OXAI no more ??
#26
Senior Member
Bo, chances are great that Oxai finishes their wood parts in Esaki tissue. It a great bedding medium but is very thin, about 1/3 the thickness of glass. It hides the grain just as well and it will not telegraph the weave since the paper has no weave. But is very prone to hanger rash because it's so thin.
I use either Esaki tissue or silkspan for covering all wood surfaces on my models. I haven't used glass to cover my stuff since the 80's.
I use either Esaki tissue or silkspan for covering all wood surfaces on my models. I haven't used glass to cover my stuff since the 80's.
#30
Here is an overview of how it's done. I will start updating this thread soon with a new build.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-p...-graphics.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-p...-graphics.html
#31
Same EXACT combo...was my second r/c plane, back in '76. Goldberg Ranger 42 was my first.
#32
Senior Member
True, Brodak carries silkspan as do some of the websites catering to free flight.
Sig carries Jap tissue in 3 weights. It's the least expensive source I found, on par with silkspan. It's applied very similarly to silkspan. But it has really high wet strength making it easier to handle. It is also stronger than silkspan. For a fully sheeted surface, either or is fine.
#33
My Feedback: (1)
Hi,
It is probably still some "silk and dope" people that read this thread and I'm wondering about this problem:
On my Galactika I have some dents in the wings (that has been created during assembly and during transportation).
For example I have one deep dent in left aileron I would very much try to get rid of. The dent is about 10 x 5 mm and maybe 1,5 mm deep, see photo below. The skin/paint is still OK on the dent (no crack in paint surface).
I expect more dents in future because the wing/stab/rudder surfaces are rather fragile with the tissue covered balsa under the paint and clear coats.
Is there any "trick" to reverse the dent to get the surface at dent flat again?
I have heard that wet cloth and an iron may work to get the balsa under the dent skin to "swell" up agian.
Can this problem be solved?
thanks,
/Bo
It is probably still some "silk and dope" people that read this thread and I'm wondering about this problem:
On my Galactika I have some dents in the wings (that has been created during assembly and during transportation).
For example I have one deep dent in left aileron I would very much try to get rid of. The dent is about 10 x 5 mm and maybe 1,5 mm deep, see photo below. The skin/paint is still OK on the dent (no crack in paint surface).
I expect more dents in future because the wing/stab/rudder surfaces are rather fragile with the tissue covered balsa under the paint and clear coats.
Is there any "trick" to reverse the dent to get the surface at dent flat again?
I have heard that wet cloth and an iron may work to get the balsa under the dent skin to "swell" up agian.
Can this problem be solved?
thanks,
/Bo
Last edited by bem; 05-03-2016 at 01:47 AM.
#34
My Feedback: (4)
Hi,
It is probably still some "silk and dope" people that read this thread and I'm wondering about this problem:
On my Galactika I have some dents in the wings (that has been created during assembly and during transportation).
For example I have one deep dent in left aileron I would very much try to get rid of. The dent is about 10 x 5 mm and maybe 1,5 mm Deep, see photo below. The skin/paint is still OK on the dent (no crack in paint surface).
I expect more dents in future because the wings/stab/rudder surface are rather fragile with the tissue covered balsa under the paint and clear coats.
Is there any "trick" to reverse the dent to get the surface at dent flat again?
I have heard that wet cloth and an iron may work to get the balsa under the dent skin to "swell" up agian.
Can this problem be solved?
thanks,
/Bo
It is probably still some "silk and dope" people that read this thread and I'm wondering about this problem:
On my Galactika I have some dents in the wings (that has been created during assembly and during transportation).
For example I have one deep dent in left aileron I would very much try to get rid of. The dent is about 10 x 5 mm and maybe 1,5 mm Deep, see photo below. The skin/paint is still OK on the dent (no crack in paint surface).
I expect more dents in future because the wings/stab/rudder surface are rather fragile with the tissue covered balsa under the paint and clear coats.
