windshadow

yep it is dead

windshadow

plane is going back to the factory to see why the ecs is getting blazing hot and then she starts shutting down when flying. the plane is a great flyer just hope this problem getts fixed at the factory before they send it back to me. The ecs is getting real hot now. After I run the plane for 2 min the motor starts to surge, and then she shuts down. I bench tested her on 3 different battey packs same problem with all three sets, I also used the same battery packs in my other plane and no problems. I will let you know how the factory handles this problem. the other plane is not an electristar.

cwharper

I'm new to the RC airplane world and wanted a good slow flying stable plane to start with. A friend of mine let me try the G3.5 simulator and that's how I selected the Electristar to be my first plane. I got real good on the simulator at taking off, floating around, and landing. But on the first flight with the real Electristar I quickly noted the simulator didn't prepare me at all for the sensitivity of the controls. The simulator acted kind of sluggish, which is what I wanted, but I found myself over correcting the real Electristar and finally landed in the top of a patch of planted pine trees. When I finally got the plane down, the rubber bands had pulled or broke off one of the wooden dowels and pushed their way through the wing frame. It's probably repairable but I don't know how to do it and will now wait until the replacement parts come in from backorder.

From the review pictures posted on RC universe it appears that only 4 rubber bands were used to secure the wing, can Greg confirm this?

Has anybody else had any problems with using rhe recommended total of 14 rubber bands?

spacestout

I built my "less than 1 hour" Electristar in over 12 hours. Used 2- 2s1p 4200mAh LiPos. Was confused by the insert saying the receiver was the Futaba R168DF when in the plane was the R127DF. Biggest issue is that I can get the plane to arm. Tried a servo on the receiver throttle position and it worked. All control surfaces work. Even tinkered with end points, throttle reversal in the xmitter, and trim. But still get nothing in moving the throttle from 0 to full to 0. No beeps, no motor.

I'm about to conclude the ESC is bad. Most LHS don't have the SS-45D laying around to swap out.

Anyone else faced this? I've seen other forums where folks can't get their ESC's to arm with Futaba radios, but it was unclear what they did to remedy things.

crashproof

Hey guys I have flown the Electricstar 5 flights and the plane handles well but I am having a problem with the motor sputtering. Anyone else having this problem ? Anyone have any ideas why this could be happening. It starts usually after a couple minutes and is mainly at full throttle. Any help or ideas will be appreciated. Thanks, Kevin Mac.

cwharper

My Electristar does not do that with a fully charged battery. I'm using the 3000mah 7 cell NiMH battery x 2 from great planes. However after 8 minutes it will no longer run smooth at full throttle as I'm guessing the battery packs have been depleted and I have about one more minute before I'm completely out of power. So mine only "sputters" when the packs are almost depleted but not on a fully charged pack. I've probably drained and charged my packs up four or five times now. The first charge on new packs I did a 1/10C or 300mah which probably helped some. Some on this forum have said the problem goes away with lipo packs.

crashproof

Thanks for the reply CW I was thinking about going with lipo's anyway. I wonder how much that will throw the CG off ? I guess time will tell. Thanks Kevin Mac.

ro347

My Feedback: (13)

i recieived my Electristar about a week ago. The covering has a lot of wrinkles and bubbles in it. Would ironing it make everything smooth and tight? Would I be able to use a regular blow dryer(hair)?

I cant wait to fly it...but its been Windy in jersey lately also trying to find a large enough field.

Jon The Buddha

I had planned on picking this plane up this week at my LHS. However, I now need a little reassurance.

I didn't originally realize that it was modeled in RealFlight G3.5. I have had G3 for some time, but hadn't upgraded to 3.5. Once I realized this plane was part of 3.5, I quickly downloaded and installed the upgrade. I was severly dissapointed in the performance of the plane!!!! Please tell me that it doesn't take full throttle to keep it solidly in the air like it does in the sim! The reviews I have read all praise the performance and seem to indicate that it should perform easily at reduced throttle, but the sim version on mine is a dog! I have to keep full throttle to get good flight characteristics. My sim settings should all be defaults, so nothing that I know of has been changed.

