Gorilla Glue for Assembly?
07-18-2010 | 11:28 PM
#2
Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Altamonte Springs,
FL
RE: Gorilla Glue for Assembly?
I like Gorilla Glue for foamies. It is important to moisten the surfaces before applying the Gorilla glue, the more water you add the more the glue foams up. The foam drys hard and can be sanded down or trimmed with a dremel tool.
07-19-2010 | 10:43 AM
#4
My Feedback: (9)
RE: Gorilla Glue for Assembly?
It is greas specially with foam,but it expands.
So if you are not carefull you can found that the glued part moved.
Use it where there is room for the expansion to occur or your part will move if not properly taped.
Will not recomend for gluing wings or tail feathers for the risk of loosing adjustment.
Cheers,
Juan
So if you are not carefull you can found that the glued part moved.
Use it where there is room for the expansion to occur or your part will move if not properly taped.
Will not recomend for gluing wings or tail feathers for the risk of loosing adjustment.
Cheers,
Juan
07-19-2010 | 05:21 PM
#5
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Gorilla Glue for Assembly?
The white gorilla glue cures very fast-> within 20 minutes. It doesn't sand as well as the amber glue which takes 4 hours to fully cure at 70 deg F. It sticks to everything and fills gaps.
Both amber and white can be trimmed with a knife. I like to use those segmented "snap off" utility knives to trim any expanded glue flush with a surface by slicing in a sawing motion as you flex the knife to be flush with the surface. (extend the knife fully and don't actually snap off any blades to do this). Makes servo installations and repairs really easy.
For anything glued into foam I've been using the white gorilla glue almost exclusively. Mist with water and spread the glue for best results as skirack wrote. Epoxy takes too long, is too messy, needs mixing and wont' stay in the joint as well by comparison. In my shop epoxy has been relagated to my fuel power applications where constant vibration, or pounding takes place (like firewalls made out of plywood glued to other hard wooden parts). The amber and white expanding polyurethane glues do the job better and forgive "sloppier" joints due to their foaming action while providing a large measure of reducing stress risers when bonding items in porous expanded bead foams.
Joe
Both amber and white can be trimmed with a knife. I like to use those segmented "snap off" utility knives to trim any expanded glue flush with a surface by slicing in a sawing motion as you flex the knife to be flush with the surface. (extend the knife fully and don't actually snap off any blades to do this). Makes servo installations and repairs really easy.
For anything glued into foam I've been using the white gorilla glue almost exclusively. Mist with water and spread the glue for best results as skirack wrote. Epoxy takes too long, is too messy, needs mixing and wont' stay in the joint as well by comparison. In my shop epoxy has been relagated to my fuel power applications where constant vibration, or pounding takes place (like firewalls made out of plywood glued to other hard wooden parts). The amber and white expanding polyurethane glues do the job better and forgive "sloppier" joints due to their foaming action while providing a large measure of reducing stress risers when bonding items in porous expanded bead foams.
Joe