Is there any "trick" to reverse the dent to get the surface at dent flat again?
I have heard that wet cloth and an iron may work to get the balsa under the dent skin to "swell" up agian.
Can this problem be solved?
thanks,
/Bo
#35
My Feedback: (1)
Hi,
So the question is then how to get moisture/water to penetrate through the skin on the wing?
Place a small wet piece of cloth over the dent and then tape over so no evaporation, and let it be so overnight and hope the moisture will travel trough the skin? The wing has no epoxy on it so it is probably not tight.
Or maybe puncture the skin gently with a thin needle so moisture can penetrate easier down to the balsa (and then wet piece of cloth over night as previously described)?
/Bo
So the question is then how to get moisture/water to penetrate through the skin on the wing?
Place a small wet piece of cloth over the dent and then tape over so no evaporation, and let it be so overnight and hope the moisture will travel trough the skin? The wing has no epoxy on it so it is probably not tight.
Or maybe puncture the skin gently with a thin needle so moisture can penetrate easier down to the balsa (and then wet piece of cloth over night as previously described)?
/Bo
Last edited by bem; 05-03-2016 at 12:52 AM.
#36
My Feedback: (4)
Hi,
So the question is then how to get moisture/water to penetrate through the skin on the wing?
Place a small wet piece of cloth over the dent and then tape over so no evaporation, and let it be so overnight and hope the moisture will travel trough the skin? The wing has no epoxy on it so it is probably not tight.
Or maybe puncture the skin gently with a thin needle so moisture can penetrate easier down to the balsa (and then wet piece of cloth over night as previously described)?
/Bo
So the question is then how to get moisture/water to penetrate through the skin on the wing?
Place a small wet piece of cloth over the dent and then tape over so no evaporation, and let it be so overnight and hope the moisture will travel trough the skin? The wing has no epoxy on it so it is probably not tight.
Or maybe puncture the skin gently with a thin needle so moisture can penetrate easier down to the balsa (and then wet piece of cloth over night as previously described)?
/Bo
#39
My Feedback: (1)
With that particular dent I posted a photo on in post #34 above It happened when I put the ThunderPower sticker on there.
There was an airbubble and I was trying to press that out gently at the edge with a soft Topz cutton swab.
The Surface on Galactika wings and stabs are rather soft, it is very easy to get dents.
And I was thinking for future also as I get more dents - I do not want to have a more and more decal covered plane as times goes
I can not remember I have had any plane before that has such fragile surface as my Galactika wing, stab, rudder.
I have build planes before (free flight, control-line and RC) that was covered with Japaneese tissue (probably Galacticka is also covered with similar material under the paint) and it has not been as fragile as my Galactika (what I can remember).
Of course I will be very careful when I handle my Galactika to try to avoid dents but there will always be "hangar rash" and on this plane easier then I'm used to. Oracover/Ultracote plastic film covered wings etc is more durable and smaller dents is usually just to take the iron and tighten the film over the dent and it is in most cases then invisible.
/Bo
There was an airbubble and I was trying to press that out gently at the edge with a soft Topz cutton swab.
The Surface on Galactika wings and stabs are rather soft, it is very easy to get dents.
And I was thinking for future also as I get more dents - I do not want to have a more and more decal covered plane as times goes
I can not remember I have had any plane before that has such fragile surface as my Galactika wing, stab, rudder.
I have build planes before (free flight, control-line and RC) that was covered with Japaneese tissue (probably Galacticka is also covered with similar material under the paint) and it has not been as fragile as my Galactika (what I can remember).
Of course I will be very careful when I handle my Galactika to try to avoid dents but there will always be "hangar rash" and on this plane easier then I'm used to. Oracover/Ultracote plastic film covered wings etc is more durable and smaller dents is usually just to take the iron and tighten the film over the dent and it is in most cases then invisible.
