OK... I have an Eclipse that I installed a Hacker C50 in.
I did what I think is better ducting than I have seen others do...
All the ingoing air is driven over the motor and then thru the region the ESC is located. (Acro 90 ESC)

I am running an APC 20 x 13 and peaking at about 69 or 70 amps statically..
The plane weighs about 11.25 pounds and will do indefinite upline snaps...

But in a 4 minute flight, the ESC is warm and the motor is so hot I can't leave my finger on it....

anyone have a similar setup that is working??? With some pictures??

any ideas??

thanks!

mds

Do you have actual temp readings? I would suggest getting a temp gun if you don't have one as what may seem hot to the touch, may not be too bad if you actually put a temp gun on it.

Arch

Just to eliminate the obvious...do you have plenty of outlet area?

I have one of the $25.00 Hobbico IR Thumb sized temp sensor... it reads 125 degrees... but I don't believe it.... I think I can put my fingers on 150 degrees with minimum discomfort... it is hotter than that!

I have adequate exhaust area and I have added exit baffles to inspire the flow out... actually seemed to make no difference...
the batts get just a little warmer than ambient...

4 minutes draws about 1.8 to 2.0 AH of capacity (Based on 3 flights so far)

I don't have any images of the exit.. I try to get those later tonight....

I have a baffle in the Chin Piece that aligns with the aft wall of the baffle around the motor....
the air passes over the motor into the fuse... exits the motor region near the fuse top....
I may add another internal baffle that tkaes that air over the ESC mounted on top just fwd of the Canopy/Hatch

Really looks to me like that baffling is restricting the airflow too much. Instead of using baffles to cool the motor, have you considered adding more airflow by opening a couple small cheek holes if there is strength enough in the nose. From the picture it almost looks like there are marks for a cutout just along side the front of the motor already. And, of course, I hope you'll let us all know how you work it out either way.


Joe

You ask the questions I asked myself! lol

the motor mount uses those side areas (next to the spinner where the scribe lines are) for structure...
If I cut those out, I would be forced to use a more traditional Firewall based mount (Like the slimers use)

I have also considered enlarging the gaps between the motor and the angled baffles... that could be restrictive...

Have you run it with the spinner off or on? Wondering if you are using a spinner that doesn't have an opening for air to flow through- doing so may provide more cooling.

take a look at the 3rd image above... the mount closes off the front irregardless of a spinner....

I had the motor in a 11.7 pound 2 meter Funtana 140S and it was a benign setup....

Better opportunities for ducting though....

Hi,Just my 2c, the C50 you are using does not have built in fan.The C50 comp. does have a fan.Given this you need more flow than the Comp motor requires.Also the foam piece you have across the motor will stop airflow not encourage it,the baffles must have some angle to direct air over the motor and out,not stop airflow at the motor.The recommended max temp of the motor is 60c,the magnets should withstand 160c !!! but there are other considerations,not just the magnets.
How do I know this........................just look at my address,it gets VERY hot here and we have to deal with it!!
So in short:- large air inlets,good baffles and LARGE outlets i.e.3x the inlet area.
Hope this helps.
Dambuster.

Remember that air is going to also take the path of least resistance.  From the pictures, it would seem that you have more inlet than ways for the air to move past (aka the baffles).  You must always have more exhaust than intake to achieve proper airflow.  I'm simply suggesting that it looks like you have a wall around the motor.  When you try to force more air in than the baffles can move, the air will go around the inlets and the airplane instead of through.  I'm concerned that your baffling system is creating some headaches for you more than ducting air especially if it is true that the motor you are using does not have a built-in fan.

I increased the gap between the motor and the baffles as well as added carbon tubes to the side holes on the chin cowl...

Pictures to follow if it seems to help....

I did measure 69 amps with the 20 x 13 prop.... this seems to be a load that is within the capability of the Hacker C50-14Xl no???

I agree with the others - I would perforate you baffles, they look more like dams than ducts. I had (motor) overheating issues with my plane, and a small increase in outlet (less restriction) made a huge difference in operating temps. Everything was previously ducted with baffles from the manufacturer, but for my setup I needed more cooling flow.

I would start perforating the dam to let flow over the ESC. Will cool the ESC more and let more air flow through the plane, cooling motor as well.