Hobbico Superstar EP
#26
Thread Starter
Senior Member
One way to solve the landing gear mains issue is to simply replace it with non-wire gear mains. Tower Hobbies sells a new series of light aluminum gear mains from BJs specifically designed for electric planes. Go [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=gear+mains&FVPROFIL=++&search3=G o]here[/link].
#27
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My Jeti Phasor 30-3 motor arrived before my 2-cell Kokam 3.2AH pack so I decided to go ahead and test it in my Superstar. I also used a Jeti 40-amp ESC with BEC and a 5mm prop adapter that I had with a red spinner.
The Jeti Phasor motor mounted perfectly and I could even secure the front to the stock aluminum mount using two M3x10mm screws.
I tested the power system with my 3-cell Kokam 3.2AH pack and measured 280 watts at 25amps using an old Kyosho 9x6 nylon prop. Nothing in the power system is being stressed at that current level so even though full throttle will provide unlimited vertical climb, you could leave the stick at full all day long. Note the connector style change to Dean's Ultra to properly handle the higher current.
Even with the 3-cell Kokam 3.2AH pack that has the equivalent voltage to a 10-cell NiCd pack, my Superstar was RTF at 3oz under stock weight (45oz/2.8lb) which is almost 1/4lb drop. My new power level is now a powerful 100w/lb which will provide spectacular aerobatics!
The Jeti Phasor motor mounted perfectly and I could even secure the front to the stock aluminum mount using two M3x10mm screws.
I tested the power system with my 3-cell Kokam 3.2AH pack and measured 280 watts at 25amps using an old Kyosho 9x6 nylon prop. Nothing in the power system is being stressed at that current level so even though full throttle will provide unlimited vertical climb, you could leave the stick at full all day long. Note the connector style change to Dean's Ultra to properly handle the higher current.
Even with the 3-cell Kokam 3.2AH pack that has the equivalent voltage to a 10-cell NiCd pack, my Superstar was RTF at 3oz under stock weight (45oz/2.8lb) which is almost 1/4lb drop. My new power level is now a powerful 100w/lb which will provide spectacular aerobatics!
#30
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Senior Member
My 2" wheel upgrade didn't feel quite large enough and the wheels I had found at home were poor quality so I decided to buy some Du-Bro 2-1/2" (250SL) [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=250SL&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go]Super Lite Wheels[/link] with tread. The center holes were too big for my Superstar gear mains so I used some 5/32 diameter round aluminum tubing for inserts.
With my Phasor motor upgrade, it should easily take off from grass now.
With my Phasor motor upgrade, it should easily take off from grass now.
#31
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Senior Member
A simple upgrade to the stock power system would be to replace the 13oz 7-cell NiCd pack with a 7.5oz, 2-cell, 3.2AH [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKRR7&P=7]BalancePro[/link] Lithium pack. The voltage under load is slightly higher with the BalancePro pack and the flight duration is 1.5 times as long. The 5.5oz drop in flying weight will provide a great gain in power when using the stock Speed 600 motor.
When used with the matching [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKRR4&P=7]BalancePro Charger[/link], the Lithium pack safety and longevity will be maintained for well over 200 cycles.
When used with the matching [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKRR4&P=7]BalancePro Charger[/link], the Lithium pack safety and longevity will be maintained for well over 200 cycles.
#32
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Senior Member
After test flying my new power system using a pavement takeoff, the tail would often spin out when trying slower more scale takeoffs. I decided that my modified Superstar needed one last hop-up.
I used an RA1300 [link=http://www.hobby-lobby.com/landinggear.htm]Complete Tailwheel Assembly[/link] from Hobby Lobby to easily create a steerable tailwheel. By simply drilling a hole through the fuselage tail so that the metal wire was in line with the rudder leading edge, I made a few bends and epoxied it to the rudder. The tailewheel base fits in a custom cut groove and is held by the two supplied screws.
Note that the actual position of the drilled hole was 2-1/4" from the rear fuselage tip and not where shown in the photo. After the epoxy had dried, I recovered the rudder bottom with some white Monokote.
Since my new power system provided superb power and flight times, it was time for my second video!
I used an RA1300 [link=http://www.hobby-lobby.com/landinggear.htm]Complete Tailwheel Assembly[/link] from Hobby Lobby to easily create a steerable tailwheel. By simply drilling a hole through the fuselage tail so that the metal wire was in line with the rudder leading edge, I made a few bends and epoxied it to the rudder. The tailewheel base fits in a custom cut groove and is held by the two supplied screws.
