Hello:
A friend sent me his Brand New ryobi converted by hiimself using commecrcial parts for that. He went all the way and used a C&H ignition also.
He did not make the engine to run in the trimmer before, so he took it completely new and directly converted to R/C. One in the set stands he could´n started it,and there comes all the problems.

He sent this to me to help with the carburation or determine wich was the real propblem.
I check the ignition point and it was fine, also the compression and everything in the engine seems to be well.
After some attemps I discover that the perfect running was obtained with the high needle opened 3/4 turn and the low needle 1/2 turn ( in my ryobis both are around 1,5 turns...

The engine will start when choked but little by little start to diminish rpms until totally stops and from then on is very difficult to start them again like the first time. If I take a recess of 10 -15 minutes it ill start esasily again

I dissambled the cylinder and found that the piston is single ringed and the cylinder has the nasty slots in the upper chambers...( california complaint rules...!!) I guess those engines had doubled ringed pistons.

Well, the story goes like this: Once the engine start a little flooded I started to close the needles obtaining great minumums and max rpms, but after a minute or so at full throttle the engine starts to quit until die...and there fore is very hard to start it again.


What could be the problem??
None of my four ryobis work like that.-
The degree calculation for the ignition is right, I guess it has something to deal with fuel feeding, so I told him to try a new carburetor from other engine, better a larger one.


Any inputs or stories related to this problem will be appreciatted.

Rodolfo.

Could it be that the engine simply does not have enough time on it?
This has all the indications of a ringed engine that isn't yet broken in.

Joe

Rodolfo:
What CCs is it? What prop are you using? Does the engine still have compression as soon as it quits?

Sounds like no oil in the gas...

lol. thats what I thought but dare not say RCIGN1

Oil!!!!!

Nobody told me I have to put oil to the gas!!!


Just kidding, Come on guys!!!! I ´ve been running Ryobis for years now, also my 6 years old 35 cc US engine with the regular 32:1 gas mix. Of course i use oi in the mix.

The engine was sent from a friend who also is familiar with gas engines and I ´m sure he also use oil too. ( he got the engine brand new in a trimmer) But not to use oil would be like go to the field and don´t know you have to charge the transmiter as well as the receiver, don´t you think???

In fact afeter varuious attemps to carburate it I dissambled the carb and found some little white dirt and fibers in one of the holes, I guess this moved forward and bacwards when going from iddle to high or vice versa and from time to time make the engine to quit due to insuficient fuel input.
I sent the engine back to my friend and ask him to test it now that the carb is clean, but he hasn´t answer yet.

That´s the only answer I can figure out, because the engine run well for about a minute in high rpms and then started to slow down until quits. After that it won´t start even when extremely choked and near to melt the starter.

Then I tought it could be loosing some compression when get too much heat, because when you let it cool down a bit, after that will start considerable easy again.
When dissambled the cylinder I saw a big brown stain coming from the top of the cylinder down to past the ring, at the position of one of the ports opossite to the exhaust port, indicating that the ring has some kind of compression lost in that point. If it is normal, then I blamed on the fuel port slot ( that one created to acomplish california anti modelers but environmental favored regulation)

resuming, teh causes for the malfunction would be:
1.- carburetor problem ( some dirt, needles regulation, etc). don´t think so.
2.- Compression problem. ( may be, the stain in the cylinder at the fuel port, no easy start when hot)
3.- Need more break in...also may be.

Please vote, let me know what you think.

I got all my ryobis from semi used trimmers, so they where very well broked in and run great, A brand new homelite I got recently start by hand and run like a dream, even with no break in at all...i don´t know what to think now.

thanks for the interest.
Tato

Brown stain shouldn't be there. Ring is not touching the cyl. to cause that. Could be stuck ring, piece broken out of the ring, etc. Seeing that it's on the opposite side of the cyl. you would have to pull the cyl. to find out.

I'de just junk it and buy a Zenoah...

I am amazed at all the money wasted on conversions and all the threads dedicated to people complaining about weedie conversions that run bad or not at all after they try themselves....

