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Old 04-04-2006, 12:18 PM
  #1  
pulquijet
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Default hot esc

My Feigao 1308412s (7800RPM/v) motor with a 18A ESC and a Litio polymer pack (7,2v 1020mAh) run normal not to much power( direct drive GWS 4025 prop)
My pack is a gws 7,2V 1020 mAh
When I connect a 11,6v 1800 mAh pack ,the motor roar and push great,but the ESC become hot ant the motor stop.
I try different props sizes,and is the same for biggers or smaller.
Please,let me know what is wrong on this set-up.
Best regards,
P edro
Old 04-04-2006, 03:43 PM
  #2  
Ed Waldrep
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Default RE: hot esc

Well that's a very high rpm/volt motor. With the larger battery pack you are getting higher voltages, and the motor is running at a higher rpm and pulling more power. The speed control is running too hot and the overtemp function is cutting power. You could cut a hole in the fuselage too allow in some cooling air, and you could strap a computer memory finned heat-sink to the face of the controller, which will let it run cooler.
Old 04-04-2006, 04:46 PM
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bigchap
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Default RE: hot esc

your prop is too big!
Old 04-05-2006, 08:37 AM
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pulquijet
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Default RE: hot esc

Thanks, Ed.
I will try to gear it down.
Best regards,
Pedro
Old 04-05-2006, 06:40 PM
  #5  
bbrown210
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Default RE: hot esc

one thing that might help is a nice do it your self thing is make a H bridge circut to power the motor that way the motor can pull what it wants but wont kill and overheat your ESC or try some better FETs. I dunno what kinda room you have in your plane for this kind of mod but it dont take to much space up.
Old 04-06-2006, 12:26 PM
  #6  
lwatson
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Default RE: hot esc

It is a good thing to invest in an ampmeter, Sears makes one for about $40 that measures DC amps and clips over the wires. Using this you will find out how many amps are being drawn, then you can scale back the prop until you get it to peak at about 15 amps. The other alternative is to buy a new ESC that will take more amps. (like 30).

Good Luck,

Larry
Old 04-06-2006, 08:43 PM
  #7  
bbrown210
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Default RE: hot esc

I still thinking a H bridge circut would work better than scaling the prop. Using the H bridge circut it solders on to the main bored before the FETs or any other electronics so that the motor can pull all the amps it wants and not fry and over heat your bored. Its a good way to make the plane use what you want and not kill it. I do the same thing with my RC cars and trucks so i can run hotter motors withough frying or over heating my electronics. If your intrested in a H bridge I know a guy that be able to build you a custom one for you to suit your needs for around 50-60 bucks along with simple instalation instructions. He can build them to allow what ever you need for the most part. I use him all the time hes very good at what he does and had great feedback on any questions you might have.

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