If anyone has both 3.5 AND the real plane, could you please confirm how accurate (or not) the performance is??? Thanks!

-Jon in OKC-

crashproof

John my plane flies very well at around half throttle. I fly it there to help the batts and the flight time be increased with no problems. I have the 3.5 and my plane flys similar to the 3.5 except it does not like to be inverted, atleast mine does'nt. Kevin Mac.

Jon The Buddha

Thanks Crash. I guess its just goofy on my sim.

crashproof

I have a question concerning switching to lipo batts. If I did this with my Electricstar does the ESC need to be set up for them somehow ? or will the use of the lipo batt be no different to the system ? If their are steps I can find nothing about them in my manuals. Thanks for any info. Kevin Mac.

Jon The Buddha

I've read three or four very in-depth reviews of the Electristar (BTW, I bought one today [8D]), and almost all mention the ability to use NiMh and lipos interchangeably. In fact, the review at [link=http://www.masportaviator.com/ah.asp?CatID=1&ID=165]Sport Aviator[/link] specifically says...

"The Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) installed in this aircraft (the ElectriFly SS-45D brushless ESC) can draw power from either Ni-MH or Lithium Polymer (Li-Poly) battery packs. The speed controller automatically senses the battery type being used and adjusts accordingly."

I think the main thing is that if you went with the lipos, it could affect your CG. Make sure you double check it! One review I saw said the lighter lipo packs would potentialy shift the CG aft. They thought putting both lipos in the forward compartment instead of putting one on either side would balance it out pretty good.

I've got mine all put together, now I just need to set the throws and get it in the air! I went with the recommended NiMh batteries mainly because I don't wan't to accidently burn my house down. I've seen WAY to many stories lately of lipos going up in flames... and several of those were by very seasoned flyers! I know I can use ceramic items and lipo sacks for protection, but I have toddlers in the house, so I am just going to play it safe for a while.

-Jon-

crashproof

Thanks for the info Jon, I think I will just stick with the nimh as well. I fly gassers and just picked it up for its ease and to get a quick flight in without all the hassles. The lipos do seem alittle risky from what I have seen as well. Good luck with the flight, my plane had alot of control throw and was actually very nimble in the air which I liked. Kevin Mac.

spacestout

I've been enjoying my Electristar. I wanted a trainer, but wanted it heavy enough to fly in wind. I'm set up with 2 7.4 4200mAh LiPos and as a backup, 1 14.8 Lipo. $400 in batteries, wow. I like the convenience of the single 4 cell pack, but my charger will only put out 3.2 A as opposed to 4.2 when charging the 7.4. I draw about 28A at full throttle. I'm confused as to the need for 63A current sourcing.

My plane's ESC was DOA. I sent it back for repair. They said mine was fine but sent a new one anyway (at least I got the data sheet for the ESC which has additional information over the manual). The new ESC dropped in and armed right away.

Does anyone know who makes the C-42 motor? I'd like to find data on current handling etc so I can choose the best prop size for my 4200' elevation.

By the way, with my Thunder Power 15C 7.4V 4200mAh Lipos, I slide one into the front battery bay all the way under the battery bracket against the stops. I place the second right up against the first using velcro under the battery and the velcro strap around it. The COG works out perfectly this way. Trying to put the second LiPo in the back battery bay resulted in Aft COG. My 14.8 V LiPo is just two of the 7.4's wrapped end-to-end so it slides right in to the front bay. I get 15 min flight time with throttle management.

arvada

wind walker

I'm new to RC and I've just ordered a Electristar and really surprised about the ESC problems. What did HOBBICO say was the problem when you returned the part/plane?
I also have Real Flight and find the Electristar is a little slugish on the sim and hope it's not that way in real life.

I'd like to go with Lipo's for weight but the risk of fire and explosion has me a little concerned. I plan on going with the 3000 NiMH and see how it goes before switching if at all.
What is the expected flight time for the NiNH?
What other problems should I look out for?

Ron

spacestout

Hobbico was good in support of the ESC problem. We communicated via email first, then on the phone. I'm an electrical engineer, so I was pretty thorough in trouble shooting it. They had me mail back the ESC and wanted the motor as well. I tested the motor with an 11.1 LiPo (I can't find any info on the motor, but I found one under another brand which may be the same thing and it said it would work on 10-20 volts) and standard ESC and it worked so I just sent in the ESC. They apparently couldn't find a problem, but like I said, the new replacement worked.