Not trying to be sarcastic (I know, I sound pretty bad) but I've worked on a lot of engines. I have yet to see any of these engines even come close to running like a purpose built R/C engine.

IMO its not worth the few bucks you save - how much time have you already wasted on it? How many planes have you lost due to dead sticks?


DP

Your not hearing about the ones that are running right. I have an old Homelite 60cc on a Christen Eagle that turns as fast as a G62. besides most of these commercial engines are converted industrial engines

Hey:

First, answering the last two post:

"Flypaper 2" is right, I first bought a brand new US engine and it ran well ( perfect) of course, but I think most of us like the conversion engines not because the bucks we could save, that are quite few at all if we consider a electronic ignition in the menu. We like the conversion because we enjoy it as a challenge.

Is the same between an ARF or kit plane. happens the same with the people who would like to buy a cheap ARF and only see the guys who talk about how difficult is to built a kit or a scartch built. Well, the guys who built from a kit or scratch do it because they love that activity and for sure they learn a lot more about construction, materials resistances and designing.

For example, Many in this forum want to built their own ignition, and that is because is a personal challenge, not to save money. We, the converters, will know and understand the working of the gas engines in our models much better than those who just buy one for R/c and bolted in the plane.

I want to state that one or another are different options to enjoy the hobby, and none is better than the other. Some guys do not have the time, the hability or simply do not enjoy converting a engine, while others would like it as a paralell hobby to modeling.

The thing is that in fact we save some money with the conversion and in some cases the converted engine will run as well as a manufactured R/c one, but from time to time you find a engine too weared or abused, too old, etc. and then we post something here to get some help. I´m sure that for each thread asking something about a converted engine there are dozens of happy modelers with their conversions running just fine, that is why there are every day more and more guys manufacturing pieces for conversion, let say jag engines, C&H ignitions, weed wacker, bennet mufflers, and so many others.

I would like that everyone here support one to others, attitudes like the desertpig do not acomplish the objetives of the forum. I respect his option about the way of doing R/C, and appreciate his rought advice, but some of us enjoy bolting , timing and reassambling engines as well as flying and post here looking for some support instead of discouraging.
_____________________

back to our matters:

I know this brown stain means that the ring does not seals correctly that portion of the cylinder , I think ( trying to remember) it is just were the ring meets the positioning pin, and since it is the original one of course have a lot of leak. May be I should inspect my own engines, but they do not have that problem and run great.

Until now my friend hasn´t told me if he did some more break in to the engine or if he tested a different carb. let´s wait to see what happens.

Tato Lazo.

Quote

"I would like that everyone here support one to others, attitudes like the desertpig do not acomplish the objetives of the forum. I respect his option about the way of doing R/C, and appreciate his rought advice, but some of us enjoy bolting , timing and reassambling engines as well as flying and post here looking for some support instead of discouraging. "


Sorry guys!!
Point taken.. not trying to bash! There are those of us who can do what you describe ( I have done more to auto, motorcycle and (full scale) airplane engines than most anyone I know anyway. .. its just I get discouraged when I read about people losing their planes and struggling to make a weedie work when there are good solutions out there that in the end cost less in time and money.

If in fact, you like a little drama and the challenge - I can appreciate that! there certainly is nothing wrong with your thinking.. Personally, I build all my planes - even the few ARFs I have had I strip the covering off , rework the airframes and make them "mine".. but when I go through all that, you can be sure I am putting something up front that wont' dead stick or run crappy. I used to work on weedies.. for the time I had to put in to make them run the way I want them too - it was too much time.

I have seen more weedies run bad than ones that run good. My hat's off to you for doing the work. I have done some in the past, but now I choose to spend more time building / flying than tinkering. Nothing wrong with tinkering either! That's why they call this a hobby!!

Keep 'em flying - no matter what's up front!!

