8911 for R) so no reg needed. OS 1100HV ESC and Hacker Q60 motor, APC 20.5x14 prop is the heaviest prop I use and I weighed with that prop in place. Tru-turn 3'' turbo-cool spinner. I'm also using a TM1000 telemetry module just for RX and main system battery voltage. Deans connectors all around except the telemetry voltage tap which is a JST connector. I have a Sharp RC arming plug in place.
Fuse weight with RX batteries in place: 2903g
Wing weight: 401g and 420g, respectively
Wing tube: 70g
Zippy Compact 10s 5000 packs: 1116-1169g depending on the battery.
Total AUW: 4910 - 4963g
Peter+
Peter,
I have the Gators in hand and ready to install. Wondering if you might share a few pictures of your Gator install and any tips. Trying to decide how to go about removing the current adjusters and blind nuts without undue damage to facilitate the Gator install.
Thanks,
James
01-29-2013, 09:26 AM
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RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
Just finished up mine except for the balance point, can`t find any information as to the best location, can anyone help out. Thanks Keith.
01-31-2013, 04:08 PM
#1287
RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
ORIGINAL: fa18frog
Peter,
I have the Gators in hand and ready to install. Wondering if you might share a few pictures of your Gator install and any tips. Trying to decide how to go about removing the current adjusters and blind nuts without undue damage to facilitate the Gator install.
Thanks,
James
ORIGINAL: pvogel
So, did a couple of modifications to my plane:
I reinforced my LG plate which had the grain going the wrong way (horizontally across the fuse instead of vertically along the fuse given the shearing stresses the LG apply to the plate) with a second plate of 1/8'' lite ply with the grain going the other way epoxied to the bottom and the blind nuts moved to it's bottom instead of the bottom of the original plate, which necessitated longer LG mounting screws).
I used gator incidence adjusters in the front instead of the fiddly aluminium plates, which necessitated removing the carbon fiber tubes used as anti rotation pins on the front of the wings to be replaced by some balsa blocks drilled out to receive the gator phenolics, those balsa blocks bridge the first two ribs of the wings the same way the carbon fiber tube did, and the blocks are epoxied in.
I use secraft wing bolts with the bolt loctited into the wing and the nut spins on quickly on the interior of the plane when I mount the wings. A little heavier, but much easier to get the wings bolted on given the constrained finger space in the fuse where the wing bolts go in.
As far as equipment goes, I am running a powersafe receiver with two 450mAh 2S lipos and HV servos all around (JR 3711 for E + A, JR 8911 for R) so no reg needed. OS 1100HV ESC and Hacker Q60 motor, APC 20.5x14 prop is the heaviest prop I use and I weighed with that prop in place. Tru-turn 3'' turbo-cool spinner. I'm also using a TM1000 telemetry module just for RX and main system battery voltage. Deans connectors all around except the telemetry voltage tap which is a JST connector. I have a Sharp RC arming plug in place.
Fuse weight with RX batteries in place: 2903g
Wing weight: 401g and 420g, respectively
Wing tube: 70g
Zippy Compact 10s 5000 packs: 1116-1169g depending on the battery.
Total AUW: 4910 - 4963g
Peter+
So, did a couple of modifications to my plane:
I reinforced my LG plate which had the grain going the wrong way (horizontally across the fuse instead of vertically along the fuse given the shearing stresses the LG apply to the plate) with a second plate of 1/8'' lite ply with the grain going the other way epoxied to the bottom and the blind nuts moved to it's bottom instead of the bottom of the original plate, which necessitated longer LG mounting screws).
I used gator incidence adjusters in the front instead of the fiddly aluminium plates, which necessitated removing the carbon fiber tubes used as anti rotation pins on the front of the wings to be replaced by some balsa blocks drilled out to receive the gator phenolics, those balsa blocks bridge the first two ribs of the wings the same way the carbon fiber tube did, and the blocks are epoxied in.
I use secraft wing bolts with the bolt loctited into the wing and the nut spins on quickly on the interior of the plane when I mount the wings. A little heavier, but much easier to get the wings bolted on given the constrained finger space in the fuse where the wing bolts go in.
As far as equipment goes, I am running a powersafe receiver with two 450mAh 2S lipos and HV servos all around (JR 3711 for E + A, JR 8911 for R) so no reg needed. OS 1100HV ESC and Hacker Q60 motor, APC 20.5x14 prop is the heaviest prop I use and I weighed with that prop in place. Tru-turn 3'' turbo-cool spinner. I'm also using a TM1000 telemetry module just for RX and main system battery voltage. Deans connectors all around except the telemetry voltage tap which is a JST connector. I have a Sharp RC arming plug in place.
Fuse weight with RX batteries in place: 2903g
Wing weight: 401g and 420g, respectively
Wing tube: 70g
Zippy Compact 10s 5000 packs: 1116-1169g depending on the battery.
Total AUW: 4910 - 4963g
Peter+
Peter,
I have the Gators in hand and ready to install. Wondering if you might share a few pictures of your Gator install and any tips. Trying to decide how to go about removing the current adjusters and blind nuts without undue damage to facilitate the Gator install.
Thanks,
James
Happy to provide some pictures, I've got the Vanquish on my bench at the moment anyway (swapping out the ESC + RX for Jeti stuff) so it should be no problem. I went with using the aluminum plates on the rear of the wing and the gator adjusters on the front, to adjust, loosen the rear very slightly and turn the screw appropriately on the front adjuster.
