What is this engine????
#1
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From: Grinnell ,
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I have a old weed eater here that was given to me. I am not sure if it is a good engine for conversion or not. Can anyone give me any details on it? It is a John Deere 240, the model# on it is MO240GA. It has a 1.269 bore and a 1.06 stroke. It has ball bearing on both ends of the crank, and I think, needles on both ends of the rod. It has a ZAMA K982B carb. What do you think convert or Junk?????????????
Thanks
Ron
Thanks
Ron
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Ron:
By the dimensions you gave, it's a 22cc engine.
from the looks of it, it might be ok if you can knock three or four pounds of excess metal.
Probably a lot better to buy a used G-23.
Bill.
By the dimensions you gave, it's a 22cc engine.
from the looks of it, it might be ok if you can knock three or four pounds of excess metal.
Probably a lot better to buy a used G-23.
Bill.
#5

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It sure does look like an Echo. Should be a good conversion engine. The Echo/Kioritz are the better quality engines, and are generally light, powerful, and well built. I would convert it myself. It would work fine in an airplane with around 1000 square inches of wing area, weighing from 9 to 11 lbs., or perhaps a touch heavier if it is a floater type plane like a Cub or something instead of an aerobat. You can use it with the original magneto, or convert to electronic ignition for less weight and easier starting.
Hey, you already own it right? A couple of hours work cutting the excess metal off, gut the muffler, buy or make a prop hub, throw on a 15 x 8 APC prop, and see how it does! If you like it, then try a bigger carb as well.
Have fun,
AV8TOR
Hey, you already own it right? A couple of hours work cutting the excess metal off, gut the muffler, buy or make a prop hub, throw on a 15 x 8 APC prop, and see how it does! If you like it, then try a bigger carb as well.
Have fun,
AV8TOR
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From: Grinnell ,
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I read through a lot of old post today and I too think it looks like an Echo. I cleaned it up a little more today and found it has real rough bearings but I am going to test it anyway. If it seems to have potential I will get new bearings, cut off alot of weight, set it up for a C@H. and look for a better carb. According to my calculation it is a 21.6 CC. Does that sound correct? Would it be refered to as a 22? I am enjoying this I haven't played with a conversion in several years. My last one was a 30 cc Homelite that is flying a way over weight Ultrastick. Well sort-of anyway.
Thanks for all the replies, I prisiate it.
Ron
Thanks for all the replies, I prisiate it.
Ron
#8
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most definetly an echo 21.2cc... bore is 32.2mm, stroke is 26mm pretty close to what you measured. this is the same engine that FPE converts and sells as their 1.3 for around $400. echo says it should run about 10,000rpm WOT so it likes to spin. with stock 8.5mm carb and gutted muffler it should do around 8,000 with a 16x6 or 15x8. haven't tried it yet but a smaller prop might even be better.
dave
dave
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From: Grinnell ,
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I ran this engine today. The only prop I had in this size was a 16X8 APC that had one tip broke off. I checked the prop and found I could cut it a make a 15X8 so that is what I did. With the stock carb and muffler and really noisy bearings it turned 7300. With new bearings and a better carb and some tuning, I think it will be OK. Where is a good place to get parts for this thing? I checked with a local lawn mower repair shop today, he was no help at all, He would not try to look up anything for me. When I gave him the John Deere model # he looked at me like I was from other space, claimed that # didn't mean anything to him. So anyway I need a ring, bearings, seals and gaskets. How do I find out what carb the FPE 1.3 uses?
Thanks
ROn
Thanks
ROn
#10

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What I would do is see if the bearings and seals have any number(s) on them, and if so, try a good bearing sales outlet. Bearings are often not as special as people think, and designers tend to use off the shelf; readily available parts. You could very well find the bearings and seals at a far cheaper price than you would pay either through John Deere or Echo/Kioritz. Echo does have a website with parts blowups for reference if needed.
