3 or 4 blade Prop for Plettenberg?
#1
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3 or 4 blade Prop for Plettenberg?
I had to change the gear on my Impact due to impending failure that I discovered after a flight today, nope no crashes or hard landings... Anyway, I went to a Bolly Electric gear and now I have a clearance problem. Plane was singing along with a 22 in prop, now I"m restricted to about 20. Anybody know where I can get a 3 or 4 blade prop that will work with a Plettenberg prop adapter?
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RE: 3 or 4 blade Prop for Plettenberg?
Ex, how are you mounting your prop? Chad and I are using the mounting kit that APC has designed for the Plettenberg Xtra motors. It allows us to use a conventional prop nut and is very simple. If you want more information on it I'll take a picture or two.
#3
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RE: 3 or 4 blade Prop for Plettenberg?
I am using the stock set up that comes with the motor... A threaded shaft that's about 3mm that goes into the motor, and a tru-turn adapter that screws onto the other end. If you have something different, a picture or two would be great.
#4
RE: 3 or 4 blade Prop for Plettenberg?
HI All,
I began mounting my Plett 30/10 tonight and have a question. Does the prop mount against the supplied black washer, and the washer against the stubby shaft? If not , who is stocking the Tru Turn adapter? Would have been nice to know about this earlier. Also, there are no english instructions with the motor.
Thanks,
Jim W.
I began mounting my Plett 30/10 tonight and have a question. Does the prop mount against the supplied black washer, and the washer against the stubby shaft? If not , who is stocking the Tru Turn adapter? Would have been nice to know about this earlier. Also, there are no english instructions with the motor.
Thanks,
Jim W.
#6
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RE: 3 or 4 blade Prop for Plettenberg?
As for mounting the prop... Thread the threaded rod into the motor, place the backplate (washer looking thing with small hole) over the rod until it butts up against the motor bell. Then place prop, with supplied APC plastic adapter to accept the rod, then use the washer and nut to tighten. I don't know who, if anybody, that stocks the Tru Turn adapter. I called True Turn and asked for a Plettenberg adapter and had it in a week.
Be sure to check over your 30-10 for defects before you apply any power to the motor. Make sure the can will spin freely, and that it spins true. Both of mine had to get sent back because of manufacturer defects. I'm still trying to get the second one resolved right now. First one runs great.
Be sure to check over your 30-10 for defects before you apply any power to the motor. Make sure the can will spin freely, and that it spins true. Both of mine had to get sent back because of manufacturer defects. I'm still trying to get the second one resolved right now. First one runs great.
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RE: 3 or 4 blade Prop for Plettenberg?
Thanks Adam for the pics. I ordered the adapter kit. I think I'll be first flying the system this weekend without spinner. One question on tightening the prop. While tightening the prop last night with the stock kit supplied with the motor, it seemed difficult to hold the motor can and tighten at the same time. Have other people noticed this? While holding the prop and spinning the wrench, the motor-can will rotate and not allow too much tightening to take place.
Thanks,
Jim W.
Thanks,
Jim W.
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RE: 3 or 4 blade Prop for Plettenberg?
I've flown about 10 flights with the spinner cone off and didn't notice a difference in the air. Big difference in motor temperature, though (thus Chad's modified spinner cone).
I've never used the stock prop mounting system. With the Truturn adapter the prop is locked to the motor can, so I keep the shaft from turning by holding the prop in one hand and wrench in the other.
I've never used the stock prop mounting system. With the Truturn adapter the prop is locked to the motor can, so I keep the shaft from turning by holding the prop in one hand and wrench in the other.
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RE: 3 or 4 blade Prop for Plettenberg?
Hi All,
This weekend I flew my Plett 30/10 with 21x12WE prop and Tanic 5S2P 4960 packs and C.C. 110 controller. I flew this on my originally glow powered Aggressor. In making the conversion, I preserved my option to return to glow (I did not rip-out the pipe tunnel or anything drastic). So, the weight of the plane ready to fly electric was 11 lb 15 oz. Very heavy - again, I did not want to drastically alter this airframe to reduce weight. That said, the Plett 30/10 with 21x12WE turning 5800-5900 rpms on the ground, performed VERY well. Even with the near 12 lb airframe, the combination produced power just less than the OS 140 with 2 blade (18x10 prop). For the forth flight, I flew just one sequence then landed, intentionally using full power most of the flight. Upon recharge I had used 3900 mah. Pack temperatures were 116 F, controller 105 F, and motor (pointed at the Plett sticker), was 155-160 F.
