Hornet tail servo installation????
06-30-2003, 02:00 AM
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Hornet tail servo installation????
Can anybody give me any detailed pics or detailed instructions on how the tail servo on the hornet is glued to the boom (i.e. position, which servo hole, etc.) The manual goes into somewhat detail about it, but it seemed a little confusing. I just want tog et it right so i dont mess up another boom. THANX
06-30-2003, 01:28 PM
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Hornet tail servo installation????
First, don't be stressed about it. You will find yourself gluing the tail servo on multiple times as you start to actually fly your Hornet. No big deal. You won't mess up the boom; you can always break it off then clean up the boom with some debonder and a hobby knife. Anyway, this is how I do it, there are probably lots of good ways:
1. I make a carbon plate to stick the servo to. You can also use the supplied plastic plate.
2. Stick the plate onto the servo with thin double sided foam tape (like Bolink brand). (Some use "Shoe Goo" instead of tape; others shrink-wrap the servo and glue it directly to either the plate or the boom, then just cut the shrink wrap to remove the servo).
3. If you're using HS 50 or HS 55 servos, use the long double-armed horn with the small holes. I use the inside hole on the horn because I use an HLG200 gyro and that's the only way to limit travel to the point that I need. If you are using a different gyro like the GY240, you can limit travel with the Gyro and use the middle hole. Keep in mind that the farther out the hole, the more "mechanical gain" you will have (i.e., a given servo movement will produce more tail pitch change, so the tail is mechanically more sensitive).
4. Center the horn so that it ponts toward and, is perpendicular to, the mounting plate.
5. Get your tail gearbox mounted and meshed. For most people, you want the bellcrank arm that connects to the pushrod to be at a right angle to the boom. My set up differs, but that's because of the gyro and after market parts I am using back there.
6. Make up your pushrod. You can glue the rear clevis to the rod. For the front clevis, I use an aftermarket threaded end on the pushrod and screw the clevis on. Before I bought the rod ends, I put a small wheeel collar over the barrel of the clevis, slipped the pushrod in, then tightened down the set screw. This gives you an adjustible length pushrod.
7. Don't glue the pushrod support to the boom just yet, but make sure it is threaded onto the pushrod and just hanging free.
8. Install the boom on the frame and get the cone gear meshed properly. Also, attach the pushrod clevis to the servo horn.
9. To glue the servo to the boom, I use a little engineer's square, but you could use any number of make-shift "jigs" to accomplish the same result. I zip-tie the servo to the vertical blade of the square, which holds the servo at the height I need and also keeps it nice and plumb.
10. I simply butt the servo/plate up to the boom, adjust the height as necessary so the bottom of the servo plate is just a bit higher than the bottom radius of the boom. I leave about 1/8 inch gap between the front of the servo plate and the back of the frame--you don't want any CA getting on the frame because you will end up gluing your boom to the frame!
Not good. Check that everything looks square, and then apply a small frop of thin CA in the trough formed between the right radius of the boom and the servo plate. Let dry. Cut off the zip tie.
11. I reinforce it with a small fillet of med CA in the trough.
12. After triple-checking that my gearbox is square (the engineer's square is a great little tool for this too--perfect size)and co-alligned with the servo, I adjust the position of the pushrod support until it is about half way between the servo and the gearbox, and allow the pushrod itself to align it. After checking that it's square to the boom, I apply a very small drop of thin CA.
You're done!
1. I make a carbon plate to stick the servo to. You can also use the supplied plastic plate.
2. Stick the plate onto the servo with thin double sided foam tape (like Bolink brand). (Some use "Shoe Goo" instead of tape; others shrink-wrap the servo and glue it directly to either the plate or the boom, then just cut the shrink wrap to remove the servo).
3. If you're using HS 50 or HS 55 servos, use the long double-armed horn with the small holes. I use the inside hole on the horn because I use an HLG200 gyro and that's the only way to limit travel to the point that I need. If you are using a different gyro like the GY240, you can limit travel with the Gyro and use the middle hole. Keep in mind that the farther out the hole, the more "mechanical gain" you will have (i.e., a given servo movement will produce more tail pitch change, so the tail is mechanically more sensitive).
4. Center the horn so that it ponts toward and, is perpendicular to, the mounting plate.
5. Get your tail gearbox mounted and meshed. For most people, you want the bellcrank arm that connects to the pushrod to be at a right angle to the boom. My set up differs, but that's because of the gyro and after market parts I am using back there.
6. Make up your pushrod. You can glue the rear clevis to the rod. For the front clevis, I use an aftermarket threaded end on the pushrod and screw the clevis on. Before I bought the rod ends, I put a small wheeel collar over the barrel of the clevis, slipped the pushrod in, then tightened down the set screw. This gives you an adjustible length pushrod.
7. Don't glue the pushrod support to the boom just yet, but make sure it is threaded onto the pushrod and just hanging free.
8. Install the boom on the frame and get the cone gear meshed properly. Also, attach the pushrod clevis to the servo horn.
9. To glue the servo to the boom, I use a little engineer's square, but you could use any number of make-shift "jigs" to accomplish the same result. I zip-tie the servo to the vertical blade of the square, which holds the servo at the height I need and also keeps it nice and plumb.
10. I simply butt the servo/plate up to the boom, adjust the height as necessary so the bottom of the servo plate is just a bit higher than the bottom radius of the boom. I leave about 1/8 inch gap between the front of the servo plate and the back of the frame--you don't want any CA getting on the frame because you will end up gluing your boom to the frame!
Not good. Check that everything looks square, and then apply a small frop of thin CA in the trough formed between the right radius of the boom and the servo plate. Let dry. Cut off the zip tie.11. I reinforce it with a small fillet of med CA in the trough.
12. After triple-checking that my gearbox is square (the engineer's square is a great little tool for this too--perfect size)and co-alligned with the servo, I adjust the position of the pushrod support until it is about half way between the servo and the gearbox, and allow the pushrod itself to align it. After checking that it's square to the boom, I apply a very small drop of thin CA.
You're done!