DP

I have to differ with you. I don't post much in the forums but I think you need to look in the gas engine forums and see all the problems AND crashes they are having with thier so called R/C engines.
I'am some what new to these conversions and have many built for R/C engines but the ones I build some to be as good as and some times better. I to this point have only built echo, husky and sthil but they are as good as the ones you refer to and maybe better.
I've had more problems with the production engine than my own so figure that out.
I will agree that some try to convert weedeaters that already have a problem and don't know how to solve the problem but they WILL figure it out if they keep trying. The only thing they are fighting is the weight to power problem.
I just built a 13.6 cc echo for a Senior Kadet for the kids and who ever that is checking out great on the bench. Tell me a production engine that I could buy in this size range.
Again I think you need to look at the forums on the production engine and see ALL THE PROBLEMS they are having. Best Ron

I'm rather lost on the "dead stick" thing. My converted weedeaters and chain saw motors are dead reliable. MUCH more so than a glow engine, and I couldn't ask for more. Cheap, fun power. It's great! The ones that have problems, learn from the problems and become better mechanics and craftsmen. Nothing wrong with that either. If you're having fun.... DO IT!

Just my opinion,
AV8TOR

Ok can't resist....

Good pilots know how to fly, even with the engine OFF!

Got that right Keith. Should be part of the training course. Us Engines came from the Frontier chainsaws originally. I have a 300 watt generator with the same engine. When I ran a small engine shop even worked on a log splitter with one on it.Also made the same saw for Pioneer, Danarm, Husqvarna, Jonsereds, and Powertuff which I still have and use. Just a bit of useless info.

Man,


The guy that is bashing conversion nuts is missing the point! Conversion work and making them run right is like scratch building an airplane. It carries a great deal of satisfaction when ya get em going good!

Conversions got me hooked on gasoline engines. I now have several conversions and 2 "airplane" gassers. I can tell you, if my US engines or Quadra give me trouble, I can break them down and work on them based on my conversion experience. I would go so far as to say I would ask a conversion nut to diagnose a problem with any of my gas engines before I asked someone in the gas engine forum!

Conversions are just another part of this great hobby....not for all, but loved by some!

Gotta go......have a ryobi that needs a test run!

Later,
Tom

desertpig,

I'm sorry, but I have to give you a humorous dig, and please take it light heartily. I have read your posts on the UltraStick Lite because I bought one and put a G26 on it. I know you love the G26 from other posts, and I do finally, but.... I have had at least 12 dead sticks with it, fought the way through the learning curve of richening in the air because of the vent hole picking up air pressure, to the engine quitting when brought to idle, to trying to start the d...m thing, to breaking the prop mount stud. I converted a Homelite 45cc for my Christen Eagle and the engine has never died, starts like a champ, and pulls the plane around to my satisfaction.

Now that I have been there, none that with converting the Homelite, I will probably buy a factory built engine in the future. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another G26 either, because it is a great little engine.

Chuck L

I haven't done a conversion, but I have a Ryobi (950 I think) and I wish any of my glow engines ran as well as the Ryobi. I've run it for 5-6 hours straight many times, and it never gave a hiccup. It starts fine if you run it exactly the way the book suggests, hot or cold. I've never cleaned the internal filter screen or set the gaps either. It just keeps on running. I changed the plug once in the past 7 years. When I do think about a conversion, it will be this engine that I use. I'll just buy another one for use around the house.

Tatolazo- I hope you find the answer soon. Hope some of the other members can help you out.

For some of us the building and converting challenge is a major the part of the hobby,the operation a portion of the whole picture,not the entire picture.I like building as much as operation,I see guys get abused all the time for doing something other than drop some dough on the most popular purpose built object,the end result is another batch of RCers ushered right out of the hobby.Good Job!

Don't critisize me for enjoying my hobby.

Back to the engine problem,check the crank case seals,sometimes they leak when they get hot.

Well.
I think I scored a great point here. A lot of converter defending the right to explore differents matters closely relatives to modeling. I realize now that We are a lot around the flying fields.

I respect desertpigs point ofview since averybody loves a different face in this hobby, some loves to build, others to fly, me the conersions and scratch building, some other just like to go to the field and talk.

