Hi,
I'm thinking about using one of these in an 2M F3A model.
I will reduce the wires to 12AWG.
Will this work.
Is it a good or bad idea. What do you think ??

Brian

Well, it depends on the weight you end up with.

How programmable is the brake on that ESC? If it's not, or with 4 default settings (like 'soft', 'hard', etc) then I wouldn't go there.

The break is adjustable (with the programmer or USB connector) in increments 1% from 0-100%.

Seems like many of us have got the 80A ESC.

Simple questions, simple answers Yes it will work; NO it is a terrible idea, and I think you should use an ICE 80 HV. The 160 is enormous overkill unless you plan on using it somewhere else when your 2M playing is done.



Joe

Hi,
Rec'd this on Monday.
I promised Chris M that I'd report on weight.
With the wires reduced to suit 80A and at the same length as my Shulze ( which is 120g / no connectors) I now have an 82g 160A ESC [sm=biggrin.gif].
This should be super efficient with very little loss to heat.
Will try at the weekend.

Brian

Hello serious power.

Castle creations said 25 volts max voltaje.

Regards.

Andres.

Andres,
This is the 'HV' unit .
The usual 50V / 12S Lipo spec.

Brian

The 160HV comes with heavy 8ga wires to carry the 160amp continuous load and if you change them to something more compatible with an 80 amp F3A setup you can save a lot of weight and have a controller that is running mostly at 30%-50% of rated capacity. You certainly would not ever have to worry about over temping or over amping the controller. Would be an interesting experiment to see if a 160 amp running at 50% load would be more efficient that an 80 amp running at 100% load. Certainly would run cooler all else being equal.

12 AWG wires probably are small. I use 10 AWG and 4mm bullet connectors for my f3a setup.