Convert Ryobi....DUH!

Heck with the flywheel, and heck with a $120 CH ignition.

CH sells just the hub which has the magnet in it. $19
Using the JEH TIM4, hall sensor, and coil. $47.50
Wackerengines.com conversion kit and mount. $55

Total $121.50 (plus shipping ~ $30 total) $151.50 for a fully converted, electronic ignition Ryobi gasser.

Anyone see anything I missed?

I think that for just the few bucks more, I would have used the complete CH ignition. I think it has a hotter spark, and is more reliable and trouble free. Just my opinion....

AV8TOR

Yes, for the slightly larger front-end investment you get a system that is infinetely more reliable, performs better, and won't give you headaches. Been there, done that. You will end up spending the extra money within months buying new coils because you keep burning them up. Most everyone on this forum(except RC1IGN and tkg) would love an inexpensive alternative, including me, but I haven't found one yet. The CH and RC Ignition systems I do have have never given me trouble and that is worth some $ in my book.

Try going back and searching for TIM-6 on this forum. There is a lot of info if you're willing to look for it. Hope this helps.

Doug

and the $120 you quote for the CH includes the synchro-spark auto 'tard module that you won't be getting with the TIM circuit.

if you're up to building the ignition yourself then ask CH for their tested circuit board and coil and do the rest on your own. should only be around $60. much better than saving $12 and doing the TIM-6.



dave

I bought a synchrospark from CH for my Ryobi. You couldn't ask for an easier starting enigne.

I'd just choke it about 3 or 4 turns and then turn on the ignition. 2-3 flips and it would kick off and tick over like a swiss watch.

Yes, it costs a few bucks, but IMO it's well worth it. My ryobi idled so slow, and transition was perfect. Max power was just as good as the magneto. Can't remember the exact numbers, but I tried a 16-10, 18-6 and an 18-8. All of those props made good thrust.

I put a Walbro WT 438 carb on mine. It's a bolt on part, and it's the same size as the intake hole in the backplate. The stock carb is a bit smaller than the intake hole.

I have a question is forty dollars extra for a large bore carb worth a few hundred extra rpms. I know the philosophy of converting your own engine is to say, you did it and it saves a few dollars if you add on a carb, Ch ignition, aluminum pitts muffler and the rest of convertion parts and you're up to the price of a G26. I know you can save a few bucks using CH's build your own ignition module kit.

I have a perfectly good large two stroke commercially made engine. I am experimenting with gas, because I am curious about all the hubub you gassers are so sold on. Jag engines says, to leave the carb as is, because the rpm gains on a new 31cc Ryobi are not worth the extra money for the large carb. I am going to convert one soon within the next few weeks, I will have the fly wheel turned down and order a conversion kit from one of the online machine shops.

Good luck to you, happy smoke trails,

Will

My first conversion was a Ryobi 31cc with the long shaft. All stock with the exception of a gutted muffler. It turned a 16 6-10 Zinger prop between 7200--7500 rpm. It flew my Ryan's Rebel at 14 lbs very good. It needed to be started with either a pull rope or an electric starter. I later built a Tim 6 ignition and am presently flying it with it. Now it hand starts very easily, and that was my reason for using the Tim 6, other than just seeing if I could make it work, and it works very well for me.

I have read quite a few responses in other threads where people have problems with tim circuitry modules because they keep burning out the coils. How dependable is the tim kit built modules and is there a better coil that can be used with a tim module? Thanks, I really do appreciate the responses from you all!!! Please keep the information coming!!

Have fun, buy a new weed whacker and convert it for proper use!!

Will

Check this.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=35835

Since I built my Tim 6 using the Modelelectric coil with 5 1800 mah nimh cells feeding it, I have flown it somewhere close to 40 times , probably averaging 15 minutes a flight and have had zero problems with it. I built and had mine flying before I came across these threads saying that others have had problems with the coils. I will keep flying mine as much as I can, and as often as I can, just to see how it lasts. I built a couple more and have bench ran them with various conversions, but have yet to fly them. I do have several CH ignitions and a homebrew CD ignition that I also play with on larger engines.

Charlie W5RA

Thanks, but it's not just a "few bucks."

CH is $120 + shipping just for the ignition. My ignition will be $66.50 + shipping.
My entire conversion will be close to just the cost of the CH ignition. Cost is the reason for using a Ryobi right?

