Broken

Here is my ryobi timeline:
1- Purchace Ryobi trimmer from Harbor Freight.
2- Tear trimer down
3- By conversion parts from Jag engines and wacker aviation.
4- Rebuild engine.

Trouble:
Jag engine mount to long for model-
Solution:
Put it in the parts box (sorry JAG) and ordered a custom plate mount from wacker.

First Test:
Engine ran OK - 18X6-10 @ 6400 RPM- Time to mount it in the plane-

Trouble:
Carb has high end adjustment only, and will not draw fuel when pointed up. [attempt several fuel configs to solve] failed.
Solution:
Scour local shops for walbro carb- [Found Walbro WA-55-1] Difference= external vacume system and larger fuel inlets + larger opening. I tapped the back plate and mounted a pressure fitting.

Engine Test:
Excellent performance now up to 7200 RPM no fuel draw issues at all. New vacume system is excellent..

Trouble:
Fuel line to close to muffler.
Solution: Install simple heat shield (pending)

ZM2000

My Feedback: (1)

Glad to see you progress successfully.

Can you please tell me the make and model number of carburetor that you removed.

Thanks.

-ZM

Broken

I'm not sure of the model#, But it is a Walbro model that's for sure. Looking at the pic you can see the white cap over the high end adjustment screw. The other grey part is just a metal post (no low end screw).

Broken

Here is a pic of the new carb. Notice the larger fuel line and external vacume line ect.. Much better!!

CrazyHerb

My Feedback: (1)

Just an observation...
I'd use a nylon link for your throttle...(just me)...
Avoid metal to metal contact...
I've used ball-links with great success...like here...
http://www.crazyherb.com/BigPink/Picture015.jpg

I know it's probably just on a test stand so..no biggie...but in the plane could be whole different story.

I actually modify my throttle arms and install 1.5 in NOSEWHEEL STEERING ARM on my throttle rods...
You have to cut the metal arm off carefully or use the opposite side (if your arm happens to extend on that side).
(rcs 1.40 mod)
http://www.crazyherb.com/Katana/IMG_0932.jpg

You get much better throttle resolution (precision) with the steering arm...

I would carefully cut all the plastic off that's covering high/low needles....I do that with all of mine...there's still a tension spring to keep them from rotating.
Never know what you might find under that plastic!!

Glad to hear you got it running!

CrazyHerb

Broken

Thanks "CrazyHerb"- I am going to change that metal clevise out for a nylon one. Everything is going together tonight as the final setup. ((BETA Testing is over)) It's time to fly.....

ZM2000

My Feedback: (1)

Broken

Looking at the pic of your Walbro carb, the adjustment on left is the low end needle, the high end should be on the right hand side that appears to be flat topped.

If you break the plastic covering on the needles, you might find both of them.

Since you already dumped it, why not try! !

-ZM

Broken

"Z� The picture is misleading- The plastic cover in question removes quite easily. The white part is a cap that covers the high end adjustment screw and stops it from turning by notching itself onto the grey metal post (right). The black shroud simply holds the white cap in place and prevents inadvertent adjustments from occurring. Apparently this low end restriction has something to do with the EPA- The guys at the parts shop seemed quite familure with the low end limitation. This carb is pre-set so that all adjustments must be done with high end only (??)

I have the carb stripped down and in pieces. I need to take some (naked) pictures of it to really show whats going on. You can see how the low end screw has been replaced by this preset post. (This is the first carb like this I have (ever) seen)...

I ran this setup for a week before giving up on it- Plus I really really like the new carb-

Broken

"Z" the old carb is Walbro WT-617B

ZM2000

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you Broken, its quite interesting.

-ZM

EL TEMUCANO

some pictures for the plane of my friend TATO and his Ryobi "electronic"........

Broken

Beautiful plane..!!! Here is a picture of mine on the balancing stand.

Note: With the previous engine I needed lots nose weight. With the ryobi it balanced "spot on" perfect.

FTIGER43

Hi Broken, just pick up a Ryobi from Harbor Frieght, who had a better conversion kit Wackers or Jag. Did they also have the card or do I need to go to the Hobby shop. I plan on using 4 of these for a big B-17 if they are reliable. Thanks Tom

Broken

Tom,
In all fairness I find both JAG and Wackerengines to have equally good parts. But I do have preferences.

Wacker engines make a great muffler- If you pre-measure they will cut them to a specific tube length etc. (see pic) If you don't pre-measure they will make them a standard length and make the muffler tubes threaded for easy cutting. That is what I did but I had to use JB Weld to seal the threads.

I also did not use the JAG engine mount because I liked the idea of building an engine box and mounting the engine with a flat plate. (Also in pics) This saved space and made running throttle cables and fuel lines a bit easier. It also reduced the amount of vibration transmitted to the plane by reducing the leverage (overall length) of the engine.

When it was all said and done I used the JAG prop mounting shaft and Wackerengines muffler and mount-plate. In the future I will purchase my parts from wacker. (for simplicity). Total price for conversion parts 52.00

Performance:
So far the engine has been a great performer with one exception. On my first experimental flight with the Sukhoi my engine was severely out of tune and my plane was also extremely tail heavy. (But the engine did not quit) It continued to run and keep me in the air until I could decide on how best to land the plane.

Prop: 18x6-10
RPM: 7100

Lessons Learned:
When tuning the engine let it run for at least five minutes at low medium and high throttle settings to check for proper engine performance. Also balance the plane better.

aero nut

Hey converts! just to let you know for performance I use an APC 18x6W prop and my tach readings are 8100 rpm with excellent pull on my 80" 14 lbs ryan's rebel, This is at sea level, with a fully gutted muffler, a 1/4 " aluminum spacer plate for the carb and the venturi opend at .400", I use medium unleaded gas mixed with Mobil's MX2T oil at a 50:1 ratio all of the engines that I've converted myself give this kind of reading,
I was using a 16x8 APC pattern prop and was getting around 8700 rpm's but limited on performance when I ordered the 18x6 prop through hobby people they got me the 18x6W which is designed for 3D performance, try this prop you will like the big difference in your engine's performance