If I were to continue flying this specific airframe E, I would institute more cooling features for the motor and completely remove the glow features to reduce weight. This was a GREAT experiment and FUN to see. The peformance on this worse-case setup proved to me that it should be GREAT on a lighter airframe and potentially with a differnet prop. My next plane is in the works for this motor!!!!!!!!!!! As for this particular airframe, I will compete the final contest with the OS140 setup. As for a comparison between this as the Hacker setup I've flown on my Impact, the Hacker seemed to have better downline breaking - however - the impact was 18 oz lighter (maybe gravity was just lovin the heavy plane . The Hacker did have more power, but again, 1 lb lighter airframe. After the upline snap, the Aggressor still had great upline speed and motored over the top nicely with the Plett - very similar both the Hacker, and OS 140. Should be great at a much reduced weight.
Thanks for all the posts.
Jim W.
This weekend I flew my Plett 30/10 with 21x12WE prop and Tanic 5S2P 4960 packs and C.C. 110 controller. I flew this on my originally glow powered Aggressor. In making the conversion, I preserved my option to return to glow (I did not rip-out the pipe tunnel or anything drastic). So, the weight of the plane ready to fly electric was 11 lb 15 oz. Very heavy - again, I did not want to drastically alter this airframe to reduce weight. That said, the Plett 30/10 with 21x12WE turning 5800-5900 rpms on the ground, performed VERY well. Even with the near 12 lb airframe, the combination produced power just less than the OS 140 with 2 blade (18x10 prop). For the forth flight, I flew just one sequence then landed, intentionally using full power most of the flight. Upon recharge I had used 3900 mah. Pack temperatures were 116 F, controller 105 F, and motor (pointed at the Plett sticker), was 155-160 F.
If I were to continue flying this specific airframe E, I would institute more cooling features for the motor and completely remove the glow features to reduce weight. This was a GREAT experiment and FUN to see. The peformance on this worse-case setup proved to me that it should be GREAT on a lighter airframe and potentially with a differnet prop. My next plane is in the works for this motor!!!!!!!!!!! As for this particular airframe, I will compete the final contest with the OS140 setup. As for a comparison between this as the Hacker setup I've flown on my Impact, the Hacker seemed to have better downline breaking - however - the impact was 18 oz lighter (maybe gravity was just lovin the heavy plane . The Hacker did have more power, but again, 1 lb lighter airframe. After the upline snap, the Aggressor still had great upline speed and motored over the top nicely with the Plett - very similar both the Hacker, and OS 140. Should be great at a much reduced weight.
Thanks for all the posts.
Jim W.
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RE: 3 or 4 blade Prop for Plettenberg?
Jim, any issues with how the motor started or throttle response with the CC HV controller? Do you know what your static amp draw was at full throttle? What programable settings did you use on the controller?
Thanks, Norm
Thanks, Norm
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RE: 3 or 4 blade Prop for Plettenberg?
Hi Norm,
I did not notice any problem at all with the controller. I actually borrowed this controller from a friend - until mine arrives. He set it up and I believe must have done it correctly because the performance was good. Prior to plugging in the pack, I set my transmitter throttle-cut switch on (this is the lowest channel 3 setting). Plug in the pack and hear a series of beeps. Turn off the throttle-cut switch wich yields a low idle. Then raise to full throttle and back to idle. Then take off. This was the recommended procedure and it worked just fine for me. No problems.
Jim W.
I did not notice any problem at all with the controller. I actually borrowed this controller from a friend - until mine arrives. He set it up and I believe must have done it correctly because the performance was good. Prior to plugging in the pack, I set my transmitter throttle-cut switch on (this is the lowest channel 3 setting). Plug in the pack and hear a series of beeps. Turn off the throttle-cut switch wich yields a low idle. Then raise to full throttle and back to idle. Then take off. This was the recommended procedure and it worked just fine for me. No problems.
Jim W.