Hand Starting
#1
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From: Terrace,
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My recent conversion , a 40cc. efco weed trimmer runs like a top. Idles great and turns a 20x8 at 6600 rpm's with stock muffler that is VERY restricted. I should get a good 7000 when done. Anyway, for the first time I tried to hand start it.[>:] I now have a sore shoulder.
ALL my other conversions literally start with one flip of the prop. I did have to make my own bracket for the coil soooooo..... I was thinking that I might of changed something. The problem is though, there is no spark at all unless I use a starter. I guess I cannot flip it fast enough even though the plug has been removed.
My question, is there another coil I can use, or what would make one engine able to hand start but not the other if they all use coils. The starter I had used was not mine.
Thanks Peter
ALL my other conversions literally start with one flip of the prop. I did have to make my own bracket for the coil soooooo..... I was thinking that I might of changed something. The problem is though, there is no spark at all unless I use a starter. I guess I cannot flip it fast enough even though the plug has been removed.My question, is there another coil I can use, or what would make one engine able to hand start but not the other if they all use coils. The starter I had used was not mine.
Thanks Peter
#3
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Thanks bn120
I'll get a new coil and try that. By the way I tached the motor without the muffler and got 7000 rpms with the 20x8 prop. I guess the muffler was not as restrictive as I first thought[:-]
Thanks Peter
I'll get a new coil and try that. By the way I tached the motor without the muffler and got 7000 rpms with the 20x8 prop. I guess the muffler was not as restrictive as I first thought[:-]
Thanks Peter
#4
Peter,
Do you start Homlite 25cc conversions by hand? If so, what is the trick?
I have a great running Homey that will throw my shoulder out if I try to hand start it, but kicks right off with an electric starter.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Tom
Do you start Homlite 25cc conversions by hand? If so, what is the trick?
I have a great running Homey that will throw my shoulder out if I try to hand start it, but kicks right off with an electric starter.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Tom
#5

My Feedback: (6)
It's all in your setup...
If you have the original flywheel "magneto" ignition, you can pretty well count on needing to use a starter to wing it over fast enough for a reliable spark and an easy start. If you have converted it to electronic ignition, it should easily hand start once you have the engine all properly set up, and have run it a bit to know what it wants as a starting procedure. When you have the needles and idle speed all properly set, it should take just a touch of throttle and full choke initially. Flip it until it runs a few revolutions then stops. Then open the choke, and the next flip should have it running. This is assuming you have a primer bulb setup on your carb, and or haven't run it all the way out of fuel. If you don't have a primer bulb to get the fuel to the carb, and have run it out of fuel, it will take a lot of flips and/or a blip from an electric starter to get the fuel pumped up to the carb.
Hope this helps....
AV8TOR
If you have the original flywheel "magneto" ignition, you can pretty well count on needing to use a starter to wing it over fast enough for a reliable spark and an easy start. If you have converted it to electronic ignition, it should easily hand start once you have the engine all properly set up, and have run it a bit to know what it wants as a starting procedure. When you have the needles and idle speed all properly set, it should take just a touch of throttle and full choke initially. Flip it until it runs a few revolutions then stops. Then open the choke, and the next flip should have it running. This is assuming you have a primer bulb setup on your carb, and or haven't run it all the way out of fuel. If you don't have a primer bulb to get the fuel to the carb, and have run it out of fuel, it will take a lot of flips and/or a blip from an electric starter to get the fuel pumped up to the carb.
Hope this helps....
AV8TOR
#6
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Hi Tom,
Well I did a lot of fooling around and experimenting with this over the last few days. I did not know that all coils are not created equal
I was at our local small motor shop and was surprised to see that some coils actual fire at as little as 40 rpms. You can turn that sucker as slow as you want and still get a spark. The coil I had sparked at some 800 rpms. No wonder I could not hand start it. I got a used coil for it but have not given it a try yet.
I guess it is all in the amount of copper they wind in those coils. They might save a few pennies you know
. Well I guess if you make several million of them.
Anyway my other conversions if I prime them right, fire up first flip. I stick my thumb over the carb, rock the prop back and forth at TDC. till my thumb gets wet and give her a flip. This even works well for my Stihl 54cc. Oh, and they have the original flywheel.
Well I did a lot of fooling around and experimenting with this over the last few days. I did not know that all coils are not created equal
I was at our local small motor shop and was surprised to see that some coils actual fire at as little as 40 rpms. You can turn that sucker as slow as you want and still get a spark. The coil I had sparked at some 800 rpms. No wonder I could not hand start it. I got a used coil for it but have not given it a try yet.I guess it is all in the amount of copper they wind in those coils. They might save a few pennies you know
. Well I guess if you make several million of them.Anyway my other conversions if I prime them right, fire up first flip. I stick my thumb over the carb, rock the prop back and forth at TDC. till my thumb gets wet and give her a flip. This even works well for my Stihl 54cc. Oh, and they have the original flywheel.
#7
Hey Peter G.
I have a small engine repair shop,thats my 'work on side'
I run in to something like you described every now and then.First thing I would do is make sure your magnets are clean and rust free.Then you got to make sure your coil is rust-free.Then you got to set the gap.For this I normally use a postcard. You got to get the mounting screws lose ,then put a postcard between coil and magneto.Tie your screws up and remove a postcard.
If that won't help ,sometimes coil is shortened inside (vibration causes it).
If I was you I'd buy a new coil or try to find a used one in good shape.
GREETS.
Mitty
I have a small engine repair shop,thats my 'work on side'

I run in to something like you described every now and then.First thing I would do is make sure your magnets are clean and rust free.Then you got to make sure your coil is rust-free.Then you got to set the gap.For this I normally use a postcard. You got to get the mounting screws lose ,then put a postcard between coil and magneto.Tie your screws up and remove a postcard.
If that won't help ,sometimes coil is shortened inside (vibration causes it).
If I was you I'd buy a new coil or try to find a used one in good shape.
GREETS.
Mitty
#8
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Thanks Mitty;
It is a brand new coil, engine had never been run., no rust. Since the last post I tried a different coil with no change. I will look around for another coil. The gap has been set as well. Like I previously stated, I was shown quite a variance from some coils to others. I'll keep trying. Thanks again.
Peter
It is a brand new coil, engine had never been run., no rust. Since the last post I tried a different coil with no change. I will look around for another coil. The gap has been set as well. Like I previously stated, I was shown quite a variance from some coils to others. I'll keep trying. Thanks again.
Peter



