nirvana0001

Hi! I am a newbie to r/c helicopter. I got my walkera #35 zoom-400 yesterday. But i don't know how to lift-off. U had pushed the left stick and elevator trim to mixium. But the main blades just keep spinning pretty fast. can somebody help me? And also i saw some switch behind the control. like as ELEY, AILE, THRO, etc. What are they?? Do i have to swtich all they on? This is that original control.
And where can i get the replacement part? because the tail gear was crashed (very easily). Is there any metal gear?
lastly what is "Fixed picth" and "3D"?

giles25

Ok due you know what mode the controller is setup for ( mode 1 or mode2) probably mode 2 which means the elevator and aileron is on the right stick and throttle and rudder on left. The eley, aile, thro switches behind the controller are the reverse switches. you probably dont need to switch them unless the helicopter moves in the oposite direction you telll it to.

basically you might want to find someone who has some experience to help you with the basics then the rest is easy.

goodluck

oops

Hi nirvana0001,

Whatever you do, don't set it to 3D - Ever... Until you know what you are doing.

If you set it to 3D mode, it will suddenly spin the main rotor up to full flying speed, and you will have an accident.

3D means the motor speed is fixed (flat out) while you control only the surfaces. It also means that you can get negative pitch on the collective and fly the Heli upside down. You need to learn to set the pitch trim before you use 3D. You basically throttle up to 50% then switch it, at which point your blades should have 0 degrees pitch.

Fixed Pitch (or Normal Flight Mode) means that the stick on the LEFT under mode 2 (The throttle is the only control that isn't spring loaded to self center) controls the rotor speed and the pitch a little, while the stick on the right controls the Cyclic. Get used to using this and shutting down the throttle when you are about to crash... That will save a LOT of damage. Most damage is minimal, but if you go in under power, it gets bad.

Just to warn you, you have picked a bad model to start. I started on the Walkera 22a, and couldn't get the simulator running. As a result, I did a lot of damage to my Heli, which was time consuming to fix. I see from your comments about the tail gear, you are starting to discover this.

That said, you probably want to spend a LOT of time on a simulator before you even spin up the rotor on your 35, and I would recommend getting a Walkera 4 to learn to fly on. The 35 flies a lot better than a Walkera 4, but a Walkera 4 is a lot more forgiving.

I bought a Walkera 4 and could fly it quite well by the time I got my 22A flying.

Regards
David.

Norrmannen

Naah, nothings easy with heli's when your new to them. Think you should read up some and make sure you know all functions before liftoff...

nirvana0001

But the problem is i even can't life-off the helicopter. Is anybody using the same control? And how to do?

cptsnoopy

you may not know this yet but it is good that you cannot lift off your helicopter. at your level of knowledge and skill that would be dangerous to you and anyone around you, not to mention a destroyed helicopter. i am not trying to be mean about this it is the truth. with some simulator practice and hands on help from someone who has gone through this learning experience you will save lots of time, money and grief. (ok, just my opinion, others may vary )

ok that said there are several reasons why your heli might not be able to fly right now. as your starting to find out there is a lot involved in setting up your heli for its first flight. too much to try and explain in one post on the forum. in summary: you need to verify that all of the parts of the heli are put together correctly and that the screws and bolts are tight. then you need to check for the proper spacing of the main and driven gears. then you need to make sure that the servos, links, flybar, main rotor blades, and tail rotor are all setup correctly. if i knew of a link to good instructions for your heli i would happily post them for you, but i don't.

my guess is that your probably using the Nimh battery which is pretty weak to begin with. also your pitch settings may be too low and that will make it not want to lift off. these are guesses only, they may not be the problem. please if at all possible, try to find someone in your town that can show you the basics so you can setup your heli correctly and make it fly.

nirvana0001

Anybody can tell me step by step for how to use the original control?

giles25

anyone who's flown rc aircraft could probably tell you how to use the control.

Tomi

My Feedback: (4)

Uhhhh,,,,, read the manual. That's why they put it in the box for you.


Personally, I don't think you should fly this until you read and learn how it works. It's obvious that you didn't read the manual.