Note that the actual position of the drilled hole was 2-1/4" from the rear fuselage tip and not where shown in the photo. After the epoxy had dried, I recovered the rudder bottom with some white Monokote.
Since my new power system provided superb power and flight times, it was time for my second video!
#34
Thread Starter
Senior Member
The wind was 0-5mph for this video. We took off pavement and grass that was rather long. It was not a flying field but rather an office park. The hop-ups really made my Superstar EP a great all around flyer with plenty of power and a 15-20 minute flight time with aerobatics.
[link=http://www.gregcovey.com/rcu3/SuperstarEP2.wmv]Superstar EP Hop-up Video2[/link] (6.6meg)
Here is the list of hop-ups on my Superstar EP
[ul][*] Bigger 2-1/2" Dubro wheels[*] 3-cell Kokam 3.2AH Lithium pack[*] Jeti Phasor 30-3 motor replacement[*] 9x6 prop[*] steerable tailwheel
[/ul]
[link=http://www.gregcovey.com/rcu3/SuperstarEP2.wmv]Superstar EP Hop-up Video2[/link] (6.6meg)
Here is the list of hop-ups on my Superstar EP
[ul][*] Bigger 2-1/2" Dubro wheels[*] 3-cell Kokam 3.2AH Lithium pack[*] Jeti Phasor 30-3 motor replacement[*] 9x6 prop[*] steerable tailwheel
[/ul]
#35
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From: colville,
WA
great video. that motor makes her jump off the pavement real quick. looks like a great plane! greg, i want to get this plane in the ARF version. do you think that JR NES-241 sub micros on the elevator and the rudder and an HS-55 on the ailerons would work? i know it would save weight but would they be powerful enough?
#36
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From: EUGENE, OR
see, i told you you will fly a long time!! that sure turns a toad to a prince-of-a-plane.. i have also finished a thunder tiger fun fly 51 mustang. phasor 45/3 jeti 70 opti and tpower 4200ma 2s 3 cell. flies very gentle and also a long flight time.. next project: gp dc3 lipo/brushless twin. 3 of 6 of my castor-slobbering planes are in the classifieds as i write this.
#37
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Senior Member
losi24,
Those servos are too small for this application. My Hobbico CS-35 Mini Servos have 55oz-in torque. It's basically a 2/3 weight standard servo. Use an HS-81 as a minimum or preferably an HS-85.
RD55,
Yes, I had no doubt that your Phasor 30-3 was a good selection. We only disagreed on it's power source. Note that my Kokam 3.2AH pack can deliver 64amps and I only draw 25amps at full throttle. Nothing in the power system gets stressed.
Those servos are too small for this application. My Hobbico CS-35 Mini Servos have 55oz-in torque. It's basically a 2/3 weight standard servo. Use an HS-81 as a minimum or preferably an HS-85.
RD55,
Yes, I had no doubt that your Phasor 30-3 was a good selection. We only disagreed on it's power source. Note that my Kokam 3.2AH pack can deliver 64amps and I only draw 25amps at full throttle. Nothing in the power system gets stressed.
#40
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From: Plainsboro,
NJ
Hello Greg, I've been trying to get the brushless video to work but it's coming up as an error. Is that video still online ? I'm actually in the process of upgrading mine to brushless also, and would like to see your video. I just finished my custom firewall/adapter for my Mega brushless stick mount.
Thanks, NJf 72
Thanks, NJf 72
#41
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Senior Member
Yes, I just tested the second video link successfully. Try a right mouse click on the link and select "Save Link As" or sometimes it reads "Save Target As" to save it to your harddrive first before playing it.
#43
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From: Carpinteria,
CA
I have a Superstar with Ailerons I use for a video camera plane. I use an AXI 2808-20 with a wood 10X6 prop and it will go vertical as long as I want. I use the wood prop because it looks cool and performs as well as an APC. The plane weighs 2 lbs 6 ounces with a 2100 mAh ThunderPower 3 cell Li Poly. I replaced the gear with an aluminum one I fabricated from 6061-T6 aluminum which I bought from scrap for a couple of dollars from a metal supplier but you can buy the same thing from model suppliers. I moved the main servos (Hitec 425 BB) forward under the CG and put the Thunder Power battery over the landing gear. That way I can shift the battery around for correct C/G depending on the confirguration I am using with the camera.
The landing gear just bolts on with two 6-32 bolts. I cut a piece of white vinyl 3" by 1" to put it crosswise between the fuselage and the aluminum gear to protect the fuse from the aluminum gear shock. Many flights and the fuselage is perfect and no landing gear problems. It is beautiful.