/Bo
Last edited by bem; 05-04-2016 at 01:30 AM.
#40
Drop filling is the best method to repair them. As mentioned, you can use clear coat to fill in the dent and then level and buff it back. The big thing in instrument repair is to use CA that is formulated for this purpose that stays clear even with kicker. Here is a link to an excellent product and videos showing how it's done.
http://gearupproducts.com/fillnfinish.html
http://gearupproducts.com/fillnfinish.html
#41
Senior Member
Pat,
I just finished shooting HOK base coat on my Delta's wing panels. First 3 very thin coats of white, then 3 thin coats of yellow. The yellow in not 100% opaque but it's very close. Total gain was 20 grams per panel. Yellow is just hard. I miss the DuPont yellow lacquer days when 1 coat covered.
Neon orange was sprayed as trim on the stab. It's quite the color, bright and reflecting. I'm curious how it will appear at the distance of interest. Neon green was rather drab. No clear yet so things will probably change
I just finished shooting HOK base coat on my Delta's wing panels. First 3 very thin coats of white, then 3 thin coats of yellow. The yellow in not 100% opaque but it's very close. Total gain was 20 grams per panel. Yellow is just hard. I miss the DuPont yellow lacquer days when 1 coat covered.
Neon orange was sprayed as trim on the stab. It's quite the color, bright and reflecting. I'm curious how it will appear at the distance of interest. Neon green was rather drab. No clear yet so things will probably change
#42
Pat,
I just finished shooting HOK base coat on my Delta's wing panels. First 3 very thin coats of white, then 3 thin coats of yellow. The yellow in not 100% opaque but it's very close. Total gain was 20 grams per panel. Yellow is just hard. I miss the DuPont yellow lacquer days when 1 coat covered.
Neon orange was sprayed as trim on the stab. It's quite the color, bright and reflecting. I'm curious how it will appear at the distance of interest. Neon green was rather drab. No clear yet so things will probably change
I just finished shooting HOK base coat on my Delta's wing panels. First 3 very thin coats of white, then 3 thin coats of yellow. The yellow in not 100% opaque but it's very close. Total gain was 20 grams per panel. Yellow is just hard. I miss the DuPont yellow lacquer days when 1 coat covered.
Neon orange was sprayed as trim on the stab. It's quite the color, bright and reflecting. I'm curious how it will appear at the distance of interest. Neon green was rather drab. No clear yet so things will probably change
Sounds like you are on your way with the HOK. Yellow is hard for sure. I just shot HOK white and yellow just last week. I'm getting some pictures together for my current build. I'll post it on my painting thread.
#46
My Feedback: (1)
Hi,
Great news. It is on F3A Unlimited facebook site:
News flash!!!!!!
We just received word that Oxai will continue producing F3A/Pattern planes. It was with careful consideration that Oxai Professional has reconsidered their decision to leave F3A and concentrate on other opportunities outside of RC.. Yang has informed us of this decision today. They are moving into a new facility first and then we can resume taking orders. We expect the Nauke Designed Ascent Monoplane to be available in the near future.
We had pulled the listing but soon will be bringing them back to our site. Thank you Mr Yang for your cooperation.
https://www.facebook.com/f3aunlimited
That is nice - I have an Oxai Galactika flying.
/Bo
Great news. It is on F3A Unlimited facebook site:
News flash!!!!!!
We just received word that Oxai will continue producing F3A/Pattern planes. It was with careful consideration that Oxai Professional has reconsidered their decision to leave F3A and concentrate on other opportunities outside of RC.. Yang has informed us of this decision today. They are moving into a new facility first and then we can resume taking orders. We expect the Nauke Designed Ascent Monoplane to be available in the near future.
We had pulled the listing but soon will be bringing them back to our site. Thank you Mr Yang for your cooperation.
https://www.facebook.com/f3aunlimited
That is nice - I have an Oxai Galactika flying.
/Bo