-Tomi

shadow10g

To all you guys saying read the manuel, That is all well and good and anybody with any smarts at all should do so till they understand it
BUT! if he has the same one that came with mine the best thing that can be said about it is that its softer than a corn cob and cheaper than charmin. it is good for a few laughs but not much else. It refers to things like the new horse switch and making sure the flylock switch is in the up position. If someone out there has mastered the 22a why not write a clear easy to understand manuel on it. you might make a few bucks and do all of us a service that are trying to learn to fly this little beast. I would be the first in line with $$ in hand

bladebreaker

I bought the Walkera 35 as my first Helicopter and the manual is a total piece of crap! You could read it over 10 times and not get anything out of it. I am still learning too....learning that I want to learn on a different helicopter!!

scottyfusion

My Feedback: (1)

good luck ther guy!!! u need to do some basic research on hellis it sounds like!! you chose a heck of a hobby to jump into! if that helli comes off the ground.........under YOUR control..........with the knoledge that u (dont) have now............god help anyone neer buy! not to mention you Will be buying..........well probably a new helli! baby steps my freind!

GET A SIMULATOR!!!!! or u WILL regret it!! trust these people in the forms they all have been there, done that, got the shirt!!! my opinnion, put the helli on a shlf and start talkin to people who know!!! if you dont understand the bassics you WILL fail over and over!

good luck. take your time and u will be rewarded

Scotty

hueyman

My Feedback: (2)

nirvana0001, i cut and pasted this info from a few different threads and forums. read through it and it should answer all your questions about setting up the #35. if you still have unanswered questions about mechanical setup of the heli, you will find the answers in the forums if you search for them. i agree the manual is lacking and confusing.

For a start they come with Non standard power connectors - ok if you use the nimh shipped with the charger - watch the charger - they say 15V 0.4a - We have measured voltages between 16v and 22v on the standard chargers - that's why some of the shipped nimh COOK in 30 mins and others are warm at full charge after an hour or so - Its pure pot luck - IF YOU USE THE ORIGINAL CHARGER AND BATTERIES - NEVER CHARGE THEM UNATTENDED - Better still - you got the heli cheap - spend some of the saved money on a decent charger, change the power connectors and your safe!

If you got a BRUSHLESS model or got the 1500 mAh LI-Poly - ****DO NOT CHARGE YOUR LI-POLY with the charger from WALKERA under any circumstances - You will need to get a dedicated LI-POLY charger and change the power connectors again. I repeat - DO NOT CHARGE YOUR LI_POLY with the CHARGER SHIPPED WITH YOUR HELI - Walkera are now aware of the problem and are addressing it. THEY DO NOT DO THIS ON PURPOSE - Its a misunderstanding they had.

The Batteries unusually have 3 leads coming from them - 1 Red - 1 White - 1 - black.
Red and black supply power out while running the Heli - HOWEVER ON CHARGING the BLACK wire IS - NEGATIVE and the WHITE wire is + POSITIVE IN to the battery from the charger. We have tested these thoroughly and that's how it is, We have had no problem with them charging with the CORRECT - LI-POLY charger and they are very good reliable batteries.

If you got a BRUSHLESS you should have a 'Y' connector to go to the receiver and the 'ACTIYATOR'
(speed controller) from the battery - if you have no 'Y' piece then you'll have to get one or change the connectors on the heli and the batteries.

Next check every last screw , hex grub etc, to make sure they are tight or not so tight as needed.
They tend to be OVERTIGHT from the factory and can become problematic - stripping HEX kEYS and the HEX BOLTS themslves rounding off - they are then difficult to deal with - We have spoken to them about this issue. SO BE AS CAREFULL AS YOU CAN WITH THEM.

The Tail blades should be 'swinging' pretty loose - they obtain their orientation from the inertia of rotation - This method goes a little way to help prevent stripping the tail drive gear on hard landings with the motor running - It is the correct way to set the tail BLADES - LOOSE - You WILL STRIP TAIL DRIVE GEARS - GET A FEW SPARES as a FIRST RESORT - IMMEDIATELY - followed by main blades, The rest is suprisingly resilient so get a range of spares for any eventuality anyway - This is good advice for any model helicopter owner.

Check the meshing of the tail drive gears - good description in the manual - make sure end bevel gears are a tight 90 degree fit.- Gear at motor end should mesh so that the teeth of the motor meet about half way between the 'vally' and 'Peak' in the tail gear - maybe a fraction closer to the valley ( closer)(tighter) - DO NOT MAKE IT A TIGHT FIT - there will be different opinion on this and is accepted - however I have flown lots and lots of Walkeras - set up like this, if you don't crash, they last a long long time. I have not converted any to belt drive systems as we can do. A less experienced or beginner may benefit from a belt driven drive tail as they don't strip.