The basic process was to use a sharpened brass tube with i.d. the size of the o.d. of the fiberglass rods acting as anti-rotation pins on the front of the wing, this leaves with an opening that will nicely fit the gator phenolic tubes. Then I took hard square balsa stock cut to fit between the root rib and the first inside rib of the wing (i.e. replacing the fiberglass rod that was there. Glued it in place, drilled it out to fit the phenolic tube for the gator adjuster and epoxied the phenolic into place.
Sounds harder than it turned out to be. Pictures tonight, I hope.
Peter+
01-31-2013, 06:13 PM
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RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
Peter,
The part I am more hesitant about is the tear out of the blind nuts and area around the blind nuts supporting the original metal plate adjusters. Don't want to cause excessive damage before installing the Gator Adjusters. Hoping the pictures will clarify the fuselage part of the adjuster installation.
My hope is that the Gators will allow fine tuning of the incidence at the field without having to go home and break out the incidence meter with every minor tweak.
I do appreciate you taking the time to help out a novice.
James
The part I am more hesitant about is the tear out of the blind nuts and area around the blind nuts supporting the original metal plate adjusters. Don't want to cause excessive damage before installing the Gator Adjusters. Hoping the pictures will clarify the fuselage part of the adjuster installation.
My hope is that the Gators will allow fine tuning of the incidence at the field without having to go home and break out the incidence meter with every minor tweak.
I do appreciate you taking the time to help out a novice.
James
02-01-2013, 12:54 PM
#1289
RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
ORIGINAL: fa18frog
Peter,
The part I am more hesitant about is the tear out of the blind nuts and area around the blind nuts supporting the original metal plate adjusters. Don't want to cause excessive damage before installing the Gator Adjusters. Hoping the pictures will clarify the fuselage part of the adjuster installation.
My hope is that the Gators will allow fine tuning of the incidence at the field without having to go home and break out the incidence meter with every minor tweak.
I do appreciate you taking the time to help out a novice.
James
Peter,
The part I am more hesitant about is the tear out of the blind nuts and area around the blind nuts supporting the original metal plate adjusters. Don't want to cause excessive damage before installing the Gator Adjusters. Hoping the pictures will clarify the fuselage part of the adjuster installation.
My hope is that the Gators will allow fine tuning of the incidence at the field without having to go home and break out the incidence meter with every minor tweak.
I do appreciate you taking the time to help out a novice.
James
Peter+
02-01-2013, 06:38 PM
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RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
Peter
Thanks; that was very timely for me also.
I just came in from the shop to grab a bite to eat. Was going to use the stock plates but after messing with them a little decided that was not for me. Have several sets of gators on hand and thought it looked like the holes could be made to fit the existing ones. The idea of tubing also sounds easier to remove the rods rather than trying to drill them out progresively.
On another subject, believe someone mentioned an easy way to mount the cowling?? Was just trying the fit and it seems it might need a little extra attention to get on anf off?
Mel
Thanks; that was very timely for me also.
I just came in from the shop to grab a bite to eat. Was going to use the stock plates but after messing with them a little decided that was not for me. Have several sets of gators on hand and thought it looked like the holes could be made to fit the existing ones. The idea of tubing also sounds easier to remove the rods rather than trying to drill them out progresively.
On another subject, believe someone mentioned an easy way to mount the cowling?? Was just trying the fit and it seems it might need a little extra attention to get on anf off?
Mel
02-02-2013, 08:06 AM
#1291
RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
Is there a preferred routing method for t he elevator servo extension wires? My goal is to avoid the rudder pull pull cables.
02-02-2013, 10:05 AM
#1293
RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
Yes, tired runnigg the RED extension using those slots in the lower corner, but was concerned the wire could interfere with the pull pull where it exits
02-15-2013, 04:42 PM
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RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
Steve,
Sorry it has taken so long for me to get these to you.
Here are a couple of shots of the mods that I did to the Vanquish firewall to allow the Hacker A60-7S to fit.
Hopefully I will be able to get a maiden flight on this one Sunday or Monday.
Hope these help.
Steve Hosner
Sorry it has taken so long for me to get these to you.
Here are a couple of shots of the mods that I did to the Vanquish firewall to allow the Hacker A60-7S to fit.
Hopefully I will be able to get a maiden flight on this one Sunday or Monday.
Hope these help.
Steve Hosner
02-22-2013, 11:27 AM
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RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
Thought I would chime in here. I have recently started flying a Vanquish and getting into the F3A Pattern side of competition and am really enjoying it. I replaced the magenta with Cub Yellow and with 5000mah packs it weighs 4930g. I also added an 11" span T-Cantalizer which has been working very well and really makes the airplane lock in and roll better.
Chris M.
Chris M.
02-23-2013, 08:13 AM
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RE: Extreme Flight Vanquish 2m Build Thread
Steve,
Thanks, I am using the Himax F3A 210.
The cantalizer is built out of a 1/4" thick piece of honeycomb capped with balsa strips with the LE rounded down. I cut a balsa block to size for the mounting block and glued it to the tdeck. The wing it self is bolted to the top with 4-40 pan heads and has blind nuts in the mounting block. The whole thing weighs 40grams. To provide additional strength to the tdeck as it will flex under load from the cantalizer, I made a honeycomb former that goes in the top half of the tdeck (touching the top and sides) and glued it in. So far so good!
Chris
Thanks, I am using the Himax F3A 210.
The cantalizer is built out of a 1/4" thick piece of honeycomb capped with balsa strips with the LE rounded down. I cut a balsa block to size for the mounting block and glued it to the tdeck. The wing it self is bolted to the top with 4-40 pan heads and has blind nuts in the mounting block. The whole thing weighs 40grams. To provide additional strength to the tdeck as it will flex under load from the cantalizer, I made a honeycomb former that goes in the top half of the tdeck (touching the top and sides) and glued it in. So far so good!
Chris