I know there are a lot of worries about the LiPos. I spent the extra money to have them for the performance. I dropped one, sparked another, and even drained one completely while cycling. All no nos (I'm not that dumb. We had a family emergency). I charge them outside in an ammo can. They both came back to life and balance well and charge fully and give me the 4000mAh, so I started to fly with them and they perform perfectly. Not to say their life isn't shortened. We'll see. If you go NiMH you may want a charger which can also do LiPos (like my Multiplex). Then if you upgrade you won't have to buy a separate charger. As far as flight time, I get 15 minutes when easy on the throttle with the 4200mAh Lipos. They are barely warm when landing. The motor isn't drawing much current relative to the 63A the batteries can source. I'd read the reviews on the plane to get the NiMH flight time. Greg on this forum writes a good article, and googling (or use a fun search engine, searchurchin.com) on electristar and review will give you other writeups.

The plane is great. Absolutely the best trainer you could want. I got tired of crashing a funny park and Hobbico Cessna 182 trying to learn how to fly. There is almost always a breeze or more. I had a club mentor take up my Electristar on it's maiden. It was windy but the plane flew stabily. I've been flying solo ever since. I love how it flares and greases the landings, and when I err and bounce, it takes it.

My only complaints center around wanting more information on the motor specs (to know how much current it can handle) and wishing you could program cutoff levels into the ESC. I believe it lets the batteries drop to 67% which is under the 3V per cell best for LiPos. But, even on the phone with support they say that information is not available. I guess it's a trainer plane and they figure we don't want to do any of our own setting up. I'm flying mine more as a sport plane now. Nice loops, rolls, barrel rolls, stall turns, upside down flight. I can't hold knife edge yet. I want more thrust for high angle slow flight (as much of a Harrier as possible).

Remember the flight simulator can have a dual rate switch. Although the 4EXA radio with the plane doesn't have such a switch, if you're on low rate on the sim it will perform more sluggishly.

spacestout

Greg, do you know who makes the C-42 motor in the Electristar? I'm after specs (max current, internal impedance, etc) to make sure I don't draw too much current in trying other props. I'd also love information on programming the SS45D (beyond the engine brake described in the manual) to set the cutoff to 3V/cell instead of the 67%.

And to all you Electristar flyers out there (I think it should be called the Sherpa after the huge full scale homebuilt bush plane), remember that even if you turn off the receiver battery switch and xmitter switch, the ESC stays armed until the motor batteries are unplugged. Turning the radios back on without having unplugged the motor batteries first will find you with a prop ready to turn if the throttle is advanced. I did this unwittingly (or half wittingly). Which makes me glad I always stay clear of the prop.

cwharper

Having flown the Electristar within the G3.5 simulator and then moving to the real thing here are the differences I've noted. For one, the real thing flies very well and can maintain altitude or climb just a little with half throttle. I noticed the simulator takes just a little over half throttle to produce the same results. So this means less throttle is needed for the real thing. At first it seemed the real plane was more nimble than the simulator. I fixed this by lowering the exponentials on the elevator and aileron to about 75% each and now it turns very smoothly like in the simulator. The biggest thing by far that I wasn't prepared for on the first flight was that deep down sinking gut feeling seeing my new plane fly off in the distance but once it was up in the air and I was making turns (with an experienced friend standby beside me of course) I began to get comfortable. I don't think any simulator can prepare you for that feeling.

spacestout

The manual is kind of vague in some areas, as is the Futaba manual. I'm glad there were experienced modelers around when setting up my plane. Like exponentials. I set mine controls to -50%, instead of 50% as I would have on other radios. The minus makes the controls less sensitive. Otherwise, a positive setting speeds them up. So bud, hope you went in the negative direction if you wanted to tame the controls. I also moved the aileron control horn position in one notch to get closer to the high rate recommended setting. In the outer position, as it came set, I saw 25 mm of movement, whereas the specified setting was, I believe, 10mm. I think I'm ready to move them back out to increase roll rates.