Another thing that will cause debate is the use of piano wire for the tail servo - yes there is flexabilty - make sure your tail pitch is sliding smoothly on its bar and you will find that the system works perfectly OK - get the setup wrong and it can appear not to work at all - GET THE SETUP RIGHT - Check the very back end screw and make sure it's not 'squishing' the fitting together too tightly - If it is you'll notice now when you look from the back towards the front or down from above.

The tail fin is a fraction shorter than it might be and leaves the tail blades a bit close for comfort even on flat smooth ground - you may want to find a way of increasing the height by 10-30cm or whatever you feel happy with attatch a little stick or something.

Turn On
When you attach the battery to turn your helicopter on ( MAKE SURE TX is ON !!!!! ALWAYS FIRST )
The red LED on the control centre will flash 3-4 times then stay on red to indicate it has initialised the gyro. - If your LED continues to flash - check your throttle is down - OFF - and the throttle trim is low enough or off - Check the battery and all connections , this should ensure you get a steady LED indicating the helicopter is ready to fly. If your LED continues to flash and you cannot cure it with these remedies then you may need more expert help.

SERVOS:
from many helicopters, we have had nowhere near as many servo problems as reported here - It may be there was a large 'DODGY' batch - who knows - but here are some tips for setting up the servos. Servos 'HATE' static even go near a nylon carpet or other static source and it can sound like a cage of budgies. There can be a lot of static in the air on very dry low humidity days.

ON your TX make sure the Dip switches are as below:
1-off - 2 - off - 3 - off - 4 - on -4 determines the direction of the tail rudder - its a reverse switch - theres one on the gyro also so be carefull !!! - 5 - off - 6 - on - 7 - on - 8 - activates PLT and PZT knobs on the front panel of TX - PZT is a drastic pitch change setting for 3D - PLT is a 'NORMAL' non 3D pitch adjustment. If you have the heli flying nicely as you like make sure to set DIP Switch 8 to OFF to avoid upsetting your set-up.
9 - off - 10 Gear - you can operate external equipment if you like - landing GEAR, Lights etc. in generall this setting is obviously off. - If you like to see what all the switches do - One at a time with the heli on - flick the switch and watch the servos move postion - you'll soon get an understanding of whats going on - just remember to flick them back again because your set up is for the original settings !!! DO NOT FLICK THE FLIGHT MODE SWITCH ON THE FRONT

ALWAYS have the FLIGHT MODE SWITCH at postion N Normal. Mode 1 is for 3D and will fire your motor up to full speed - instantly - If your inexperienced YOU DON'T WANT THAT - I PROMISE

Make sure all your sticks and trims are centered - and throttle OFF - DOWN !!!!!!!!!!!!

Once your happy with your TX look at the helicopter and the manual and see how close your swashplate is to 'LEVEL' and how close the servo arms are to 90 degrees as shown in the manual.

If they are way out you can make the necessary adjustments by un-screwing the servo arm from the servo - move it round on the spline to the best required postion and refit.

When these postions are all correct you MAY notice any noisy 'CHATTERING' servos have gone quiet - what makes them chatter is being in a postion where there IS a FORCE applied on the servo that it not required - I.E the servo wants to travel further than it is able or vice versa, can't travel as far as it wants, so there is always an applied force - this causes servos to chatter. - To be sure, take all your servo arms off the servos completely - wiggle your sticks and centre everything and see if you have chattering still - If you DO then you may have interference - check your antenna from the receiver box thoroughly and all electrical connections and connectors including all the soldered points on the motor - DO NOT HOLD THE MODEL IN YOUR HAND OR ON ANY STATIC SOURCE SUCH AS A CARPET - Also the GYRO SERVO can tend to chatter away and is NORMAL operation, or you may well have that dodgy servo. The WALKERA servos are actually a reasonable quality servo comparible to some big makers cheaper ranges.

The next on the list is galileos observation that the linkage rods to the flybar from the swash plate are 2-3mm too long - remove them - unscrew the ball attachment - remove 2mm first and then refit them - use CA glue if the thread is so short you don't have much left to screw back on to - this will then make the crome stabiliser bars level and will prevent the top half of the swash plate being exposed to high exertion forces and fouling which occur on further servo travels.

Now you can check your basic blade pitch settings as per the manual about 0 to +3 degrees for practising - if your well past that then you don't need my advice on that.

Check the blade tracking again - as per the manual - the tightness of the blades should be that they will move when they strike an object but not so loose they are flapping about - they should hold when held horizontally on the vertical plane.

Check the flybar paddles are horizontal. If not adjust as necessary.

Make the trim settings on the gyro half to three quarters initially for the sensitivity and half for the servo travel on the tail, watch the tail when you adjust that trim and you will understand what it is doing.

