Rotofly is driving me mad!
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Rotofly is driving me mad!
We have gone through battery pack after battery pack trying to tune this thing in and no luck. We have done the tail motor mods and ,it still wants to to fly wildly ,to clarify we have two of these POS helis. This is a very hard heli to dial-in and it just will not give in to our attempts. it wants to drift very bad and wants to do very small circle patterns while in a hover. The manual tells nothing on adjustments of the flybar paddles,gain controls or anything else for that matter. i have a Blade CX that puts this Rotofly to shame. Any ideas would be appreciated.[8D]
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RE: Rotofly is driving me mad!
First of all, let me assure you that the Rotofly will fly well if you make the proper adjustments. The bottom screw on the speed control is the gyro gain and the top screw is the tail motor mixer adjustment. Start off by putting both screws at the two o'clock position. After these adjustments, try flying and if you have any tail wag you will need to adjust the bottom screw ever so slightly either way until you no longer have tail wag. Now adjust the top screw if needed until copter hovers without turning left or right. If you still are having a problem after this, maybe you have a bad speed control. Concerning the flybar paddles, make sure they are perfectly in line with the seesaw assembly and even if they are not perfect it will not matter that much. Now I have a question about the tail modifications you have done. Could you explain in detail what changes you have made?
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RE: Rotofly is driving me mad!
The rotofly will not hover hands off like the Blade CX will. It's a fixed pitch pod and boom micro. They're about the hardest you're going to get in terms of flight in the micro copter world. It's pretty normal for most micro FP helis to drift and skitter around alot. They require constant in flight correction to maintain a steady hover.
Put simply, I don't think there is anything wrong with your rotofly, you just need more practice flying it [8D]. The rotofly operates more like a real helicopter in that it requires constant input to maintain stability. A counter-rotation helicopter like the Blade CX will pretty much fly it's self and has self-righting capabilities because of it's design. Basically, one helicopter pretty much flies hands off, whereas the other, does not.
There are, however, some things you can do to increase the in-air stability of your helicopter.
1. Put weights on the flybar if there isnt any. Wheel collars work good for this. They will tame the cyclic response. This may be a good or bad thing, depending on your skill. If you're used to making quick, small movements, you may be better off without the weights. If you're a newbie who tends to over-correct alot, the weights can help.
2. Either flatten your blades a little bit, or increase the weight of the helicopter a little bit to bring the headspeed up higher. It will add stability at the expense of some reserve power.
3. Put your blades as tight as they will safely go, and then align them before each flight manually. This won't really do anything for in-air stability, but if you're having vibration problems (and down the line, tail control problems), this is one of the most common sources of it. The tight but not too tight method doesn't work that well for FP micros.
As Gibbon stated, make sure the paddles are level with the swashplate, and make sure your whole head is balanced to reduce as much vibration as possible (which is a big culprit in gyro drift).
Put simply, I don't think there is anything wrong with your rotofly, you just need more practice flying it [8D]. The rotofly operates more like a real helicopter in that it requires constant input to maintain stability. A counter-rotation helicopter like the Blade CX will pretty much fly it's self and has self-righting capabilities because of it's design. Basically, one helicopter pretty much flies hands off, whereas the other, does not.
There are, however, some things you can do to increase the in-air stability of your helicopter.
1. Put weights on the flybar if there isnt any. Wheel collars work good for this. They will tame the cyclic response. This may be a good or bad thing, depending on your skill. If you're used to making quick, small movements, you may be better off without the weights. If you're a newbie who tends to over-correct alot, the weights can help.
2. Either flatten your blades a little bit, or increase the weight of the helicopter a little bit to bring the headspeed up higher. It will add stability at the expense of some reserve power.
3. Put your blades as tight as they will safely go, and then align them before each flight manually. This won't really do anything for in-air stability, but if you're having vibration problems (and down the line, tail control problems), this is one of the most common sources of it. The tight but not too tight method doesn't work that well for FP micros.
As Gibbon stated, make sure the paddles are level with the swashplate, and make sure your whole head is balanced to reduce as much vibration as possible (which is a big culprit in gyro drift).