Tom

Hmmm...a quote from the CH web site
I will inquire of them how much a build it myself kit with the Syncro Spark would be. I'm very comfortable with electronics since that is my trade.

I'll reconsider the issue of longevity and review the forums about the TIMs systems. But from what I read here, everyone is saying the TIM6 is an issue. What about the TIM4 or TIM3?
JEH claims that TIM6s have run for years on the 6 volt system.
He says that the system will run on 4.8 - 7 V. Are our fourum reporters running at 4.8 or 6 or 7.2 V with their NiCads? The difference will have probably have an effect on the coil. Since the Coil, according to JEH is rated at 3 to 6 volts, I have to wonder if the current capability of the TIM6 isn't too high at 6 volts.

Thanks everyone, I'll sure put this info to good use.

BTW, I don't plan to just put it in a plane and go fly. I'll run her for a good many hours on the post in the yard first.

Tom

BTW,
Is the Tom Perry Ignition that Eagle Flyer has on his "for sale" item relyable?

I notice that it has a nylon Magnet Hub. I'd thought a lot about doing that myself.

Tom

The ignition is a C&H. The "nylon" part is on the engine and holds the hall switch unit.

First, let me give Peter at http://www.wackerengines.com some huge praise!
I ordered my parts from him via email and paid via paypal on Thursday. I paid a buck ( $1) extra for priority shipping and had the parts on Monday!!!
Parts ordered: Motor mount, and short shaft conversion kit.
He informed me that he had to make the parts, but that he would ship them ASAP.
AWESOME JOB!
I wish EVERYONE could provide such outstanding service! Heck, I wish 2% of the people would!



I installed everything and had to make one mod to the motor mount as the hole for carb access did not match up to my engine.

Running with the stock flywheel and an APC 18x6 prop, I'm getting just about 7,000 RPM. It tried to tip my Black & Decker Workmate right over into the ground! Perhaps I just need flaps and ailerons on the Workmate?

It's a bit tricky to start since a hand flip isn't fast enough for the magneto, and my hobbico starter is too weak. I'm using a piece of cargo strap (carefully!) wrapped around the adapter shaft.

I've also found that the primer bulb has to be in place. Is there a way around this? I tried a check valve that would allow the fuel to flow from the carb to the tank. It seems that the bulb actually stops the flow during normal ops. Do I need to plug the line?

Anyhow, the next stage is the ignition. I snail-mailed my order to JEH...maybe we could talk him into using paypal...the day before the order from wackerengines.com

I can't wait for stage 2!


More later,
Tom

Yes, you need to plug the primer bulb line at the carb if you don't plan to use it.
If you still have all the string trimmer extra parts, and you like to tinker, you can make a recoil starter that costs very little and is safer than hand propping or using an electric starter

Interesting, but I think I'd just chuck the shaft in my Dewalt Cordless.

Yes a cordless drill would be ideal, if it has enough power. My 12V Black and Decker doesn't have the guts.
If I want to start the motor at home I usually use a corded 3/8" drill, which works fine.

Sportflier....I think your device for staring engines is very clever. I think the people who are handy with the hands could make one easy. I may eve try!!!!! Smooth Flying...Capt,n

I tried it with my Dewalt 12V.

Not very good results. I had wondered if it would spin the bolt out of the threads...Yep, it does!
I can got 2-3 tries in before that though. It fired once, but subsequent attempts told me to quit and go back to the strap.

First pull on the strap and Varrroommm!
This problem should disappear once I get rid of that nasty magneto though.

Speaking of that...CH Ignitions web sites is down?

I need to order a hub with a magnet from them. Anyone have their number or email addy?

Thanks,
Tom

I've seen a few reed valves here and there including the forums, and the 2 weedies I currently have stripped in my shed.

The engine I'm working with is from a Lawn Boy brand weedie and has an odd reed setup (see pic).
The reed is mounted on an arc and is rather short. The lash stop is also oddly shaped.
I'm getting almost 7500 RPM, with the carb tweaked, on an 18x6 prop, single ring, and a stock flywheel.

Has anyone else seen a reed like this? How do they compare (performance) to the normal flat set up?

Also, my Ryan Brand back plate is slightly smaller in diameter. The screws holes line up and I'm sure the gasket will seal if I use it in the Lawn Boy Block, but the opposite would not work because the Lawn Boy piece is too large.

Unfortunately, I didn't get the pics very clear but I think you'll all see what I mean.