During test flights you will be able to adjust the gyro according to your setup.
The other 2 teeny slider switches on the gyro are a heading hold lock and a reverse switch.

GO OVER ALL THESE THINGS and the MANUAL 2 or 3 times and really familiarise yourself with the workings of a CP Helicopter - especially if your used to fixed pitch models - They are completely different beasts and you NEED to understand whats going on when your controlling it and setting it up. When I say 2 or 3 times thats NOT REALLY enough - I know you all want to get out there and blast it into the sky but it don't work like that unless your a good pilot. Patience can save you a lot of wasted time and hard earned cash in spare parts.

DO NOT CONSIDER LEARNING to fly WITHOUT THE TRAINING UNDERCARRIAGE FOR THE HELICOPTER - DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT - Better still get a real good SIMULATOR and play on that a lot too. Please you need PATIENCE.

The whole thing is exactly like learning to ride a bicycle when you were younger X 2 - at first it seemed completely impossible - then you got stabilisers maybe and thought OK i'm a bit more confident now this is good - you carried on - it was still difficult - time to take the stabilisers off - back to difficult period for a short time - then suddenly - Success you can ride the bike no probs - but it took a fair while right!!! and you wanted to ride it for years from then on

OK the same path is taken for learning and setting up a CP helicopter - that's just the LEARNING AND SETTING UP of CP HELICOPTERS.
S**t I have to learn to ride the bike all over again to learn to FLY THE HELICOPTER. Yes pretend you have now forgotten how to ride that bike completely and you have to start all over again.

Riding the bike took a fair while right!!! - learning about CP Helicopters - setting up - Learning to fly properly takes ****ing ages!!!!

So you see its quite easy then to see who, on these forums has got to or past which stage.
When you understand this of people it becomes much easier to help them because you have a much wider view of the WHOLE picture.

OK - heli checked over - TX set up

The Walkera standard model with standard motor, standard 600mAh NiMh - correct setup - will lift off at less than half throttle - YES LESS than HALF THROTTLE - ALL of them without exeption - barring serious fault of course - I must stress - CORRECTLY SET UP - ON a machine that is NOT CORRECTLY set up it is possible to be at FULL THROTTLE and not come close to getting off the ground due to the swash plate - pitch angles - and flybars being so off from each others desired settings. They are not the easiest things to set up but once you get the hang of it you'll come to understand everything.

After a few tests - reading through the manual - which will be revised in perfect English - and getting all the tips you can from resources such as this - You will have enourmous enjoyment of your Walkera #35 - It is a very capable machine - When your at that stage you can think about upgrades and improvements that won't get broken buy messing around.

Another little tip that can be usefull for beginners is to make a fitting out of polystyrene foam or whatever your imagination can come up with and make a ring that fits around the left - right - forward - backward stick on your TX to prevent the stick being able to move to its furthest postion in every direction - the effect of this on nearly ALL MICRO and others for that matter is to stop the servos travelling out of suitable range causing stressess and binding on the swashplate and related components, If you have a higher Quality TX you can set servo travel limits on your TX to acheive the same effect.

cptsnoopy

thanks for taking the time to post that information hueyman!

nirvana0001

Thank you! hueyman! Your post is very nice!
I am much understand now.

dyonis-my

super user and setup guide ! thank you very much

rudeboy.inc

Please dont flood the boy
Read this NOTHING else will help you more to learn to fly a heli
Read ! FOLLOW it! dont cheat ! and WAIT your time BEFORE you lift
you will not regret it

[link=http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html]READ THIS !!!!!!!!!!!!![/link]

hueyman

My Feedback: (2)

thanks but the info was written by others. i cut and pasted from different posts. i just finished setup and testing per above. watch those 10 dip switch settings. i had to leave swt.7 on (ccpm). if swt.7 left off as suggested above, a left aileron would also give me negative pitch - right aileron would give me increase in positive pitch. same thing with up and down elevator. not good. if swt.7 on, all is ok. also with swt.9 on, pitch controls and adjustment knobs gave reverse action - had to leave switch 9 on. all other information worked for me.

warren52nz

STEP AWAY FROM THE HELICOPTER.... SLOWLY..
8^)

Seriously, you really need to do a lot of reading and simulator practice before powering it up.

Good Luck!

giles25

you dont necessarily need simulator practice, you just have to take it slowly in stages. First trying to keep helicopter straight just before takeoff then eventually you will be able to keep it still in hover.

Norrmannen

Yep, you can do without sim, you need training gear, patience and spare blades