Here is the e-mail address for Frank Bowman: [email protected] He can make you rings better than original, and cheaper. Be sure you need rings though, as it takes a good while to break these things in when they are new or you re-ring them.
For gaskets, if you can't save the one between the case halves, make one out of glossy paper of the same thickness. Leave out the cylinder base gasket, and seal that joint with "Yamabond" sealer from the Yamaha motorcycle shop. Works great, and it will raise your compression just a little.
A carb with a 9 or 10 mm venturi should work fine. Make sure it has two adjusting needles. A lot of the newer carbs have either one, or none! Walbro has a good website with numbers and venturi sizes.
I gut the exhaust system, and use two outlet tubes of 7/16" to 1/2" inside diameter. (I usually use K & S brass tubing, and carefully braze them into the muffler.)
7300 rpm's on a 16 x 8 APC cut down to 15 x 8, with ratty bearings, stock muffler, carb, etc. isn't too shabby. My tricked out Echo only does around 8200 on a 16 x 8 APC, though that is at a pretty high density altitude. (4200' and 80-90 degrees)
Hope this helps,
Good luck,
AV8TOR
Here is the e-mail address for Frank Bowman: [email protected] He can make you rings better than original, and cheaper. Be sure you need rings though, as it takes a good while to break these things in when they are new or you re-ring them.
For gaskets, if you can't save the one between the case halves, make one out of glossy paper of the same thickness. Leave out the cylinder base gasket, and seal that joint with "Yamabond" sealer from the Yamaha motorcycle shop. Works great, and it will raise your compression just a little.
A carb with a 9 or 10 mm venturi should work fine. Make sure it has two adjusting needles. A lot of the newer carbs have either one, or none! Walbro has a good website with numbers and venturi sizes.
I gut the exhaust system, and use two outlet tubes of 7/16" to 1/2" inside diameter. (I usually use K & S brass tubing, and carefully braze them into the muffler.)
7300 rpm's on a 16 x 8 APC cut down to 15 x 8, with ratty bearings, stock muffler, carb, etc. isn't too shabby. My tricked out Echo only does around 8200 on a 16 x 8 APC, though that is at a pretty high density altitude. (4200' and 80-90 degrees)
Hope this helps,
Good luck,
AV8TOR
#11
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bearings for 21cc Echo are NTN 6201 and the seals ISCD 12 22 45 Got one sitting on the desk with 2 piston rings. Explored the muffler, lost the screen and opened up the restriction baffle under the 3 screw. This muffler has more open area (1/4 holes) in the upper baffle(/ bolt compression inset) than the area of the head exhaust port. But the 'diverter weighs 1/2 as much
First one was trashed internally so it became a 'what if cut-up'
John Deere 240 ....Hummm Add to lookout list!
First one was trashed internally so it became a 'what if cut-up'
John Deere 240 ....Hummm Add to lookout list!
#12
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if you want to buy OEM gaskets then find an echo dealer and get parts for model "SRM-2100"
and as long as you're doing a rebuild you can cut the rear crank stub off right at the bearing and plug the oil seal hole in the case. this will save some weight and reduce friction. the bottom of those aluminium asthma inhaler cartridges are a perfect 22mm. just cut a 1/4" off, smear it with locktite and drive it into place with a large socket. some of the big electrolytic caps also have a case of the right size.
dave
and as long as you're doing a rebuild you can cut the rear crank stub off right at the bearing and plug the oil seal hole in the case. this will save some weight and reduce friction. the bottom of those aluminium asthma inhaler cartridges are a perfect 22mm. just cut a 1/4" off, smear it with locktite and drive it into place with a large socket. some of the big electrolytic caps also have a case of the right size.
dave
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From: Grinnell ,
IA
Hey all you guys, thanks for all the help, It is really appreciated. I will get my bearings and seal this week and see what happens next. Dave, the inhaler bottom that I had around here is 25.7mm and is plastic. Oh well, I am going to make a plug.
Ron
Ron