I also use "Tundra Tires" which are inflatable tires from Trexler (330) 296-9677. They are their # 6 heavy wall tires and really cushion the landing and stop bouncing and facilitate takeoffs in rough fields due to their width. They are fun to inflate, and can be patched with a bicycle patch kit if you damage one on a sharp object.
I use two HS-81 servos for the ailerons, each mounted in 1/2 of the wing which I made to come apart for transport. I made the wing bolt-on.
I'm using a videocam from Black Widow and downlink to a Sony Digital Video Recorder, although you can use a video cam as easily.
I added a steerable tailwheel driven from a second pushrod running thorugh a tube and attached to the rudder servo.
The power of the outrunner is not required all the time, but in a pinch I can push the throttle up and get out of a tight spot with the camera onboard.
I use a Jeti speed control.
Finally I latch the bottom hatch with a 1/2" wide by 1-1/4" long white vinyl tab cut out of 1/16" vinyl sheet from the hobby shop. It is attached to the middle of the hatch at the front with a 2-56 bolt permanently and to the landing gear with a 4-40 nylon bolt which runs into a tapped hole in the middle of the landing gear. Loosen this bolt to take the hatch off.
I want it easy to remove but very secure. I did an 1/2 loop pullout from inverted and it threw the 2100 mAh Li Poly out through the hatch opening as I pulled level and I never found the battery. I had the hatch held on with a rubber band temporarily while I was experimenting. Learned from that. Now I velcro the battery in place with a 1" X 1-1/2" piece of velcro, and put a strap around it too and bolt the hatch closed. Too expensive and dangerous firing Li-Poly missiles out of a plane over the freeway which is what happened. The plane fluttered down and landed on a strip of grass unharmed.
The landing gear just bolts on with two 6-32 bolts. I cut a piece of white vinyl 3" by 1" to put it crosswise between the fuselage and the aluminum gear to protect the fuse from the aluminum gear shock. Many flights and the fuselage is perfect and no landing gear problems. It is beautiful.
I also use "Tundra Tires" which are inflatable tires from Trexler (330) 296-9677. They are their # 6 heavy wall tires and really cushion the landing and stop bouncing and facilitate takeoffs in rough fields due to their width. They are fun to inflate, and can be patched with a bicycle patch kit if you damage one on a sharp object.
I use two HS-81 servos for the ailerons, each mounted in 1/2 of the wing which I made to come apart for transport. I made the wing bolt-on.
I'm using a videocam from Black Widow and downlink to a Sony Digital Video Recorder, although you can use a video cam as easily.
I added a steerable tailwheel driven from a second pushrod running thorugh a tube and attached to the rudder servo.
The power of the outrunner is not required all the time, but in a pinch I can push the throttle up and get out of a tight spot with the camera onboard.
I use a Jeti speed control.
Finally I latch the bottom hatch with a 1/2" wide by 1-1/4" long white vinyl tab cut out of 1/16" vinyl sheet from the hobby shop. It is attached to the middle of the hatch at the front with a 2-56 bolt permanently and to the landing gear with a 4-40 nylon bolt which runs into a tapped hole in the middle of the landing gear. Loosen this bolt to take the hatch off.
I want it easy to remove but very secure. I did an 1/2 loop pullout from inverted and it threw the 2100 mAh Li Poly out through the hatch opening as I pulled level and I never found the battery. I had the hatch held on with a rubber band temporarily while I was experimenting. Learned from that. Now I velcro the battery in place with a 1" X 1-1/2" piece of velcro, and put a strap around it too and bolt the hatch closed. Too expensive and dangerous firing Li-Poly missiles out of a plane over the freeway which is what happened. The plane fluttered down and landed on a strip of grass unharmed.
#44
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Thanks for the write-up and photos on your Superstar EP. It is more proof, that with some minor hop-ups, you can get optimum performance out of this most "modeler-friendly" trainer in the industry.
#45
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From: Fort Wayne,
IN
Hello everyone, I have just put together a superstar EP and was looking for and Idea to install a steerable tail wheel, anyone have any ideas?
Thanks for your help
larry
Thanks for your help
larry
#46
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From: Peachtree City,
GA
I just bought my SS ep, and had the same problem that many of you have, the short 2-3 minute flight times on the stock battery. I converted mine to glow using a LA 20 engine. It cruises easily at about quarter throttle and gets flight times of about 15-18 min using a 3 oz. tank. At full throttle, it has nearly unlimited vertical performance.