Would be nice a great fun fly only with conversion. How could we call it??
..."Trimmers and Chainsaws fun fly".....the people will think we are crazy flying a grass trimmer.

A last story: When i told to a fellow at the field that my 80" span model I was flying was powered with a gas trimmer he got very excited and ask me if I could convert for him the engine from a juicemaker his wife has at home.......???
O.K. I replied, only if you an afford 1500 feet of electrical wire to keep the airplane powered from the wall inlet at the clubhouse!!!

The he realize.....

By now my friend who owns the ryobi with troubles did not called me any more, so I asume that or he solved the problem or definitvely gave up. Hope to be the first alternative. But if you want to continue with conversion jokes and stories........

I had very similar problems with my Mac 28cc. I could get it to pop, but it would not stay running. After the initial brief run time, it would not start again. I opened the gap a little on the plug and it solved the problem completely.

May or may not be what you are experiencing.

Good luck.

Rob

take the ring and check the end gap in th cylinder

Ok DesertPig,
I just had to chime in here. We ( club members) reciently purchased 5 WeedEater (poulan) brand 25cc leafblowers from Poulan's discount store at the factory ( 37.50 ea. plus shipping 9.00). Of these motors two have been at the field flying within a week. My Ultimate bipe flys great (no 3D but I am hoping, lol) as does a Robin Hood a fellow club member has. One more is waiting for a plane to be completed but is running very well on the test stand. One...well.....his wife wouldnt let him convert it until he had finished using it this fall on the front yard. Another did burn up...........kind of my fault. We removed the choke arm.....kind of forgot to remove the coil spring to.....sucked it right up and.....well.........sorry about that Mike.[:@] But it had been running very dependably on the test stand for several days. The conversion was very very easy. Another of our members is a retired machinist and he made the prop spacers in his basment. Even without the nicely made space just about any type of spacer would work, you just need to move the prop out, no threads to fiddle with. The treads for the prop are only at the end of the shaft and that is exactly the same length as most "Comercial" RC Gassers.The motor mounts for these engines are rediculasly simple (ok, so I can spell that word without a spellchecker)and the stock muffler works just fine if you bore out the outlet hole. The actual arm for the throttle on the leafblower works fine to hook your servo linkage to as it is swinging in the right direction and after filing it down on one side and drilling a hole it hooked right up. I took it up the other day along with a fellow club member who has a G26 on his bipe. The performace was the same. He was impressed ( ok, he was impressed by the engine, not my flying.......grrr) Ok, My point here? For 46.50 I have a wonderfly flying CG Ultimate bipe (Thanks again Mike for giving that to me, good thing you did before I blew up your engine) with a dependable gas motor. And I would like you to know, it starts easy, runs good, very dependable. Very good throttle range. No deadsticks. I have been flying it every day the last two weeks since we got them. ( took me two hours to convert, three tanks of gas to break it in on the ground and many many test and tune flights, but that was fun) I see your point DesterPig, I am not bashing you. But Just thought I would point out, there are many people who fly gassers and have had a great time with them. This forum is for those few that have had trouble and need help.

Propnut
Good afternoon
What carb are you using in the Weedeater?
Do you have measured the static thrust ?
I have converted a Weedeater from weedwacker , it is 25 cc, run fine in the test stand, free exhaust and stock ignition.Enlarged stock carb to approx 3/8 with a file, do not touch the small holes in the bottom of venturi.I make an access to the only needle the carb have and can adjust it.
Have a delay with servo supplier, for my first big plane.
I am planning make a short curved pipe 5 or 6 inches for exhaust from electrical tubing , I have no problems with noise.
Thanks for your time
Jose
South America

Hi,
Sorry, I dont know the brand of the carb. It is something starting with a Z. I did have it off once to replace it with a bigger Walbro but that didnt work and I put it back on. I am a Gasser (and by relation conversion) newbie. This engine came from a WeedEater (brand) Leafblower. There is no way to adjust the settings on this carb. The knobs are there but they have a shroud around them and are smooth. Cant even get needle nose pliers on them. I hope I helped, not really sure I did though. Sorry.