I got a trainer cord and let my 8 year old fly it once I got it up in the air. At first, I'd give him commands. We even had to trim his radio to get level flight. He soon got the hang of it and flew all afternoon without me having to tell him what to do. His simulator time came in very handy.

I guess I broke my warranty because I'm flying with a 12x6 APC prop. I couldn't find any electrifly 11x7 props around locally. With the latter I'd pull 28 amps. With the APC 24. I may try a 13x6. Anyway, the plane climbs much steeper with the APC. I'm doing nice stall turns.

I can't find any information of what motor I have. Funny, my flight simulator says it's an Electrifly Rimfire 42-50-600. Looking at pictures of the latter, that makes sense. The 600 is the Kv or RPM per volt. Anyway, I can pull a lot more current than I am and can have much bigger props and not exceed motor, ESC or battery ratings.

cwharper

Yes, I meant negative 75%. Actually now since I've flown it more I've returned the exponentials back to middle zero. That was an interesting find on the brushless motor as I've been researching motors, batteries, and prop combinations for my next project if I ever decide to get another plane. If indeed that electristar motor is the rimfire you've mentioned it gives me a reference point from which to start.

One other thing I noticed and others who have been flying longer than I may have run into this problem. There is a sod farm about a mile from a free standing cell phone tower which looks like it has three providers on it. When I'm at this field my range check is reduced to about 25 steps before funny things start to happen like jerky servo movement and random throttle accelerations. In other remote areas I get 50 steps. (range check with transmitter antennae collapsed) I guess the close proximity of the cell phone signals are somehow reducing the effectiveness of my transmitter signals although it shouldn't happen at all.

spacestout

I'm a former cell phone engineer. Spektrum radios and other digital 2.4GHz radios are very similar to what's being employed by the cell phones. Amateurs may also be using this band. Of course, our electristar radios are 72MHz FM radios. They shouldn't be bothered by cell phone frequencies. But, it is a noisy world from an electron's point of view. The only time I've had jitter is when I turned the transmitter off first. The receiver is left to make sense out of the signals coming in from the antenna or being generated within. You can give heed to how you route things in your plane. I think the manual talks about this. Keep the antenna away from everything else. I take it right out of the receiver and tape it to the bay wall, continuing the tape until the antenna is in the white tube. I've folded up the servo and battery wires and bundled them with a zip tie. This also keeps them away from the wing servo arms. I traded places between receiver battery (and changed it to a 1500mAh NiMH battery. The 600mAh unit only gave me about 3 flights. The same capacity nicad in the xmitter also has to go) and receiver so the receiver isn't too close to the ESC. It sits half way between the rear servos and ESC, your noisier components. So, coming from the front, I have the ESC, then receiver battery, then receiver. It's also convenient to get a mounting kit for the battery charging stud and mount it to the side of the fuselage. Then, you can check voltage from outside and charge from outside, without having to take the wing off.

I hope you stay with the hobby. I'm just eating it up. It is right up my alley as an electrical engineer. I have more fun setting planes up and tweaking them almost than flying. I'm a private pilot also. It sure was a challenge to learn to fly with the plane coming at me. I work for a company where we do the communication links for the unmanned air vehicles. Huge R/C planes using satellites to drive them around the world. I have so many ideas I want to work on so I decided I'd better learn to fly first.

It sure is good to know how long your plane will fly and keep track of time. My boy was flying in trainer mode and ran out the battery. I got to do a dead stick landing. I ended up in the netting along the runway. The netting was cut but the electristar was unscratched. What a great trainer.

itchycods

This is good reading. I am learning about my Electristar as well. I have 2 2C 3200 lipos that seem to charge and balance fine, but in the plane, the ESC shuts off after about 3-4 minutes. Anybody have any ideas?

ro347

My Feedback: (13)

What are you guys using with the new props(washer)? I am new to all of this with the electristar being my first. I tried swapping out the stcok prop with an APC 12x7. The base of the APC prop is NOT as thick as the stock prop so I am not able to get the prop to sit firmly. What are you guys using to fill the space? I know its a super NOOB question, but any help would be great.